[dlublink]

Hello,

I purchased a used Toyota Matrix Base 2006 model with a standard transmission a couple of years ago. It came with power locks, but no keyless entry.

I did some research, and I posted to a forum a few years ago and I asked about adding the door control receiver module. Someone replied to me and mentioned that the door control receiver module was definitely not on my car, and at the time it was unknown whether or not the wiring harness was present. Unfortunately, I can't find this thread again, so I can't reference it.

2 weeks ago, my brother-in-law mentioned to me that there was a pull-your-own-parts junk yard not far from here ( because of the rule against advertising I won't include a link to the junk yard nor mention it's name, that it was called 'Kenny-U-Pull' ).

**NOTE : I disconnected the battery of the car before touching any wires***

I went to the junk yard and pulled a door controller receiver module from an old matrix. Here is a photo of the module, with the circuit board removed from the casing.

Here is the module I pulled :

http://i.imgur.com/RzuZvao.jpg


I tested the module on my wife's car ( Toyota Corolla 2007 ) and it was in perfect working order.

I pulled the plug ( it's called the ID-8 connector ) and here is what it looked like :

http://i.imgur.com/596Ruyb.jpg


As you can see, pins 8, 10 and 13 are empty. These are 3 of the 4 pins needed to connect the door controller receiver module into the integrated relay.

My brother-in-law was a mechanic, and he looked up the pin outs for those three pins for me ( link not posted because copyright ). He said that :

Pin 1 on the "D6" connector ( not shown, it's the one that goes into the door control receiver ) must be grounded
Pin 2 on the "D6" connector connects to pin 8 on the ID-8 connector ( see my pic )
Pin 3 on the "D6" connector connects to pin 10 on the ID-8 connector
Pin 4 is empty
Pin 5 on the "D6" connector connects to the pin 13 on the ID-13 connector.

Using spare wiring I pulled from the junk yard matrix, I was able to wire up a connector that would let me connect my door controller receiver to the integration relay :

( low quality image, sorry )

http://i.imgur.com/s4FVIlP.jpg


I used the same technique for splicing the wires as my mechanic did when he added the trailer to my car. I stripped about 1/2 inch of each wire put them together, twisted them together, bent them down against the insulation and covered it in electrical tape ( a mechanic's marrette )


I tested the 4 pins and they worked perfectly ( less than 1 ohm of resistance from one connector to the other ).


Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of the ID-8 connector after I modified it, but imagine pins 8,10 and 13 are now filled.

I connected everything, and it did not work. This behaviour was expected and was documented in a thread by hardtopte72 in 2016-11-21 ( http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2006-ce-factory-power-locks.html#post11849458 ).

He mentioned that the integration relay that came with the car is not compatible with the keyless entry and that one would have to change the relay in order to get it to work. He also mentioned that nobody had done it.... yet!

He was also right that it would take a lot of work to add the keyless entry.


But I did not give up, I kept going.


On my Toyota Matrix 2006, the integrated relay part number is 82641-02161. It did NOT support keyless remotes. ( http://i.imgur.com/vxbC85g.jpg )


So I went to the junk yard today to get an integration relay. After spending about 2 hours pulling one out of a Matrix 2004 ( along with the JB panel ), I looked up the part number and found out that the integration relay I pulled only works with the 2003 and 2004 model. Fortunately I discovered this BEFORE connecting it to my car. ( Here is the JB Panel and relay I pulled that were bad : http://i.imgur.com/dFdZrZQ.jpg ) ( the part number of the incompatible relay was 82641-01010 )

I don't think I really needed the JB Panel because I can see the pins are present on my car :

http://i.imgur.com/Beognio.jpg


Despite some set backs, here is me having a great time working on this project :

http://i.imgur.com/60D2H2m.jpg

Working on the JB Panel, I found this interesting connector :

http://i.imgur.com/xol9YWT.jpg

A few years ago I learned that when working with elecricity in a car, yellow connectors meant 'air bags'. This connector was on the JB Panel and was a real pain in the ass to remove. Once I saw this connector, I decided that I would not replaced the JB Panel because I did NOT want to risk compromising the airbags.

