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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
:DWell, the T100 got a bit of work done this weekend. Sorry, no pics cause I didn't want to hold up the process :sosad: (we were in a dealer shop). But here's what we did:

New clutch (Stock Toyota...redesigned and beefier than the one that came out) and included new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk. Still chatters a bit, but should go away after a few days of break-in :thumbsup: The pedal feel is actually lighter on the beefier clutch. Go figure. FYI - the clutch that came out had three damper springs. The new ones for the T100 have 4, and a larger center section (thicker and stronger) The old clutch disk center section was blued from the heat of slipping a few times! Oops!

Resurfaced the flywheel. It had been worn down where the clutch disks contacted, and they left a small, high ridge in between the inner and outer clutch blocks! :eek: Same for the other side on the pressure plate. We cut the flywheel the same way disk rotors are resurfaced and made it look all nice and (sorta) new :D

New rear main seal (we did this just because we were there...and it's a $16 part that costs a few hundred to replace on its own :eek:

New transfer case seals (awesome...no more pile o' gear oil!!!):clap:

Re-sealed the top of the transfer case (no sealant on there before...could have been leaking):rolleyes:

Re-filled the Tcase...it's finally full and holding all its oil!:D

Checked and topped off both diffs and the tranny (didn't need any oil...added a bit just cause)

Permanantly hooked up the Sirius (awesome!)

Installed the Sirius through my power converter...it wasn't adverstised to do so, but the converter will run the DC outlet without being turned on...sweet!:D That means I can leave the power converter always hooked into the cig lighter and still run the Sirius (DC power) without having the converter on.

Replaced a 15A fuse that blew while I was messing around with the cig lighter outlet. :lol:

Discovered that, based on the spin n' count method, the rear axle code A09A is used for 3.90 rear ends. Wish I had 4.10s (due to the larger 31x10.5x15 tires that came brand new on the truck, but at least I turn fewer revs on the higheway netting slightly better mpg, theoretically) ;)

Also discovered that the shifter base of the transfer case has disintegrated!:eek: Gotta get a new one. I put the Marlin upgrade in the tranny a while back, but they don't seem to advertise one for our transfer cases. Anyone know if their other one will work? http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-tools/hardware/heavy-duty-shifter-seat-forward-shift
I know it says it's for the forward-shift, but I just thought I would see if anyone used it for their T100.

Also, I discovered that when removing and re-installing the transfer case lever, make sure to put it in 4wd hi first, and when re-installing it make sure you place the knob to the passenger side of the wierd wire spring, and kind of jam it over and slide the stick into place. This will hold it in place when shifting from 2hi to 4hi. Otherwise, when you shift into 4wd Hi, the lever will want to go over to the passenger side perilously close to the neutral and 4lo positions! Wouldnt want to accidentally bang the lever into 4lo while driving around! Unless you want to litter the road with broken transmission and transfer case parts (and possibly throw a rod in the motor if it gets over-revved)!:D

That's about it! I also learned having a lift, air tools, and the proper tools and accessories for special jobs (pulling bearings, reaching bolts in odd places, etc.) makes a huge, huge difference. All the drivetrain stuff was done in about 3-4 hours!:D All in all an awesome weekend with the truck! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Pics of the Sirius

I was finising up the mounting of the Sirius radio and thought I would snap a few pics. It took a while to figure out where I wanted the radio...I don't like a busy dash. So, I found a little spot under the cig lighter outlet that works perfectly. I thought my leg might hit it but after driving a bit I don't, and the location is nice and clean. I used some serious exterior mounting tape from scotch to stick it under the dash. And I used xylene to clean the area before applying the tape. I like it! :D Oh, and ignore the unmounted shift boots...they will be fixed once the new transfer case shifter bushing arrives and goes in (it's a pain to put them on and take them off repeatedly). Also, I mounted the power converter using velcro so i can remove it and hook it to the battery if I need 200 watts (as opposed to the 100 watts it will give through the cig outlet). I like having the versatility :clap:


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well, this post was supposed to be a new thread and was going to be about this fun list of things to do to my truck over my vacation, but then...

