[pker]

when im making turns or approaching bumps, it always making noises under my hood.
and i go to an auto reapair, a guy told me that the strut mounts have to be replaced
i bought it from ebay for $70sth
does anyone knows how to get it replace?
thanks in advance

 

[pdq]

You need to jack up the car, remove the entire strut assembly from the car, compress the coils using a spring compressor, replace the mount, decompress the coils, and reinstall the assembly. When removing/reinstalling, I believe you have to disconnect the brake line clip so the hose will release from the strut, and possibly disconnect ABS as well if you have that. Also, the two large bolts are torqued to around 150 ft pounds, so you need a breaker bar or impact to get them off.

The Haynes manual has a full description. Depending on your experience and tool set, you may want to get a shop to do it.

It's a lot of labor for a cheap part.

 

[Buurin]

You need to jack up the car, remove the entire strut assembly from the car, compress the coils using a spring compressor, replace the mount, decompress the coils, and reinstall the assembly. When removing/reinstalling, I believe you have to disconnect the brake line clip so the hose will release from the strut, and possibly disconnect ABS as well if you have that. Also, the two large bolts are torqued to around 150 ft pounds, so you need a breaker bar or impact to get them off.

The Haynes manual has a full description. Depending on your experience and tool set, you may want to get a shop to do it.

It's a lot of labor for a cheap part.

Front is 203 ft-pounds. Make it impact, cheater bar, and your legs.

 

[pker]

thx buddy
but i dun think i can do it by myself its just too complicated for me
n i have been to an auto shop, they are charging me$50 to get it done
is it expensive? i havent replaced the mounts yet

 

[Crowbar911]

I had to use a 14 foot pipe on top of a 3/8 inch ratchet.

and im a 250 lb guy and was hanging from the bar and then it broke. Thats with a hour or 2 or PB blaster.

 

[zuuma]

I had to use a 14 foot pipe on top of a 3/8 inch ratchet.

and im a 250 lb guy and was hanging from the bar and then it broke. Thats with a hour or 2 or PB blaster.

WOW! what broke? wrench or bolt?

I know that necessity drives technique on repair jobs, but I wouldn't tackle a strut job without air tools.
Props for going for it, though!:chug:
If you have to use hand tools, try some heat on the bolt first. Even a propane torch will eventually warm it up to a mild red glow. Then spray some PB blaster into the threads & bolt head area. It will smoke a bit, but capillary action (like sweat soldering) will suck some of it into where it needs to go.
The heat will also expand the bolt a little, causing the rust bond to break.

Lastly, the best hand tool to break the big bolts free would be a Hex, box end wrench of decent quality (SK, Snap-on, etc), then hit it hard with a BFH -- at least a 1lb hammer. Sort of like a slow-motion impact:thumbsup:
That works pretty well, too.

I just use a 1/2" drive CP impact gun. Pops the big bolts right off.

 

[Buurin]

WOW! what broke? wrench or bolt?

I know that necessity drives technique on repair jobs, but I wouldn't tackle a strut job without air tools.
Props for going for it, though!:chug:
...

Lastly, the best hand tool to break the big bolts free would be a Hex, box end wrench of decent quality (SK, Snap-on, etc), then hit it hard with a BFH -- at least a 1lb hammer. Sort of like a slow-motion impact:thumbsup:
That works pretty well, too.

I just use a 1/2" drive CP impact gun. Pops the big bolts right off.

I have a 7.5A electric impact. Bought it couple years before my air compressor, but I don't see the need to buy another impact again, given that my air compressor don't put out that much at 90psi. Have used it to change the front struts before having to send the rear to a shop for the pesky sway bar link. Oh my impact kit has an impact driver that I can just pound directly on. Never used it tho.

CP is what brand?

I installed a Hotchkis front sway bar myself last week and I had to use cheater bar because I can't jack my car high enough for the impact to go in.

 

[zuuma]

CP = Chicago Pneumatic
Mine is 15 years old.
Other than the black handle, much like this one

I think that's where I bought it back then, too.
Works great! 450 lbs reverse torque.

 

[modestobulldog]

I posted my experience at strut replacement

Front:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166910

Rear:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171852

Good luck! Take your time, be safe.

 

[zuuma]

I posted my experience at strut replacement

Front:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166910

Rear:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171852

Good luck! Take your time, be safe.

Outstanding instructions!
I would add 2 things:
1) the following site has always been the low bidder (or very close) for KYB struts: http://www.summitracing.com/
The ship quickly & cheaply & I don't recall ever having a screwed up order.

2) If you're going KYB ( a personal favorite for the money of mine), consider spending a little of that saved labor-rate money on AGX vs. the GR-2s.

They are adjustable from a wee bit softer than stock, to loose dental work after 2 miles. No, you're probably not going to an autocross race this weekend, but they are incredibly easy to adjust. Allowing for a 1 minute per-strut adjustment time is generous. It's surprising how nice it is to be able to "tune" your ride. Long freeway trip? tighten it up. New, huge wheels? adjust it. Potholes on the work commute? Soften the attack. Rear end sink and front end lift on acceleration? 1 click on just the rear keeps everything level.
No lowering spring scrapes & hassles. No goofy camber plates. Just easy.

The bad: If you run them with lowering springs, they die very young. Also, if you run them on maximum stiffness all the time, they die after a year.
fortunately, once you've tried the max setting - just for fun - you'll NEVER use it again.