Strut Mount
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Yes you will need alignment. ANY TIME YOU REPLACE/OR TAKE OUT ANY SUSPENSION PART(EXPECT SHOCKS) or Steering parts like Tie rods or the rack;.
Would state no.
Toe is the only adjustment possible without using special camber adjustment bolts, adjustable strut mount plates or unbolting and moving around the suspension parts in hopes of getting proper alignment. Most shops will not perform this tasks unless you get on them about it.
Toe should not be effected by a strut mount change.
After you replace the mounts drive the car. If it steers straight and does not pull to one side you should be OK.
Toe is the only adjustment possible without using special camber adjustment bolts, adjustable strut mount plates or unbolting and moving around the suspension parts in hopes of getting proper alignment. Most shops will not perform this tasks unless you get on them about it.
Toe should not be effected by a strut mount change.
After you replace the mounts drive the car. If it steers straight and does not pull to one side you should be OK.
Thanks for your replies guys!
My Steering wheel is not straight with respect to the wheel right now. So i was planning on getting the alingment first and then do the mounts later. I also had my front and rear bushing and front end-links replaced. Car feels tighter at corners now but there is a squeaking noise whenever I hit speed bumps. It can't be heard at other times.
My Steering wheel is not straight with respect to the wheel right now. So i was planning on getting the alingment first and then do the mounts later. I also had my front and rear bushing and front end-links replaced. Car feels tighter at corners now but there is a squeaking noise whenever I hit speed bumps. It can't be heard at other times.
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I would get the strut mounts done now and then get the alignment. As long as you are planning on getting the alignment done, do all the suspension work first.
Mike
Mike
i agree. having done alignments for years, i can say that there's up to 0.7* of camber adjustment in many strut assemblies. do the mounts first then do alignment.
Toyomoho is correct that in theory you should be able to remove and replace struts without an alignment. However in the real world it is possible to get the alignment out of tolerence by working just on the struts. I know this to be true as I have done it. The best advice I can give you is to do the strut work first and then immediately the alignment. But, if you have good tires now and you think it may be a while before you do the struts, then get the alignment to prevent excessive wear to the tires. Then as Toyomoho says, see how it drives and decide on another alignment. Locally alignments are $39 for the Camry and I don't mind spending that if I have done any work on the front end.
in the event which your car does seem to pull off in a certain direction, you should also take into account the amount of wear on your tires. too much wear on the tires on one side of the car can cause it to drift off in another direction due to minute (pronounced "my-noot") differences in traction.
Been wondering this myself. With my engine having to be replaced, for now I can only get the bad strut replaced until I can get the cash to all the struts/springs. I've recently had my alignment done, and all the lateral control arms done. I do find I still pull to the left a wee bit. I know that my rear trailing arm bushings need to be replaced as they are a bit worn. Could this cause this condition?
You should replace both front or rear. Never just one strut unless you had a probelm with a relatively new one. If all four struts need repalcing do at least the end of the car with the worst struts and then do the other end as soon as you have the cash. If you have worn suspension parts they should be replaced also. Worn parts will prevent a good alignment, cause excessive tire wear, extra work for the struts, and can creat an unsafe situation.
Alignment problems due to tire wear is not due to a difference in traction under normal driving but rather a difference in diameter. One side is higher than the other. The crown of the road is a hugh factor also.
Alignment problems due to tire wear is not due to a difference in traction under normal driving but rather a difference in diameter. One side is higher than the other. The crown of the road is a hugh factor also.
No problem with wear on the tires at all. Just changed out the winter tires actually. As for replacing the strut was just going to grab one from the wreckers for now. It's just the one that's on it's last legs from the damn potholes. The rest of the suspension parts are fine and everything is nice and tight. Had it all gone over when I had the alignment done. [lateral control arms was where I had a problem] Engine obviously takes priority so suspension upgrade has to wait.
I guess I will do the Alignment for now and do the mounts at a later date. There is a little rattle on the front right side which i will have to bear for some more time. The steering wheel is not at all straight when the wheels are and it pulls to the right a little. Also I have this annoying squeaking whenever i go over speed bumps. I changed the sway bar bushings but that didn't help. Do I have to do the struts? Car has 140,XXX
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