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After making a few more tweaks to the drain tube, a quick run out to Temple and back proves the tubing makes a super big difference! No more condensation back up! With the end of the tubing in the airflow, I believe it will help draw out any water in the tray. The AC was almost as cold as it was in my 1993 T-100. :D

This mod is a MUST DO fer yer T-100! :D

I think my next experiment will be to see if I can git the condensation to fill a reserve jug located in the front so I can use the cool water reserve to spray mist the condenser when I'm in stop and go traffic. I'm think a good gallon should work. ;)

I did install the same drain tube on the 1996 T-100 and I fit the hose in the gap between the frame and the body mount bracket. I'll have to do a quick short test run tomorrow and see how well it works in that setup, too. ;)
So I finally was able to tinker around with the blower and evaporator this weekend. Blower was filled with crud so I cleaned that out. Evaporator was dirty but not as bad as Bams.

I've had a bucket underneath the evaporator housing to catch the water that leaks inside due to the condensation. There's quite a bit of it that comes out. I'm going to try this tubing thing to see if it helps any. As far as I can tell, the original tube is kind of kinked at the drain plug to the hole. I reversed the tube but it will still make a kink due to the positioning of those things.
 

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Okay...
What I will do, I will take it all apart again (heater, cooler, blower) & snap few pics once I am at it.
I guess I forgot to post update.
I took whole thing apart again, and found jack for that plug. It was right inside the cooler somewhere on the top. Can't miss it, cuz that was the only jack that plug would fit.
No pics.
 

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So I finally was able to tinker around with the blower and evaporator this weekend. Blower was filled with crud so I cleaned that out. Evaporator was dirty but not as bad as Bams.

I've had a bucket underneath the evaporator housing to catch the water that leaks inside due to the condensation. There's quite a bit of it that comes out. I'm going to try this tubing thing to see if it helps any. As far as I can tell, the original tube is kind of kinked at the drain plug to the hole. I reversed the tube but it will still make a kink due to the positioning of those things.
I know what you talking about. Last year when I was at it, I checked if tube is okay & also installed rubber grommet on the firewall, so that drain tube wouldn't chafe.
No pics.
 

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AC isn't blowing out as cold anymore which is what prompted me to check the blower/evaporator. We also hooked it up to a pressure gauge and it shows the low side going into retard mode. One of the first things we are going to do is try to stop the leak that is happening from the evaporator housing. Next step is to replace the expansion valve as we think there might be a clog in there. Then purge out the system completely and put some refrigerant back in. Hope this will make it blow cold again.
 

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hey Bam I have a 95 and was looking for drain for evap on A/C but couldn't find one. My air smells musty sometimes. I heard of a foam you shoot up tube made by toyota. Also wanted to make sure it wasn't clogged. Any ideas?
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
hey Bam I have a 95 and was looking for drain for evap on A/C but couldn't find one. My air smells musty sometimes. I heard of a foam you shoot up tube made by toyota. Also wanted to make sure it wasn't clogged. Any ideas?
The drain fer the evaporator is located at the bottom of the case and leads out of the cabin through the firewall just below the AC low/high pressure lines. You might want to raise the rear of the truck so anything you clean out drains out easily. ;)

Give this product a try... ;)
http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Just so if there are any doubts on the effectiveness of the AC low pressure line wrap mod... ;)

Outside ambient temp was 87 degrees F. The number in F on the left is my underhood temps between the hood and the top of the engine. The number in F on the right is the temp from the right middle vent. ;)


Have you wrapped yer low pressure line in time fer the summer heat yet? ;)
 
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I came here randomly by 96Wolf's suggestion here:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...t-just-got-old-t100-need-suspension-help.html

I noticed my A/C belt had snapped (and caught by plate below), probably because my A/C pump bearings had seized.... so before next summer (it's cold here in MA now), I need to redo my A/C.... So, this is a place-holder note.

FYI: Last summer I replaced the Air blower motor and was also into my evaporator under the dash because of minor mouse and because of significant dust accumulation (20 years & 230K miles). I used HVAC fin cleaner to free it up and got considerable more A/C cooling, and alternatively Heat (coil is behind the evaporater it seems....).