Here is the organ donor that had the correct integration relay on the outside.

http://i.imgur.com/AbJf7Z1.jpg

Somebody's post on the net said I should disassemble the dashboard completely to reach the module. Here is me having removed the upper portion:

http://i.imgur.com/lAgYj6F.jpg

Here is the first shot of the relay I was trying to salvage ( low resolution ) :

http://i.imgur.com/x2vSjxZ.jpg

The junk yard I went to had a strict 'no vandalism' policy. I didn't want to take any risks, so I was really really careful. Taking apart the dashboard of this car was a real pain in the ass, because I took it apart with the same love and attention I give to me own car.

It took me about 2-3 hours to take it apart.

I hit a huge wall, after I removed the air bag from the steering wheel, I was unable to remove the steering wheel. The steering wheel had locked ( not in the correct position ) and the keys were not in the car. Not being able to remove the wheel, I could not finish disassembling the dashboard ( not without doing any damage to the lower dashboard. ).

At this point I was mildly discouraged because I couldn't get the relay out. But then I realized that when I took the covers off of the steering wheel column, it actually exposed the relay really well. Using 2 flat screwdrivers ( one for gentle prying and one for unclipping the clips, I managed to get the integration relay removed, and I didn't damage a single piece ( other than a small amount of scratching on the plastic casing of the relay. ) But nothing else was damaged, therefore I had followed the rules of the junk yard ( or at least my obsessive interpretation of them ).

Here is me holding the white relay, you can clearly see it is part number 82641-02151 :

http://i.imgur.com/dtRtRxy.jpg


When I went to install the relay in my car, using experience from the junk yard, I decided to only remove the compartment in front of the relay and the steering wheel column. I lied down in the most uncomfortable way possible in my car, and managed to gently pry out the old relay I wanted to replace. HEre is the 'new' and 'old' relays side by side :

http://i.imgur.com/aITmQ5F.jpg


I connected the white relay and reconnected the ground to the negative terminal of the battery.

I got in my car, and I used the programming activation sequence :

1. Open car door
2. Insert and remove key from contact twice ( without turning key )
3. Close & Open door twice
4. Insert and remove key from contact once ( without turning key )
5. Close & Open door twice
6. Insert key
7. Close door
8. Turn key to on and back to off, and remove key.

As I removed the key, the locks in the car cycled indicating it entered add mode to program the fobs.

I was really excited, it worked!!!

Went back to the junk yard, and asked if they had remotes. They had a HUGE box with several hundred remotes, after a lot of digging ( reminiscint of digging through a lego box, but with keyless remotes ), I found two toyota remotes. ( interestingly there were a LOT of remotes for american cars but only 2 lot for Toyota )

They aren't identical, one says 'hold with a picture of a trunk' the other says 'hatch'. The remotes were quite filthy, so I had to clean them. I disassembled them, removed the electronic components and cleaned out the remotes with a Lysol disinfecting wipe I got from Costco.

Now the remotes look like they are in very good shape :

http://i.imgur.com/euBeI7b.jpg


I redid the sequence to program, ( using two turns in step 8 to get to 'replace' mode ) and programmed the keyless remotes.

I tested both, all three buttons work on both remotes. Even opening the hatch works flawlessly!

Test video

The entire project probably took me 10-12 hours ( which is a lot ). If I were an experienced mechanic, it may have been less. If I had used a 3rd party keyless entry system, it probably would have been less. But I wanted factory remotes! I don't like having non-oem mods on my car ( radio/subwoofer excluded ).

So thanks to this forum for having so much information about how to work on the car. Thanks to my bro-in-law for getting me information that I would not be able to access not being a mechanic. Thanks to hardtopte72 for listing the components needed to do the job.

I paid :

1. Integration relay : 3$
2. Door controller Receiver : 3$
3. Wires that I recovered from the car : 8$
4. Keyless remotes - They were given to me free ( not 5 fingered discount, they were actually free )
5. 6$ entry fee ( 2 x 3$, I went twice )

Excluding time and travel costs, the total cost was 14$.

