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T100 Fender Liners from Rad Rubber & ...

2820 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  JT00mas
Back in December 2017 I bought a used (obviously) 1998 T100 SR5 A/T 4WD that lacked splash guards/fender liners. I’ve read posts here and all over the internet about engine splash guards. Yes, as of today, the factory guards for my model are still available, but for about $150 for a pair without hardware and before taxes and shipping. Uhm.. Please, no.

So I put on my best DIY hat and scoured the internet for appropriate and appropriately priced materials. I pretty quickly landed on 1/8”-thick, 60A-strength neoprene rubber as the ideal material in every way but one... cost of raw materials. Every internet source of said material was a trade-off between buying just enough, but paying a premium for the material to be cut off someone’s bulk roll or buying a bulk roll of my own at a reasonable rate but having enough for 10 vehicles. Let me stop here to answer the question that’s nagging the OCD types who answer all questions with additional questions... I have no idea if these materials are available in a nearby brick-n-mortar business. That kind of research doesn’t fit well into my current daytime occupation.

Back on topic, my internet research came to a head with the discovery that almost every other Toyota truck owner can buy a full set of splash shields that are custom cut for their application from the previously identified perfect material from a company called Rad Rubber. (radrubberdesign.com) Unfortunately, the best option for me as a T100 owner — on their entire site — was to use the “Contact Us” link to inquire about where they source their raw materials...

A few minutes later I noticed that I somehow missed a call and I had a voice message that started like, “Oh, yes. Message is for John. John this is Eddie with Red Rubber. you sent an email..” My first thought wasn’t — as you probably suspect — ‘Wow! That was fast!’. It was, “I wonder if he knows that speech to text calls his company Red Rubber?”

Anyway, I called him back immediately... and I got him on his cell enroute to some business thing... Ends up Eric isn’t just their customer service guy.. he owns the company! I know it’s a niche product in a niche market but it’s always nice to deal with a company like that.

Anyway, Eric proposed that I make a poster board template for him, mail it to his office, and he’d return a quote for me, that should be within the ballpark of the other models sold on his site, differing only in proportion to actual size of the final pattern. I liked the idea enough to eagerly consent, so we talked about 10 minutes more. He answered a few of my questions and clarified how to make the template in a way that the final product would fit uniformly on its fasteners, avoiding heat sources, & generally be understandable/reproducible on his end.

I’m posting this to motivate myself to follow through on this possibility, because I’ve got a few other higher priority projects on my T100 right now... Before you argue, let me say, my T100 has been on jackstands for almost 2 years!

I’m back working on it, now, after an extended hiatus. I’ve got gallons of Royal Purple and boxes of Billsteins and boxes of Spicer and boxes of MOOG. UPS says I’ve got a box from Marlin Crawler arriving within the hour. The Post Office says there’s one from Torq Masters due today by 8 pm. Not to be outdone, Amazon says something called a ‘no-slip’ will arrive today, a Denso 471-1218 should arrive tomorrow, & despite my intention to set the T100 aside on the Lord’s Day, a DENSO 280-0166 is scheduled to arrive Sunday! But the plan for tomorrow can’t be to make templates for fender liners because my young and quite strong nephew is available to assist, so the plan is to get the transmission/transfer-case hanging from its own hardware once again, for the first time in over a year!

But I should be able to get these templates done sometime in the following week. So, IF — in the next 10 days — I don’t update this to say that I’ve mailed my templates off to Rad Rubber, please feel free to harass me about it!
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Edited original to make link work.
(Long time listener, first time caller.)
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But I should be able to get these templates done sometime in the following week. So, IF — in the next 10 days — I don’t update this to say that I’ve mailed my templates off to Rad Rubber, please feel free to harass me about it!
[/QUOTE]


