So it seems like I read that ATF and an automatic transmission can handle having just water mixed in it by accident. But NOT if glycol is in the water? Or is it catastrophically bad to have just regular water in there too? Just wondering.
I don't know if you covered this before or not. But did you drive the car before you pulled the motor and trans to redo the flex plate? Or did you buy it that way? What I'm getting at, is/was this a good working transmission before all of the work? Basically, I'm trying to figure out if it's something you did, or if it was already on it's way out before you pulled it.Posting at a mile a minute here, I guess, but just checked my ATF samples in small yogurt cups where I was testing if you can tell ATF that has antifreeze mixed into it, by comparison to non-contaminated ATF. I thought, 'I can't see a difference, and who knows if Pa was out here and maybe switched them unintentionally' (since the labels weren't taped on.) So I dumped them both in the trash which was full of paper towels. Guess I should have dumped them in my waste oil jug though. : ( But anyway, at the bottom of one yogurt cup was the coolant I had mixed in. So it WAS separating back out, but then just staying on the bottom.
I am learning things you guys all have at instant recall already so hope you don't think I'm trying to tell everyone what is up. I am just posting this first to correct my earlier posted conclusion about it, and also more for the benefit of any duncehead newbies out there similar to myself. XD
Ok, did you add a quart or 2 of fluid to it right before you installed it? Just asking, as with most "new" converters, the rebuilder wants you to add some fluid to them before installing it into the car. I say that, because most converters will hold between 4 and 6 quarts of ATF by themselves.Yeah it was a working transmission, I had never noticed any problems with it. Including, the trans shifted okay in very cold weather right after starting.
I replaced the torque converter with a new one from AutoZone. I at least was able to verify that the gear inside of the new one would rotate only in one direction, as it is supposed to.
Unfortunately, it kind of sounds like it did. Even though the flex plate is on the outside, the torque converter drives the pump in the trans, That might be where any damage (internally) started.Before the flexplate broke, I remember my car shaking for like 15 seconds once while driving. Also found shavings (about 3/8'' long by 1/32" wide) at the bottom of the bellhousing, when I took it apart. So I guess my original TC was dying. Hope it didn't release a bunch of metal into my tranny before the flexplate finally went. = /
Yup, but I wasn't sure if he was willing to either pull the trans again, to go thru it, or work under it with it still in the car.try revving the engine to 2000 rpms for 30 seconds before driving to fill the converter and see if that helps.
it could also be with seals at the valve body and/or internal check valves.
No, not really. And you didn't see a lot of metal in the pan while you had it off (I saw the pics you posted). The shavings you saw in the bellhousing were probably from when the flex plate broke, and allowed the torque converter to move around too much, or were pieces of broken flex plate.This morning I unlooped the ATF cooler hoses so they actually go to the ATF cooler in the radiator. On purpose I let quite a bit run out of them since I expect my ATF level was still a bit high.
Just got back this evening from my 15-mile commute home from work, and the ATF is now right on the higher 'Hot' mark. So I guess you were right, Clone, that I had just overfilled it.
BTW thanks for the tip on the hydraulic clutch, never knew there was such a thing. I'll have to definitely look into that as well.
So shavings in the bellhousing and then the brief shaking that one time while driving, IIRC from reading around on the web they are both indicators of your Torque Converter going out, or having gone out.
But can your TC really go out w/o ever exhibiting problems in the shifting? Up until the failure to shift last week right after starting out on a pretty cold morning, it has always shifted flawlessly, both before the flexplate broke, and after I finally got it running again. Never a loss of torque or power trying to go up a hill, never any popping out of gear on its own, nothing.
I'd pick it up as a spare, just because you might need or could use a spare. It's one of those cases of "if I have it I won't need it" and "if I don't get it, I'll need it and can't find it". At least that's how my luck runs.Okay guys thanks for the info.
I'll look into those possibilities, JohnGD.
In the meantime it does shift okay 99 percent of the time so far. Just that one morning when it was 20 degrees F, that it wouldn't shift at first. Hopefully it won't keep happening.
Just for fun I may pull another A240L that is at the local PnP. Get started learning how to overhaul one.
It might be a case of needing to be exercized again. After all you had drained it, knocked it over off the blocks, and spent almost 6 months getting it all together so you could re-install it. Then you over filled it, and now it's being put to use again.This morning it was 15 degrees F, so when I first started out, I let off the gas a bit right where I thought it would do its first shift, a trick I have learn from delivering cars at my car auction job. Maybe that helped, because it seemed to shift okay this time, even though it was pretty cold. I guess I'll just have to see how it goes.