I pulled away from a stop the other day and heard and felt a bit of a clunk from somewhere under/behind me (the driveline). I thought that was wierd, but then it has started happening more frequently, and only when starting from a stop. Feels like driveline bind or something. So I look up under the truck and I see gear oil on the output side of the transfer case (where the driveshaft connects). Great. I just had the tranny and transfer case out recently for some seals and a clutch, and it looks like it has to come back out again. Hopefully not, but we'll see. I will be getting it diagnosed soon and will let everyone know what's wrong for future info.

I won't bore you with the list of things it could be, so like I said i will update once I know. Hopefully it will help in the future. After moping around the house and venting that I was going to sell the truck (not actually being serious, just out of frustration :)), with my wife rolling her eyes at me :D, I am now kind of excited to figure it out! :thumbsup:
 

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Great news on the first couple of posts, and sorry to hear about that on your last one. It sure is a nice feeling when you get all this stuff done isn't it? Too bad you will have to look into what is going on with that gear oil leak. Oh well you will fix it and all will be right in the world. Just remember that this maint. is way way cheaper then a 500 buck a month truck payment. Because the new trucks are very pricey. Nice but pricey. And they are NOT a T-100;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great news on the first couple of posts, and sorry to hear about that on your last one. It sure is a nice feeling when you get all this stuff done isn't it? Too bad you will have to look into what is going on with that gear oil leak. Oh well you will fix it and all will be right in the world. Just remember that this maint. is way way cheaper then a 500 buck a month truck payment. Because the new trucks are very pricey. Nice but pricey. And they are NOT a T-100;)
Thanks! And yes, I am back to being excited to have something to work on and get it all up to snuff. I get the feeling the previous owner did VERY little maintenance past oil changes!:D And I certainly want to keep this T100 up and running at its best. I love these trucks! And not just because I don't want to buy a new truck! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Quick (and very wordy) update. A few weeks ago, I noticed a VERY small drip of gear oil from the rear output flange on the Tcase. Of course, these are the seals we didn't replace when we had it in the shop. But thankfully because they are at the output, they are easy to get to. So I ordered the two (yes two) seals for the rear transfer case output (flange). I had my father-in-law check it, and said not to worry about it too much as it was so slight. But he gave ma call Saturday and was in his shop (Toyota master tech! woohoo!) and said to bring it by. Well, we (and by we, I mean mostly he :D) repalced the two seals (one for the flange and one main seal). Well, no more drip! Sweet!

What is not so sweet...it looks like someone has opend the transfer case before and there is some play in the internals. After some diagnosis, it doesn't appear to be hurting anything, and the 4WD still operates perfectly (hey, it pulled us through the snow the other day :D). I think this may be the source of an intermittent clunk I get when pulling away from a stop. I tried to replicate it at the shop, but to no one's surprise it wouldn't do it for them :rolleyes:. But it may not be the clunk after all (see below).

I also changed the oil on Sunday (I hit 90K! :D), and while I was under there, I greased the 50 or so grease fittings on the driveshaft. Okay, so it's more like 10, but there are a bunch! Anyway, I realized that on each of the front and rear driveshafts, there is a big fitting for where the driveshaft "sleeve" fits over the other portion of the driveshaft. I don't know the technical terms. But its the part of the driveshafts that allows them to compress and expand. Well, I pumped grease in a few times and nothing. So I did it a few more times, and nothing. So i finally started adding like crazy until it was hard to add any more. I think those had not been greased in quite some time (the u-joints were fine), and I think I may have been filling that void between the inner shaft and the sleeve portion of the driveshaft. Anyway, I am not getting a clunk, and I am wondering if that may have been the culprit...having it be "sticky" due to lack of grease, and clunking as it released/compressed as the rear squats on a takeoff. I dunno, but it sounds like a good theory to me!

