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Sethmark said:
Yes. 1 piece top to bottom. This one is raw steel (obviously). Gonna beat on it for the weekend and see if I missed anything. The material does NOT need to be thicker. There's zero deflection as it is, the rubber bumpers aren't over stressed and everything fits great. Not sure about finish yet...

Thanks.
Sweet. Read my edit... lol You may be able to skip the extra mounting hardware with that one!

Guess it answers my question about needing extrusions or whatever for strength.

Guess it also means it's cheaper since it's the thinner, cheaper steel right? hehe
 

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pyst said:
Ooops, one more thing...

Im curious - is there room to install the factory plastic panel on top of that - even if it means trimming the plastic?

(NOT THAT IT LOOKS BAD AT ALL)

Sorta along those lines, it looks like some of the screws are too long now. Is that true, or did you just put them in enough to line it up?
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I knew that was going to come up. I used the factory hardware b/c its what I had available. The factory hardware has a shoulder that fits inside the plastic panel which is eliminated with the steel panel. I plan to use stainless steel button heads for mouting which will be threaded all the way down... so it'll sit flush. I just don't have it.
 

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Sethmark said:
I knew that was going to come up. I used the factory hardware b/c its what I had available. The factory hardware has a shoulder that fits inside the plastic panel which is eliminated with the steel panel. I plan to use stainless steel button heads for mouting which will be threaded all the way down... so it'll sit flush. I just don't have it.
Ah. I see.. I forgot the plastic cover is curved around those pieces... So unless you stamp the cover, those mount will have to be replaced anyway. So is it just the top screws, or all of them that have the shoulder?
 

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So Seth, are those boot prints from you "stress testing" it? :clap:

Anyway, just showed my wife and got the green light to get one when you're ready! :whatwhat: She likes how its "stream lined and all one piece".
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Only the top screws are shouldered. I'm going to replace all of them.

As for wife approval, mine thought that it looked 'nice' and that I looked 'sexy' jumping up and down on it. She also gave me the 'I'm 6 1/2 months pregnant and its not too heavy for me' approval.

A little more patience. We're close, but I don't do anything half way. Its gonna be great or not at all.
 

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That looks alot stronger than the plastic seth. I was wondering if it would be possible to "lose" the two bolts on top of the tailgate or would too much strength be lost? The only thing I can see that would be a problem for me is that my tonneau cover would not fit as snugly as before in the area where it made contact with the top of the tailgate. Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Certainly you could choose not to run them. The factory plastic can be retro fit over top the steel, but will require some modification to fit. Basically, you'll need to cut off the clips that retains it.

Seth
 

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Sethmark said:
Certainly you could choose not to run them. The factory plastic can be retro fit over top the steel, but will require some modification to fit. Basically, you'll need to cut off the clips that retains it.

Seth
I had to do that when I put a piece of angle iron under it to reinforce the tailgate on my own. In hindsight I should've waited a couple months... :lol: Now I just need to figure out how to get the Gorilla glue off so I can take the plastic cap off, and 2-ton epoxy off to get the angle iron off so I can get this.
 

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looks great!

when your ready... i'll take one! as a carpenter, everyday i wonder when i'm going to bend that crappy gate.
 

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Very nice work Seth. Maybe I missed it in the other posts but was there any mention of how much this will cost? Not like it really matters though I will most likely buy one reguardless.
 
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