So here is the requested harassment...:LOL:
Any update?
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The black liner is a very shrunken OEM liner. The colors are the complete chipset from Monstaliner. The white poster board is my 3rd & final iteration. I need to make another copy just to confirm the fit on the other side and then mail it off... Also, my transmission is back in and reconnected except for plumbing in the two senders for mechanical gauges and installation of new denso starter. And I got sidetracked and installed new Bilsteins despite truck not currently being drivable! I’m banished from our shop though as my Dad is doing his Covid-19 quarantine in there, while I stay in the house and take care of my Mom who needs to be isolated.. Stay safe, y’all. “6 feet distance to protect existence” Thanks for asking!
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View attachment 295924
The black liner is a very shrunken OEM liner. The colors are the complete chipset from Monstaliner. The white poster board is my 3rd & final iteration. I need to make another copy just to confirm the fit on the other side and then mail it off... Also, my transmission is back in and reconnected except for plumbing in the two senders for mechanical gauges and installation of new denso starter. And I got sidetracked and installed new Bilsteins despite truck not currently being drivable! I’m banished from our shop though as my Dad is doing his Covid-19 quarantine in there, while I stay in the house and take care of my Mom who needs to be isolated.. Stay safe, y’all. “6 feet distance to protect existence” Thanks for asking!
Any updates for us ?
Yeah I need some too! Mine are still there but shrunken considerably.
I, too, am interested. Previous owner took them off, and being in an area with high road salt usage I think I'd like to have 'em. I checked the Rad Rubber website and saw no T100 offerings. Thank you for working on this solution, I hope you and Eric were able to figure something out!
Sorry... but I dropped the ball big time. I still have a poster board template but didn’t mail it off to him because I was debating a body lift, which I eventually did do. Arguably all I’d have to do is “add an inch” but that’s not entirely true because some of the fasters went to the body and some to the frame.
8
8/26/2022 @ 247,620 mi. Long delayed completion of FENDER LINER project:

I modified the previously-made template to adjust coverage for subsequently installed 1-inch body lift by extending the lower edge by the width of my straight edge, which I think was 1-1/4 inches. I transferred the new template to a PVC-foam diamond-plate floor mat (3 ft x 4 ft, $20, Home Depot).

Motor vehicle Road surface Font Gas Automotive exterior

I cut the liners out of the floor mat with a pair of normal scissors and I used a “sharpened” 3/8” steel tube and a hammer to cut slightly oversized holes in the floor mat for the attach hardware.
The top and bottom finishes on the floor mat are very different so I wanted “mirror-image” fender liners so whichever side I decided to go with could be outboard on both sides of the truck, so after tracing out the first liner, I flipped the template over and transferred it a second time to a new area of the same floor mat. I ended up putting the finished “diamond plate” surface from the top of the floor mat to the outboard side because it looked more robust.
The attach hardware uses holes that were already present in the body, but they aren’t all the same diameter. I wasn’t thrilled about using a mix of different fasteners, so I drilled all the mounting holes in both wheel wells out to 23/64” and installed stainless-steel nutserts (6mmx1.00) in the mounting holes. I installed the fender liners using OEM Toyota body bolts and extra large stainless steel fender washers. The fender washers are really too big but I had them on hand from when I shimmed my bump stops, so I used them.
The attach hardware uses holes that were already present in the body and are the same in both wheel wells with 3 exceptions.
The first two exceptions are two fasteners on the driver’s side that have no corresponding fastener on the passenger side. They hold the bottom edge of the OEM fender liner to a bracket around the steering gearbox. These two holes are what kept me from finishing this project back when I started it because I was considering doing a body lift. Being on a frame mounted bracket instead of on the inner fender, they are the only two holes that were affected (moved down) by my body lift. There are no corresponding lower attach points in the passenger-side wheel well.
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper


The final exception is the furthest forward attach point in the passenger side wheel well, which is completely concealed by the OEM windshield-washer-fluid reservoir.
Automotive tire Font Space Circle Auto part

My original plan was to trim the liner on this side to end at the back edge of the reservoir, but decided instead to remove and replace the reservoir so I could mount the full size liner, in case I decide sometime in the future to relocate the factory reservoir, I won’t need a different fender liner. (People who run oversized tires and/or flexy front suspension will remove their factory reservoir and install a smaller, aftermarket reservoir in the engine compartment directly above the original location. They squeeze a smaller reservoir between the back of the passenger headlight and the front of the air-box.) With the reservoir removed I found there was no hole in the fender for the forward most attach point, but there was nothing on either side of the inner fender right there, so I drilled one.
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Because the two rearmost attach points in both wheel wells are fairly close to the back of the fender, those washers had to be modified (one side bent up) to clear the back of the fender.
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I shot a coat of black Rustoleum on the shiny new metal parts so they don’t jump out at you so bad…
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber


Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Hood Wheel

And that’s a wrap (finally) on that project, at least as long as these liners last!
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