Anyway, word of advice. GREASE YOUR DRIVESHAFTS!!! Especially you 4x4 guys. A replacement is in the neighborhood of $750-$1,000! :eek: I was not aware of this. Yes, U-joints can be replaced, but on the 4x4 driveshaft, there is a double cardin joint that CANNOT be rebuilt...Toyota has even tried to send them to specialty shops, and they can't do it. If this goes bad, you are looking at total replacement. Just my two pennies!:thumbsup:
 

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SC that is great news that its all fixed now!!! Must be really really nice to have a toyota shop and a master tech to help you out! That is awesome. I too was crawling around underneith my T earlier this fall and I was going to grease her up. Mine is 2wd. It looked like they are all sealed joints, no grease fittings. Maybe I need to check again, it was a while ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
SC that is great news that its all fixed now!!! Must be really really nice to have a toyota shop and a master tech to help you out!.
Thanks, and yes, yes it is! It's part of the reason I bought the truck needing some work. :D

Mine is 2wd. It looked like they are all sealed joints, no grease fittings. Maybe I need to check again, it was a while ago.
Yeah, I am not sure what the 2WD driveshafts have. But it couldn't hurt to look to make sure. There was a 4WD Taco recently that had to replace the driveshaft due to lack of greasing and it cost the guy in the neighborhood of $800. My father-in-law has a 2WD T100 also (I like his a lot too), and I think he has grease fitting in his driveshaft. He may have been talking about his 4WD 4Runner though. We are a big Toyota family. :D

Ps. Make sure you can rotate the DS to check all sides of the joints (just a reminder), as well as the interior of the U-joints...a few of fittings are buried inside the joints themselves. I had to rotate mine to find a few of them. :)
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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There are no grease fittings on the 2WD driveshaft... ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the confirmation Bam! :D So to reiterate for the 4WD guys...grease the driveshaft!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Why is your ashtray a different color?

Also,

Is that a coffee maker under the ashtray?

Nice job by the way.
Thanks!

Actually, it's black, but it looks brown for some reason (notice the E-brake rod is black as well, but looks brown in the photo. I have no dea why. :D Must be something with the camera settings.

Coffeemaker? I wish! One of those "pod" style coffemakers in the cab would be awesome.

Now you have me thinking because that is my 100/200W (cig outlet/battery connection) power inverter, and depending upon the wattage requirement, I could put a coffee maker in there if I wanted. I installed the inverter with velcro to the panel to keep it accessable and out of the way at the same time. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Update: Gear Oil Change

Well I finally(!) got around to changing out all the gear oil in the truck. I did this mainly for peace of mind. The capacities are listed on another thread, but as with most maintenance, I highly recommed this!

Tools:
Ratchet and 24mm and/or 13/16 sockets (more on this below).

Some sort of pump! You definitely need this. I had to go get one from wally world. The one I picked up was sort of like a big hand soap dispenser with a tube. Worked great, but a little slow!

First, I drained the transmission and refilled with 75W90 full synthetic. I went with the good stuff for the trans :D Note: the haynes manual says the drain plug is on the bottom, and it is, but it doesn't face down...it to the passenger side, parallel to the ground. I guess that is to protect the plug from a good bashing off road.

Then the transfer case - also using 75W90 synthetic.

Then it got interesting.

Rear diff. Well, the 13/16 socket fit better on the rear diff filler bolt than the 24 mm. Ask me how I know. Luckily, I was able to fill and retighten it back using the 13/16, but I will have to replace that plug next time as it is now a little too stripped for my comfort level. The rear diff fluid was pretty clear, but my guess is that this is the first time it's been drained and refilled. I only say this because the drain bolt is magnetic, and it had a few metal flakes and some "sludge" on it. My guess is the thicker stuff is normal on the magnet, but my guess is that the flakes are from initial break-in...90K miles ago. I could be wrong, but that's my gut instinct.:D
Note: the rear diff drains SLOW...I had driven the truck for about an hour that morning, but I guess it cooled a little faster than I was hoping. Also, as I could not find SAE 90 gear oil, I went with the next best thing...80W90 dino.