It took a lot of time, but it wasn't just about the remotes, it was about learning about my car. I like taking things apart and seeing how they work. As you can see from some of the pictures I got to take apart a dashboard!! I also got to see how my car works.

It was a lot of fun!

Thanks!


tl;dr;

I replaced the integration relay ( 82641-02161 ) on my Toyota Matrix 2006 with another integration relay ( 82641-02151 ). I modified the ID-8 connector to run wires to a D6 connector. I plugged the D6 connector into the Door Controller Receiver module I got. I obtained 2 keyless entry remotes, programmed the whole thing. I now have 'OEM' keyless remotes on a car that wasn't supposed to support it. It 20$ for all the parts because I pulled them out of cars at a junk yard myself.


:nono: by TrailDust

p.p.s I did not run the wire all the way to the trunk ( too much work ). I put the model behind the driver's kick panel.

 

[dlublink]

If anyone is wondering what Traildust removed from my post, it was a p.s..

So here is a rewrite of the PS without breaking any rules :

PS I posted this in case some future reader is looking for information about how to add remotes, that way they can see that :

1. It has been done
2. It's a LOT of work
3. The part numbers I used and wiring I used to get it to work.

 

[hardtopte72]

If anyone is wondering what Traildust removed from my post, it was a p.s..

So here is a rewrite of the PS without breaking any rules :

PS I posted this in case some future reader is looking for information about how to add remotes, that way they can see that :

1. It has been done
2. It's a LOT of work
3. The part numbers I used and wiring I used to get it to work.

Absolutely amazing work.

Thanks for posting.

In reference to the wiring you made from ID8 to D6, where did the wiring run? Was it along the floor, side, headliner?

Edit: I read the xkcd post and understand what you meant. The frustration is real sometimes.

Also I will be adding this to the DIY sticky.

 

[dlublink]

In reference to the wiring you made from ID8 to D6, where did the wiring run? Was it along the floor, side, headliner?

When I disassembled the matrix at the junk yard, I followed the wire. It starts at the JB Panel, goes down under the plastic cover at the bottom of the driver's door. It crosses under the carpet in the back row of seats and up the into the rear right wall of the trunk.

The issue I had was that the cables were taped together to the door locks, door sensors and electric window bundle and so I just clipped the connector at each end and spliced them together with a very short cable.

My install was a LOT lazier. I simply stuck the receiver module behind the driver kick panel.

 

[Cressidaadr]

Very impressive! :welcome:. You knocked this one out of the park. Way to hang in there, read, research, and not give up to soon. The results speak for themselves.

However, I think I need to know what part of the country or state you are located at, because I may be driving over to your place for some more pointers shortly. :wink:

 

[dlublink]

Very impressive! :welcome:. You knocked this one out of the park. Way to hang in there, read, research, and not give up to soon. The results speak for themselves.

Thanks! I appreciate that. Most people don't appreciate the effort: "all that for remotes? Just buy a new car" or "it's just keyless entry".

I actually did try and install a third party remote a couple of years ago, and it never actually worked. What's worse, is the instructions had me tap into the wires coming the buttons on the door. The issue is that on my Toyota, if the door is locked from the outside or if the door is locked for more than 1 minute, the unlock/lock buttons on the doors are disabled. I quickly abandoned the project, because I realized that using a 3rd party device meant disabling/overriding security features on the car. I didn't want to do that. I remember when my wife asked for a remote start, the job involved leaving a key in the car to bypass the engine's immobilizer. Security is there for a reason, and should never be bypassed. I decided I would use OEM parts or not add remotes. So I put the key project aside because of the cost of the door control receiver ( 400$+ ), plus the cost of the remotes. When I learned about the local 'pull your own parts and pay' junk yard, I realized that the project suddenly became affordable.

Using new OEM parts would have cost close to 1000$. Pulling the parts myself from the junkyard cost me about 20$ for all the parts.