SO these are all problems to solve. Pretty sure I need to start diagnostics with the Pump & the catastrophic failure of the belt! So I may be in the market for parts....
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Ever since replacing my evaporator, my vent temps have been in the low to mid 40's. A quick look around the engine bay revealed that my experimental Foamular gap filler between the radiator support and the top of the radiator had deteriorated and had fallen down. Since I had some leftover rubber foam pipe wrap, I cut it in half so I could fill the gap. My vent temps dropped another 3°F so now I'm in the upper 30's with an ambient temp in the upper 90's. Sometimes over 60°F temperature differential! ;)

I saw where some Chrysler vans have a rubber skirt around the front part of the radiator to keep the air pressure moving through the condenser and radiator. I hope to git to that level soon. ;)
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
I have noticed that my AC is now super cold and there isn't an OEM adjustable thermostatic switch fer the compressor. My gas mileage has dropped back down since I fixed my evaporator issue so now I want to see what I can do to increase my gas mileage back up. My 1975 Celica had an adjustable thermostatic switch that allowed me to easily adjust the temperature limit fer the compressor clutch. I'm gonna see if I can use this one from O'Reilly Auto parts. ;)
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...witch/35845/4517291/2004/toyota/4runner?pos=1


Right now, the compressor runs until it hits the cycle/temp limit and then cycles off until it gits too warm again. This might give me more control on the temp (besides running the heater) as well as improved fuel efficiency. I guess I could install the switch on the compressor clutch power wire (which comes from the AC amplifier) and the temperature probe in the vent. I'll have to come up with a scale so I know what sort of temperature adjustment range I will have. ;)

I wonder how well those digital ones off of eBay work... ;)
 

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wow - popular, well-attended thread. I shall read some of this in association with the blower motor thread (I too have been in and out of my evaporator & fan many times). Nothing to add here at present other than when my AC pump seized at 230K, I just gave up on AC; I shall pursue and fix as soon as my truck is done hauling lumber, masonry and demo.

Parting shot: when parking on grass or micey areas, always throw the vent into fresh away from recirculate (in most vehicles).
(I have no idea how mice get into the cab space).
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Parting shot: when parking on grass or micey areas, always throw the vent into fresh away from recirculate (in most vehicles).
(I have no idea how mice get into the cab space).
The fresh intake located under the cowl screen is wide open. You can git some expanded metal and install it on there to give you some protection against rodents. I think there is a thread over at 4x4wire that documents how to do that. ;)
 

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1997 T100 RWD Auto
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Things are starting to warm up in this part of California, so I spent some time on my A/C this week.

Last year I replaced the evaporator, but noticed this spring it was not quite as cool when I turned it on for a test. I thought perhaps a tiny leak would cause that, so I replaced the drier and gaskets, and the gaskets going to the condenser (since I had it all apart anyway)
I took it in to the local garage and Clint (local mechanic) hooked his machine up and evac-ed out the system for me...during the process he found another leak where low-pressure goes into the firewall (attachement to the condenser) so we had to pull it off the machine and replace the rubber o-ring (that was probably my culprit from last summer..)

Evac-ed the system again and put in new freon. Everything blows cold now. I left it in a few days to make sure there where no more leaks and then wrapped the lines in foam pipe-insulation and wrapped that in a cut-up windshield-sun-screen and metal tape.

I have not driven with it yet, so I am not sure if it will make a difference but @BamZipPow your idea about shielding the lines seemed like a practical solution, so I thought it could not hurt to do something similar.

294076
 

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I have not driven with it yet, so I am not sure if it will make a difference but @BamZipPow your idea about shielding the lines seemed like a practical solution, so I thought it could not hurt to do something similar.

I had to drive for a couple of hours today running some chores. The A/C was noticeably cooler and (more noticeable) it was cold almost instantly, where before it would take a minute or two to start blowing cold.
 

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1996 Toyota T100 SR5 4x4 A/T
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I realize now that @BamZipPow started this thread talking about wrapping the low pressure line, but I wrapped the high pressure line because it didn't have anything on it as it is.

I used some Reflectix double insulation roll, cut into strips, with some thermal roll as well:
Azure Wood Grey Automotive tire Font

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car Wheel Vehicle



I'll probably go back and do the low pressure line before too long...
 

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'97 T100 3.4 V6 DLX Xtra Cab 4x4
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I realize now that @BamZipPow started this thread talking about wrapping the low pressure line, but I wrapped the high pressure line because it didn't have anything on it as it is.

I used some Reflectix double insulation roll, cut into strips, with some thermal roll as well:
View attachment 343577
View attachment 343578


I'll probably go back and do the low pressure line before too long...
I did the low line, what a difference! I used 1/2" thick, 2" wide foam that has a silver side to it and the foam side sticks, got at Home Depot, wrapped from fire wall all way to compressor
 

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Had some time to work on the T-100 today... :D

Made up a new heat shield...it's more refined and easy to remove now. There's enough of a gap to allow any residual heat coming off the exhaust manifold to rise past the COPs. Hopefully it won't cook the COPs over time... :D

Brackets off the top of the COPs using the COP hold down bolt...


Aluminum flashing (I got a lot of this stuff all over the T-100 now) as my new heat shield...


Front view...


Aluminum foil over the foam insulation...keeps the cold in and the heat out!
I wish I could see these photos. Why do they disappear lol?
 
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