Front diff: Same story as the rear with the magnetic drain plug. I am glad I decided to do this finally. I probably should have done it a while ago. Anyway, in went fresh 75W90 dino.

Now all the driveline has fesh oil. Woo hoo!

Note: When refilling, I would fill until the gear oil spilled out of the fill hole, and then would let it drain off until it stopped. I have a little too much gear oil in each component, but not enough for me to worry about seals.

And since I know Bam will ask :D, no I did not remove the rear diff breather to check its operation (no fluid around it...rear end seems good and gear oil came out clear, but darker than the stuff going back in), as I plan to do the remote breather mod soon! :thumbsup:

Results, well not much change actually, as it should be. BUT, the transmission does seem to shift more smoothly now. Could be a placebo effect, or it could be the fresh synthetic in it. Either way I am happy! Oh, and costs for the full drain and fill on the 4x4 is in the neighborhood of $60, depending on the ratio of full synthetic to dino oil. And for you guys who like royal purple, there was no way i was going to spend $20 a quart when I ended up using close to 9 quarts! :D Sometimes I envy you 2WD guys which will use closer to 6 quarts instead of 9-10! But only sometimes! ;)
 
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SC great info there! Thanks for sharing. I bet that truck of yours is very grateful to have an owner like you that takes care of it. I will be doing this soon as well. Since mine is a 2wd automatic, i just need to do the rear diff.

I will be interested in knowing if your gas mileage increases or not with the synthetic oil. It may a bit, but probably not enough to notice too much.

How is your power steering and brake fluid looking? Oh and coolant? That is about all you have left to do to that truck right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
SC great info there! Thanks for sharing. I will be interested in knowing if your gas mileage increases or not with the synthetic oil. It may a bit, but probably not enough to notice too much.

How is your power steering and brake fluid looking? Oh and coolant? That is about all you have left to do to that truck right?
Thanks! My pleasure. :D

Mileage - i think it may actually decrease at first until the oil wears a little and thins out. My guess is there wont be much of a change. I hope it helps though, as that certainly wouldn't be a bad thing :D

Power steering and brake fluid are on the list, and the coolant was likely changed when the timing belt was done at 74K. It may not have been, but its red and at the correct level :D.

Are we ever really done? :lol: I think the PO didn't do much past oil changes. And I am resurrecting this beast slowly but surely. I have 13 years of preventative maintance to make up for! I am just glad the timing belt was done at 74K! :thumbsup:The next and final "big" things are to replace the valve cover gaskets (of course), and it needs an all-around brake job (new rotors and pads, new drum shoes, my guess is the drums themselves are fine, and wheel bearings if needed but probbaly not). I am hoping to relace the brake fluid when I do the rotors and pads. The PS fluid and likely the clutch fluid will come after as they seem to be fine as well. :thumbsup: There are other things to come (6x9s and padding/insulation), but those are creature comforts! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
One other update (I think this thread has become way more than I originally thought:D):

I feel the new clutch has finally broken in. It took a little while, but I only drive it on the weekends mostly. But my guess is somewhere in the 500-1000 mile mark is when it finally feels perfect. When it was new, it felt almost as chattery as the old one, but with grip (the old one had Very little left:eek:). But it has now smoothed out and is feelin' fine :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update on power inverter mounting. Well the Armor All finally worked it's way though the Velcro adhesive, and it didn't really want to stick any more. So I decided I would use a spare panel, paint it black, and mount the inverter to it. I picked up the spare panel at the local LKQ for $0.99. Then I sanded it and cleaned it with brake cleaner. I then added the Dupli-Color bedliner in a can. I did this because I want to be able to return the truck to stock if I wish, and holes in panels don't fit the bill.
Before:

After:

Mounted:


I like it! It gives the truck more of a "floating dash" feel with the black mats and panel. I didn't actually mount the inverter yet but that will happen again at some point, using hardware. I think if I hadn't Armor-All'd the panels so much when I last cleaned, I would still be using the Velcro setup. Oh well! This was fun, and the color change is nice to my eyes. :D
 
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