When I bought the car, I installed a cruise control on the car. The local garage ( not dealership ) wanted about 500$ for the job. I did some research and discovered that all I needed was the cruise control lever and the clutch safety button. The car's computer already had the cruise control programmed in and the light was already on the dash and the wiring was present. It cost me about 70$ to install the cruise control myself. I called back the local garage and told them their 500$ cost was completely ridiculous, and they explained they didn't use the OEM cruise control, but installed a completely separate system. Which meant they would be modifying the car much more than I was comfortable with. Bypassing the car's computer and opening/closing gas valve using a separate system, seems like a recipie to seriously screw up the onboard computer. I think this really drove home 'do it the OEM' way. Other than the car radio ( which Toyota sucks at making ), I now have a policy that all "mods" must be OEM.

because I may be driving over to your place for some more pointers shortly. :wink:

If you want some pointers, I think what I've learned is :

1. Do-it-yourself junk yards are a gold mine, there are so many parts you can get for cheap.
2. When repairing, adding or changing things on a Toyota ( other than the stereo ), do it the Toyota way where possible.
3. All the information can be found on the Internet, but sometimes it can be all over the place, and sometimes you just have to be patient with searching
4. Patience/stubbornness is so important
5. When someone else works on my car, I always watch how they do things ( this is how I learned how to do a 'mechanic's marrette ).
5a. Some mechanics get annoyed when watching, so sometimes I tell them that I just find it really interesting or I ask questions showing that I am interested in learning and that I do in fact trust them with my car.
6. Friends, who are mechanics, are usually willing to give you pointers ( I chatted with mine over facebook messenger ), but my mechanic's motivation to help me seemed directly proportional to how much effort I put into it. If I had asked 'how do I add keyless remotes?' he would have said "i don't know" or "look it up" or simply not replied. Instead I asked questions like "I accidentally forgot to note the positions of the 3 connectors in the ID-8 connector for the wireless entry system, do you know where the pins go?" He replied to me with the wiring diagram for the ID-8 /D6/door control receiver connector in about 2-3 minutes. I think it's the same for forums, the more effort you put into the job, and the more detail you give in the question, the more likely people are to help you out. ( It's the same in IT, and probably the same in other fields as well ).
6a. Also, 'please' and 'thank you' in all interactions with people seems to make people more willing to be helpful.
7. When dealing with eletrical components in cars, flexibility and gentleness is usually the most helpful thing
7a. When dealing with mechanical parts on the car, there is often a lot more brute force involved.

However, I think I need to know what part of the country or state you are located at

If you do drive to Quebec, I've got some cold beer ( also rum and coke ) and would love to chat about our cars over beer.

 

[smittyjones]

So ID-8 is the one on the relay integration module, D6 is the one on the door controller receiver that was on the C pillar yeah?

D6 pin 1 you just grounded to the chassis with an eyelet?
D6 pin 2 is pin 8 at the integration module
D6 pin 3 is pin 10 on the integration module
D6 pin 5 is pin 13 on the ID-13? What's the ID-13? Or is that supposed to be ID-8?

On this picture: http://i.imgur.com/596Ruyb.jpg - Pin 8 is bottom left, 10 is 2 more pins in, and 13 is the open hole 3 in from the top right? This - https://i.imgur.com/6UpYqWz.png - is the only thing I've found of that plug, but it sadly doesn't tell me what the pinout is, just that picture. That seems to be flipped upside down from what I'm gathering from your post though.

If I'm reading this right, I just have to splice some wires, swap the integration relay, plug in the receiver, and program the keys?

Do you know if the car will still run without the integration relay? It looks like it just controls door locks, so it should yeah? Because if I have to cut the connector off of the donor car at the integration relay, it will still have to run.

edit: So just FYI, it will start and run without the relay box, everything works except door locks.

 

[smittyjones]

So I got it to work! Nice!

It works great, except there's no beep when locking/unlocking. It's mounted up on the firewall, so I hope that doesn't cause interference and limit my range. I might have to run longer wires and mount it in the factory C pillar location.

Couple notes: On the wire where OP says pin 13 of ID-13, which connects to pin 5 of the receiver connector, he really does mean pin 13 of ID-8. ID-8 is the connector on top of the fuse box, far driver side. Take out the little "garage door opener cubby" and you can see it, it's far left on top of the connector. You can see the black thing, I pushed up with a small screwdriver and it popped open and out. The knee bolster on these cars is all one piece, from door jamb to door jamb, behind the HVAC controls and everything. Not coming out. But I managed to lay on my back and pop out the integrated relays from both cars with minimal issue.

