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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Installed a basic heat shield made from aluminum flashing in between the exhaust header and the wrapped low pressure AC hose...got another 3°F! At 40mph, 96°F ambient temp, 138°F under hood temp, I got 43°F below ambient! :D

I picked up a roll of shelf liner fer $6, doubled it over, and cut it out to match the dash mat. I'll go out fer a run later on today and see how much of an impact it will have. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Success!! Ambient temp of 102°F, under hood temp of 147°F, vent temp at 56°F with a slight cycling ±0.5°F during a drive of 20 minutes in stop and go city traffic at 40mph. :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
3/8" ID reinforced hose from Lowes fer $0.89/ft. I ended up with 5' just to make sure I would have enough to work with. ;)

Picked up the garden hose adapter fer the 3/8" hose from Tractor Supply fer $1.29 and two hose clamps fer $0.79 each. ;)
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/green-leaf-garden-hose-adapter-3-4-in-mght-x-3-8-in-barb
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...ess-steel-hose-clamp-5-8-in-to-3-4-in-id-hose

This setup will allow me to adapt the pump output to the misting setup. I run power directly to the pump and make the switch a ground based setup...that is the switch will control the ground fer the pump. I still need to figure out which direction to turn the adjustment screw to adjust the pump pressure switch so the pump isn't pumping out the full 100psi and drop it down to around 70psi. ;)

I'll have to hack the misting system apart and git the misting sprayers a little closer and then tuck the hose behind the grill facing the condenser. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
I insulated the remaining fat line from the right side of the condenser to the compressor. I'll find out tomorrow afternoon if it makes any noticeable difference or not. ;)
 

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Well, the A/C cleaning definitely seemed to freshen the air up a good bit coming out of the vents. However, it didn't seem to help with lowering/cooling the cabin air more than before.

However, this may be due to two things: 1) I get a good bit of foam out of the vents and my windshield will sometimes have condensation where the defrost vents are, even when it's not supposed to, and 2) I am quite sure I need to have the AC serviced as it probably has never had one. It's likely time to pull and restore the refrigerant and possibly replace the dryer.

I'm probably cooling a lot of the inside of the dash due to the deteriorated foam in the ducting. I may have to get under there and try and keep the air going where it's supposed to.

The A/C keeps up well unless it's very hot and in the sun, and then it's only adequate.

Yup...I think I may have to get it serviced, but I'll probably wait until the beginning of summer next year.
 
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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Got my misting kit in and immediately hacked it up from this...



...to this! ;)


I should be able to install the misters right behind the grill in between the bumper and facing towards the condenser. Yes, I'll be using distilled water in the system after I get it all tested out. ;)

A quick test with the water hose as the supply line and I got another 4°F drop. Looks like I can run around a steady 50°F below ambient. :D

I'll have to do a timed test to see how long a gallon of water will last. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
No time fer a timed flow test...so I threw in my 54qt cooler and filled it with water. It should last a round trip to Houston. ;)

Got everything hooked up and tested. No leaks! This will be an interesting run to Houston. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Success! 50°F below ambient! Industry standard is 20°F below ambient. :D

Since the cooler lid was slightly open because of the tubing, I'm not sure how much water splashed out versus what got actually used by the pump. A quick glance shows I used about 3 gallons of water during the 1.5hr drive out. I should be able to dial down the pump pressure later on this morning. I've got a run back into the heart of Houston today so I don't want to use up my entire water supply on the way in. I plan to pick up a "Y" so I can attach my water pressure gauge to accurately dial in the pressure. :D

I have to find a way of weighing the end of the hose down so it doesn't float to the top of the water reservoir. I'm guessing some stainless steel washers should do the trick. ;)

I'm also picking up a switch so I can turn the pump on/off instead of tying the wires together from last night. At least I got it up and running last night. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Drats! :(

Seems the pump is dying a slow death as it's not able to handle the heat or pressure over the drive to Houston. The big clue was when the vents temps didn't drop down to the expected 50ish degrees that I saw before. A quick stop and inspection of the system showed the pump was only producing a dribble. :(

My drive back home later tonight should be bearable as it will be night time and no significant amount of traffic to slow me down. ;)

At least there is a ton of potential to increase the cooling capability using a misting setup. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
After testing everything, the pump is fine. The soft flexible hose I stuck on the suction side kinked at the top of the cooler and was preventing the water supply to be delivered to the pump. :(

I picked up some hard poly tubing from Lowes and I'm cementing it into the drain port of a 60 quart Igloo cooler I picked up off of Craigslist for $15. I'm sure I won't have any issues with the supply line now.

