[degree451]

Was about to change the rear brake pads on my gf's 2000 solara and one of the wheel nuts won't come off. Its clearly been forced onto the stud incorrectly and stripped. I can't get the nut to go all the way back on either! I'm not sure it was all the way on to begin with. She just got new tires from Discount Tires so they clearly are the ones who have stripped it.

Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to start something that's going to take 2 weeks to finish and numerous runs to the parts store and OEM:

1) Is it safe to drive around with one of the nuts not fully engaged?
2) Should I force this nut off and replace the entire set of nuts?
3) Should I replace the stud in addition to #2?
3.1) If yes, does anyone have a link to a guide on this because its not in the manual.
3.2) Does the entire hub have to come off the car to accomplish this?
3.2.1) Does the o-ring have to be replaced if the hub is taken off? Do I need to repack the bearing if the hub comes off?
4) The Haynes service manual indicates that the hub is NOT serviceable and should be completely replaced if found defective. Should I replace the entire hub or is it simple enough to replace just a single stud?

 

[ajkalian]

Was about to change the rear brake pads on my gf's 2000 solara and one of the wheel nuts won't come off. Its clearly been forced onto the stud incorrectly and stripped. I can't get the nut to go all the way back on either! I'm not sure it was all the way on to begin with. She just got new tires from Discount Tires so they clearly are the ones who have stripped it.

Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to start something that's going to take 2 weeks to finish and numerous runs to the parts store and OEM:

1) Is it safe to drive around with one of the nuts not fully engaged?
2) Should I force this nut off and replace the entire set of nuts?
3) Should I replace the stud in addition to #2?
3.1) If yes, does anyone have a link to a guide on this because its not in the manual.
3.2) Does the entire hub have to come off the car to accomplish this?
3.2.1) Does the o-ring have to be replaced if the hub is taken off? Do I need to repack the bearing if the hub comes off?
4) The Haynes service manual indicates that the hub is NOT serviceable and should be completely replaced if found defective. Should I replace the entire hub or is it simple enough to replace just a single stud?

1) Yes it is safe, be sure the other 4 are torqued to specs and keep it under 90mph
2) Yes, get it off, and it might be a good idea to replace all of them on all wheels.
3) Yes, replace the stud along with the nuts as above:
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy154/akalian_01/wheel_stud.jpg
3.1) Unscrew the nut to the end of the stud, and bang it out with a hammer.
3.2) No
3.21) No
4) No to the hub, yes to the stud

Here's how to do it with limited tools:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ur-wheel-studs-parking-lot-limited-tools.html

Here's a link to all of the stickied DIY's in case you want to tackle something else.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...irst-comprehensive-list-gen-3-4-info-diy.html

Good luck

.

 

[Dave's]

If you take it back to Discount Tire they may replace them for you. My wife had a flat changed by an AAA mechanic who used a pneumatic wrench to over-tighten them and the first one I tried to remove stripped. They had me take it to whomever I wanted and all were replaced. Think it cost something like $25 which AAA reimbursed. I've replaced a few myself over the years for family/friends and could have done it but since it had only been a few days there was good evidence it was their fault.

 

[CrystalMethod]

1) yes it is safe, be sure the other 4 are torqued to specs and keep it under 90mph
2) yes, get it off, and it might be a good idea to replace all of them on all wheels.
3) yes, replace the stud along with the nuts as above:
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy154/akalian_01/wheel_stud.jpg
3.1) unscrew the nut to the end of the stud, and bang it out with a hammer.
3.2) no
3.21) no
4) no to the hub, yes to the stud

here's how to do it with limited tools:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ur-wheel-studs-parking-lot-limited-tools.html

here's a link to all of the stickied diy's in case you want to tackle something else.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...irst-comprehensive-list-gen-3-4-info-diy.html

good luck

.

+1

 

[importcar]

This happened to me recently at Costco. They stripped 2 studs and lug nuts with their pneumatic wrench and blamed it on me for using cheap lug nuts. It's bad enough they didn't apologize but to blame it on the customer to cover their ass was cowardly. They let me drive off without one lug nut on the front wheel and they didn't tell me about the other nut that they forced onto another stud. When I tried to remove the forced nut with my breaker bar I ended up tearing the stud in half with the broken half stuck inside the nut. Fortunately I was able to replace the studs myself and it cost under $10 for the parts (2 new studs and 2 lug nuts).

 

[Mike Gerber]

It is probably not necessary to replace all the studs and nuts; only the one that was probably cross threaded and then forced on with the impact wrench.

As mentioned above, if the tires were replaced recently, I would take the car back to that shop and let them deal with it since they are the most liklely cuplrits. If they claim they didn't do this, and it's only 1 stud and nut that needs replacing, I would use the links provided and just do the job myself. It's really not too difficult.

Mike

 

[degree451]

Thanks for all the info guys. I got the locked nut off with a breaker bar and a 3ft 1’”steel black pipe that I slipped over it to extend the bar and make it super easy to turn. The stud wound up shearing off right behind the lug nut. Once I had the brake caliper and rotor off It was extremely easy to knock the broken stud out with a small sledge hammer and putting the new stud on was way easier a job than I had thought. I wound up buying the breaker bar and two torque wrenches so I could have peace of mind that certain nuts were tightened correctly. If I didn’t have to buy that basic stuff it literally would have only cost about $8-9 dollars for a new stud and some lug nuts to replace the broken ones. So if you’re reading this and already have those items its dirt cheap and in retrospect I was silly of me to be freaking out over this so much