Here's my wiring, and the little cheat sheet I made. I obviously didn't just happen to have the correct colors, so I made this to keep it clear. https://i.imgur.com/pHRoqVT.jpg

And muh fob - https://i.imgur.com/ZgcnBI1.jpg

 

[hardtopte72]

I did the same swap but did the more painstaking job of pulling and swapping the entire ID8 harness and adding it to my car. Since I also added the map light mirror, I also pulled that harness at the same time.

Living in Florida, I had a heck of a time getting the in dash connectors out. I also had a really hard time removing the integration relay. Someone should really make a video on the easy/proper way to remove it. In the end, I ended up removing the rear seat, driver's seat, driver side b pillar trim, and passenger side c pillar trim.

I soldered or snapped in all connections. I now also have a good portion of the interior harness from an 05 LE.

 

[smittyjones]

I did the same swap but did the more painstaking job of pulling and swapping the entire ID8 harness and adding it to my car. Since I also added the map light mirror, I also pulled that harness at the same time.

Living in Florida, I had a heck of a time getting the in dash connectors out. I also had a really hard time removing the integration relay. Someone should really make a video on the easy/proper way to remove it. In the end, I ended up removing the rear seat, driver's seat, driver side b pillar trim, and passenger side c pillar trim.

I soldered or snapped in all connections. I now also have a good portion of the interior harness from an 05 LE.

Nice. My donor had to be able to drive away, so I couldn't get too crazy and my time with it was limited (it was going to the auction).

The integration relay wasn't bad, I just wiggled down there on my back and used a small screwdriver to loosen the tabs up, then reached through the cubby with my other hand and pushed them all down. Tight fit, but it made it. I had the hardest time with the ID8 connector, there wasn't a lot of slack in those wires to be able to get the new terminals around the back of it.

 

[hardtopte72]

Nice. My donor had to be able to drive away, so I couldn't get too crazy and my time with it was limited (it was going to the auction).

The integration relay wasn't bad, I just wiggled down there on my back and used a small screwdriver to loosen the tabs up, then reached through the cubby with my other hand and pushed them all down. Tight fit, but it made it. I had the hardest time with the ID8 connector, there wasn't a lot of slack in those wires to be able to get the new terminals around the back of it.

Makes sense. I ended up unbolting tha entire relay harness block to allow me much better access to the connector. I wanted it to be as factory as possible so I ran the wires up the same way they came for the factory harness.

You should put a new batteries in your remotes (if you haven't already) and check your range limits. When my battery was dying, the range was terrible. Now, it's pretty good, about the same as my Sequoia. I'm curious about your range with the receiver mounted where yours is as opposed to the passenger side C pillar.

 

[75aces]

This is really cool. By the way, and I have been wondering about this for quite some time. My 06 xrs doesn't have an audible beep when arming or disarming the system. The panic alarm does work. Was this an add on to the original keyless immobilizer system that was installed at TOP? Thanks.

 

[smittyjones]

This is really cool. By the way, and I have been wondering about this for quite some time. My 06 xrs doesn't have an audible beep when arming or disarming the system. The panic alarm does work. Was this an add on to the original keyless immobilizer system that was installed at TOP? Thanks.

I don't know about the immobilizer part. It has the security light by the dimmer switch, idk what it does though. The car never had any sort of keyless entry before, I don't even think it was an option on a CE.

 

[ato2004]

Hi,
First time posting. But I decided to write this to warn those who would choose to follow the directions here and add the factory keyless to their base model.