The new cooler will be able to handle ice cold water if I really need super cooling for the AC. I wonder how low the vent temps will go... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
It's been a good week since the water misting system was installed. Water usage seems to be high so I discovered that the water was being siphoned out since the supply line is higher than the discharge outlets. I need to find a way of installing a simple spring vacuum break so the supply line doesn't keep siphoning the water out after I turn the system off and it depressurizes. I could also try a single gallon setup in the dropped air dam so that the water supply is lower than the misting nozzles. This would require the pump to be moved to the dropped air dam to keep the lines short (original concept design). I may even reduce the number of spray misting nozzles from 4 to 2 in order to reduce water usage rate. I will test the 2 nozzles setup to see how efficient it will be in extreme heat. I still have to figure out how to adjust the pressure switch relay to reduce the PSI from 80-100PSI to something a little closer to 40-50PSI. :D

I use the water misting system as a supercharger/boosting setup to git the refrigerant cooler quicker when first starting out after it's been cooking in the heat (ambient and radiant heat from the engine). Once my vent temps have dropped into the low 60's, I usually turn off the misting system when I'm driving as there really isn't a need to go any lower unless I want to freeze my passengers. The vent temps will usually keep dropping into the 50's if my drive is long enough. If it looks like I'm gonna be in stopped traffic fer awhile, I'll flip the pump switch back on and turn it off when I'm moving again. :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Added an extension to the pressurized water line so I could mount the pump to the spare tire support in the bed. This is when I discovered the cooler drain was leaking because of the leftover sealant that was leftover from my attempt at insalling the supply line in there. After removing and cleaning up all the bits and pieces, no more leaks. Now I should be able to see how much the system uses when it's turned on. ;)

With an ambient temp of 78 degrees this morning, my vent temp got down to 37 degrees after starting the engine up. Engine bay temp was around 90 degrees at the time. Just imagine if the ducting was insulated... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 · (Edited)
CreoX said:
I do like your AC mod with covering low pressure line with rubber foam & tape.
Few questions though:
You covered only the low pressure flexible hose running from compressor to the forward firewall or somewhere else?
I am thinking to utilize that idea also on my Ford, so that way I will have all good AC by this winter in Oregon :)

Thanks.

PS. Just a thought... what if you'd also foam wrap high pressure lines & dryer?
I initially insulated the low pressure line (fat line) from the compressor to the firewall but I ended up insulating all the low pressure lines I could find from the condenser to the compressor as well. Wrapping the foam with DEI's titanium exhaust wrap that I got from Advanced Auto Parts and installing a heat shield near the exhaust manifold made a significant drop in vent temps. I'm not sure if wrapping the dryer will make a difference or not. ;)

I would not recommend wrapping the high pressure line (smaller pipe) as you want it to shed the heat as much as possible as the refrigerant reaches the condenser. ;)
 
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So I did a half of mod on Ford already by insulating low pressure lines with 3/4 rubber foam for pipes purchased at home depot for 5 buck a piece;) I secured them with zip ties only. Applying aluminum tape on it as a heat shield is really painful due to poor access in that engine compartment. Results so far:
There is in fact slight increase in cooling

Once I was at it, I also un-modded ram air intake mod that I purchased from ebay some time ago. Problem with that (for those who will wonder) is that air intake tube is made out of metal. IAT sensor was mounted on that tubing, so every time engine warms up - you get very high IAT temp readings which will induce extra rich fuel mixture to be supplied to your injectors by ECM. On hot summer days its getting even better, hence you will turn on AC that will provide that extra heat into engine compartment driving your IAT reading to 130F and above. At 150-160F engine stalled for some reason.
So what you do, you put original intake tube back, and buy extensions + new ram air filter. Also, reposition IAT sensor towards the front of the engine as close to the filter as possible. Worked!
 

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"Unknown brown" connector on the top of the cooling unit (between blower & heater core), where is that should be plugged to?
On diagram it shows IH4 or something, 2 wires goes to it & shows connection above the unit... but can't see where. Hmm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
"Unknown brown" connector on the top of the cooling unit (between blower & heater core), where is that should be plugged to?
On diagram it shows IH4 or something, 2 wires goes to it & shows connection above the unit... but can't see where. Hmm...
Snap some piccies and post them. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
The only two wire connectors are the B4 (blower motor) and D22 (defroster mode switch). I would guess that it is the defroster mode switch which turns on the AC compressor when the selector is on Defrost mode. Wire colors are light blue/red and black/yellow. ;)
 

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Yes, wire colors do ring the bell. Don't have a pic on me I am at work, but tried put all that gizmo together this morning, everything is done... except that plug didn't find a home.

Wait... !
Do you mean that plug goes into *Defrost* switch that on interior trim panel or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Yes, wire colors do ring the bell. Don't have a pic on me I am at work, but tried put all that gizmo together this morning, everything is done... except that plug didn't find a home.

Wait... !
Do you mean that plug goes into *Defrost* switch that on interior trim panel or something?
The plug goes into the switch that should be located on the vent duct and not the control panel. I've never had the opportunity to pull the ducting apart yet so I'm not exactly sure where it is located on the duct work but it would have to be near the defroster linkage on the diverter part. ;)
 
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