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Tell me about clutches:

1746 Views 20 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  kenratboy
I don't like the clutch in my Camry (see siggy for car) - it just feels like it always 'changes', sometimes, it grab's nice and fast, other times, it seems like it slips too much (but not like it is going bad - despite the fact I have 80k miles)

With my milage, I feel the clutch should be replaced eventually, BEFORE it goes out.

Here is my question(s):

-My car has the MR2 Turbo tranny, can I use a MR2 Turbo clutch, if so, will my mechanic/clutch shop be able to put it on JUST like the OEM Toyota clutch?

-I know organic clutches are best for daily drivers, as you can modulate them, and they are smoother for driving normally. On the other hand, ceramic clutches grab good n' hard, but suck balls for city driving (stalls, fast starts, etc.) Is that correct?

I would LIKE to upgrade to a 'preformance' clutch, something I can still modulate easily (backing out of parking spaces at 1 MPH is MANDATORY), but something that is a little more aggressive would be GREAT! Is there anything that fits the bill? I drive like 7,000 miles a year, so this clutch will probably be with me for a long time and thru a lot of mods, so it can be expensive, but it can't be finiky or unreliable.

What should I get?

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1) Yes

2) Organic or Ceramic, as long as they are full face clutches and with sprung hubs, they will be easy to modulate. A ceramic 6-puck like my SPEC Stage III has a bit of chatter, but its not as bad because its a sprung hub. Some ACT 6-pucks are unsprung and are VERY harsh. Even a segmented full face disc like the CM Stage III is fine, because its full face.

My recommendation for you: Clutchmasters Stage III -or- SPEC Stage II

Where should I buy them, Google didn't give me the results I wanted. Good website that won't sell my CC info to a 17 year old Russian hax0r.

I assume you have or have used the clutch, how was it over the stock clutch?

Thanks again!!!
i was planning to buy a SPEC stage III clutch too! how many mile you have driven on them? how is the performance inprove? Did you buy the "light clutch kit" too? please provide me as much review as you can. thank you!

I am debating over myself for clutchmaster or SPEC
I ordered the SPEC Stage III 6-puck sprung unit - WITHOUT the lightened pressure plate option.

At first there was a quite of bit of chatter during engagement but that went away about 5000 km after the break-in period (light driving, no power shifting, or hard launching).

It holds amazing but I think its a little much for a stock V6. If I was turbo it would be ok, but for a stock V6 or even turbo 5SFE, i would go with a SPEC Stage II or Clutchmasters Stage III.

I've had mine now for about 20,000 KM and it still feels great. In traffic I wish I had a stage II, or stock clutch again :)

I also have a Fidanza lightweight flywheel, which I installed at the same time as the clutch. Just recently I began to get a bad noise from my throw-out bearing, which is annoying, but common I realized. My stock clutch throw-out bearing did the same thing, but made a different sound, either way I hate throw-out bearings period. hehe.

Hope that helps.
thanks for reply but what do you mean little too much for stock v6 or 5sfte? i never had performance clutch in my life so...
What i meant by too much was, the Stage III SPEC 6-puck has like a 350+ ft/lbs torque holding capacity or something, which is a litte overboard for a stock V6 or turbo 5SFE which will hold fine with a Stage II without the driveabilty trade-offs.

Can you give me a model number or a very specific part/car year for the clutch? I need to look at pricing.

What web sites sell them, and links are a plus. I want to make sure I am looking at the exact item I need to buy.

Thanks guys! You r0xor.

Stage 1: ST821
Stage 2: ST822
Stage 3: ST823
Stage 4: ST824

Put in your info where it says spec your car.
88 LE:

Cool. What BRAND clutch is that? I think the Stage 2 is the way to go, but is it a real brand :D ?
^ Spec.

And yes its a real brand. Its the one the others have been talking about.

I am not used to seeing the manufacturer sell like that, I understand now.

Now, stage I or II - what would be best for a mostly stock (non-supercharged) 1MZ-FE for daily driving? Would the I be fine, or should I go for the II?

The $80 price difference is about a day's pay, so it is not an issue for something I might have for over 5 years. I am just wondering about drivability.

Basically, I want a good, predictable, modulatable (is that a word?) clutch, but if I decide to have some fun, I want it to be ready for that.

I will ABSOLUTLY compromise on racing ability for street drivability.

Thanks again!!!
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Get the Stage II... I don't think the SPEC Stage I is a significant enough improvement to justify the new purchase, not to mention the labor cost of installing it.
From your gut feeling, will have be able to modulate it like the stock clutch?

For example, backing out of a parking space in a busy parking lot at ~1 MPH? Will I still be able to do that?
I wonder if the light clutch kit is worth to get. i am not too sure if the Mr2 nonturbo light weight flywheel will fit my car
kenratboy: I can modulate my 6-puck to crawl forward as slow/fast as I like... so I can't imageine why you shouldn't be able to do the same with a Stage II.

UltraslowSolara: The lightweight option is up to you. I think its like $60 USD extra for it, which is your choice if you have the money to spend on an extra option like that. I personally had a Fidanza flywheel and I didn't feel I needed to go "all-out" with the whole lightening process. The MR2 non-turbo clutch should fit your application fine.
Well, I guess I need to call and find install prices for the little guy, and if that seems good, I will order a Stage II.

What did YOUR clutch install cost?
Average cost for just a clutch removal/re-installation in Canada is about $350-$400, of course different cars have varying difficulty. So my estimate in USD is about $250-300 USD for a clutch job. Maybe someone can confirm this for me.
I think I want the stage II, what about the $70 'lightweight' option?
Depends if you care about lightening up your flywheel assembly. If you care about that, then get the lightweight option. Is basically the pressure plate with holes drilled into it to make it lighter. If you aren't super anal about the entire clutch assembly weight then save the $70 :)
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