Strangely, no one mentioned that the wiring to emergency lights (HAZ) (for flashing lights during transmitter operation) and horn (for the panic button and maybe the alarm - still not sure) will be missing. It is so on my 2008 corolla CE. Luckily they didn't screw up the J/B. But otherwise, they trimmed off all the "unnecessary" wiring. They even came up with a "disabled" version of the Integration Relay for US customers! When I was buying the car a couple months ago I was positive that it's remote was simply missing and the wireless hardware was there. So I went ahead and bought a fob right away. Countless times trying to enter programming mode and it didn't work. Then I learned what I was dealing with. I could not imagine a car made in 2007 (and even sooner) not having a keyless entry. My 1998 corolla had a remote and every car I owned after that had a fob, so this was a complete surprise to me. My question is - why would they do this? No sunroof - fine, no leather or power seats - fine, no intermittent wipers, cruise control or remote trunk release - fine too; but how do you make one open and close their door with a key in the 21st century?

Anyway, today I installed a new integration relay (IR) that had keyless capability and a wireless door control unit. I want to thank all those who posted here and helped me find my way in the darkness. The remote keyless does work, but guess what's not working!? No flashing light confirmation (or chirping) upon fob operation and no horn sound when pushing the panic button.

Well, had to dive up underneath the dash again, pull everything apart - and yes! My concerns are confirmed - no wiring in between. The I11 IR connector pin number 25 (I11-25 or 25(A)) should send a signal to the turn signal flasher relay for the lights to flash when locking and unlocking. Same story with the horn but here we have another pin - number 10. Now I have to find the right terminals and make more wires.

 

[smittyjones]

Hi,

Strangely, no one mentioned that the wiring to emergency lights (HAZ) (for flashing lights during transmitter operation) and horn (for the panic button and maybe the alarm - still not sure) will be missing.

If I remember right, some of the wires that come from the wireless door lock receiver include the horn and the flasher signal. Or maybe yours just has a different package. I've seen some people say the base models lack even more of the required stuff.

I'm glad you got it working though, and glad we could send some help!

 

[hardtopte72]

2003-2008 Corolla/Matrix models factory equipped with keyless entry do not chirp on lock/unlock.

My 2005 CE which I swapped LE integration relay, door control receiver (DCR), and DCR harness to does sound the horn on panic and flash the lights for lock and unlock. Odd they would remove more wires from a 2008 model.

Was your car prewired for fog lights (check fog relay slot in fusebox for wiring pins or behind front bumper fog light covers for loose fog light connectors)?

 

[phaze3131]

I'm wondering if you know which orientation I should hold it in order to count from left to right for the pin numbers on the receiver, thanks much

 

[smittyjones]

I'm wondering if you know which orientation I should hold it in order to count from left to right for the pin numbers on the receiver, thanks much

It's been a grip since I did this, so I don't recall off the top of my head. But here is the connector on top of the fuse box:

http://imgur.com/aPAQb0h

When you hold the connector, facing toward you (like the image above), with the little clip on the top, pin #1 (the ground in this case) will be on the left. Often, there is a number on the face of it if you look really closely.

 

[phaze3131]

It's been a grip since I did this, so I don't recall off the top of my head. But here is the connector on top of the fuse box:

http://imgur.com/aPAQb0h

When you hold the connector, facing toward you (like the image above), with the little clip on the top, pin #1 (the ground in this case) will be on the left. Often, there is a number on the face of it if you look really closely.

thank you so much for the help and trying to remember, I'm really sorry but I am lost a little bit. so that image is the ID-8 connector (that goes into the fuse box?) When I hold the receiver which has 5 pins I'm just not sure which way to hold it to start counting from 1 to 5 ya know.

Also I have to say I have no clue how any of you removed the relay from the fusebox while under the steering wheel. There is an inside hook that seems impossible to undo (the ones on the outside seem easy enough. There is no access to it because to move the clip outwards to release it would mean punching through the fusebox from the direction of the roof of the car to the floor.

 

[smittyjones]

thank you so much for the help and trying to remember, I'm really sorry but I am lost a little bit. so that image is the ID-8 connector (that goes into the fuse box?) When I hold the receiver which has 5 pins I'm just not sure which way to hold it to start counting from 1 to 5 ya know.

Oh sorry, I wasn't really clear what I was talking about and I guess the ID8 connector wasn't really relevant at all lol.

As you're holding the connector for the receiver, the clip should be on top, #1 should be on the left, #5 on the right.

Kinda like yay:

So the actual receiver box would be the opposite to match this, #1 would be at the top of the connector in the picture you posted.