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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I am new to the forum, but have been driving toyota trucks for ten years. My current truck is a 1989 extra cab 4x4 with the 22RE and 5 speed. It has a total of 155k on the truck, and the person that I got it from said the engine was just rebuilt before I bought it.....although I have no receipts, and don't know if they meant a top-end rebuild, or what.

Anyway, I had this same exact problem in my other truck before I sold it...it was a 1990 reg cab 4x4 22re 5 spd, so pretty similar truck.

When I start the truck in the morning to let it warm up in my driveway it is fine. The temp guage says the engine is nice and cool. It will idle all day without heating up. This is with the heater on as well, but that does not make a difference for this truck at idle. Then, when I start to drive, about 10 minutes into my commute the temp guage starts to go up, over halfway, to about 3/4 of the way to the hot side. It has never gotten into the red. Usually I can turn the heater on full blast for about 30 seconds and then the temp guage goes back down to the normal range and stays there for the rest of the trip. Today, however that did not work. The outside temp this morning was 25 F, and the temp guage went up to 3/4 like it has been doing every day, but my heater trick did not work today. It continued to stay hot all the way to work. When I pulled into our parking garage and shut off the engine, steam was pouring from my hood.

I have read about the temp overshoot problem caused by using a cheap replacement thermostat, but I don't know if that's what's going on here. I plan to order the toyota thermostat today and install it as soon as I can pick it up.

ARe there other things I should check? Does this sound like a possible head gasket problem?

When I got my oil changed last time (I don't have the ability to change it on my own at home), my coolant was full on the overflow tank, but low in the radiator. They didn't mention anything about coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant, but I can't be sure that this isn't a possibility.

Please help!
 

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i would change the thermostat before you end up warping/cracking the head. you also may have a dirty rad that could need a major flush. when you buy a thermostat get a failsafe from beck arnley. when the fail they stay open instead of closed so you wont overheat. start with a coolant flush and a thermostat, flush it after you replace the thermostat or with it completley removed and the heater on . drain the rad with the bottom hoes removed. connect it back fill it with a flush solution run it for about 5 min or until it gets warm then drain the flush and fill with water or even another flush if its filthy. drain again and then fill it with coolant after you put the thermostat in. you may want to run a bit cooler thermostat im in florida and i use a 160 degree failsafe. alot of people down here dont even use them but it will run rich if you continue to run without it but it will tell you if its the thermo. you dont need to get one from toyota go to advanced auto or auto zone they will have it in stock. oh yea and keep your antifreeze away from animals it will kill them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
okay, overheated 3 times last night on the way home from work. Had to go to three parts stores to find one that had the thermostat (fail safe kind), AND gasket. Finally got home around 8 pm. It was only 10 degrees here at that time so it cooled quick. Changed the thermostat, drained and flushed the radiator, refilled the radiator and crawled under to check for leaks.

When I bought the truck from my cousin he told me there was a coolant leak, but I have watched it carefully and not been able to notice a change in coolant level or find any leaks. Well, last night I found it. I think this may be the source of my problem. Since the coolant level was low in the radiator at last oil change, and last night it was again low, this is probably why it overheated. On my drive home last night, despite the overheating I had no heat in the truck.....symptom of a coolant leak and/or bad thermostat.

So, the leak...i eventually tracked it down to a hose that is right above the alternator. I don't have a manual, so I don't even know what this is to...maybe the water pump? Anyway, the clamp looks good, but I could see by looking that this is where the coolant has been leaking, the pipe was discolored green around the clamp. So, now I have to drain the radiator again tonight, and remove that hose, then take my wife's car to the auto store and find a replacement hose and new clamps.

I'll report back.
 

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dude, you really shouldnt drive that truck with it overheating. i know sometimes you may not have a choice but if you do have a choice let it sit untill you get it fixed, if that head warps your gonna have alot more to worry about. hopefully its just low coolant or something simple, if you insist on driving it you should remove the thermostat completely and make sure it full of coolant id rather have little or no heat in the cab for a few miles than too much heat in my engine for one minute. make sure its pumping water too. check your water pump.
 

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One with the farce
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So, the leak...i eventually tracked it down to a hose that is right above the alternator. I don't have a manual, so I don't even know what this is to...maybe the water pump?
If it's about 2" diameter, then it is the radiator hose, and it goes to the water pump housing (timing cover, same thing). There are two pieces to the lower rad hose, with a steel pipe that connects them that runs around the back of the alternator. Mine was leaking there too and dripped onto my alt, causing it not to work an the charge light to come on. :lol:

if you insist on driving it you should remove the thermostat completely and make sure it full of coolant id rather have little or no heat in the cab for a few miles than too much heat in my engine for one minute.
Exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah, well, I had to drive it home. It was snowing like crazy and I had no tools with me. I did pull over and let it cool down every time, and kept adding coolant. I know the dangers of driving with an overheated engine. It never got into the red...I always shut it down before that would happen.

So, here's the update. I figured out the hose I need, and you were right, it is the one that goes from the water pump to that pipe that wraps around and hooks onto the lower radiator hose. I have big hands, so I had to remove the air cleaner assembly and radiator overflow tank to be able to reach the hose well enough. So, when I got to it and finally got the clamps off, I couldn't get the hose to budge, it was stuck in place. So, I slit it with a razor blade and then it came off easy. I had to use a little all purpose grease to get the new hose to slide on as it was a tight fit. Once I got it on there and got the clamps in place I refilled the radiator, put the overflow tank back in place, put the air cleaner back in, and started the truck, with the rad cap off ( I also got a new rad cap just to be safe). I let it idle for about 5 minutes with the heater on full blast to let the air bubbles get out of the system. Then I layed under the truck for another 5 minutes with a light watching for leaks. Everything seemed in order, so I went for a drive to get the engine up to opp. temp. It was fine for about 15 minutes and then started to heat up. I went home, looked for leaks again and didn't see anything, so I went to bed frustrated. This morning on the way to work it stayed in the first 1/4 of the guage, the coolant level was good and there were no leaks that I could find, so I am keeping my fingers crossed now. I checked the action of the fan when I was under the hood last night and it seemed good, so I don't think the fan clutch could be bad. If it overheats again I am going to have to suspect the head gasket, which gives me instant diahrea just thinking about it. That repair is way over my head. I also need to replace my oil pan gasket, or rather, remove the pan and reseal it, as I am having a slight oil leak there.

ONe thing about driving an older truck....always something to fix. But, the toyota has never left me stranded, ever.
 

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if it does over heat again check the water pump , they are only about 20 bux new. if it doesnt help you may need to run a major flush through it. sometimes the water passafes get clogged by sediment and if youve ever used stop leak it can also stop up the passages especially the barley type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
update:
the truck was great going to and from work on thursday. I'm off friday, so it sat until sunday. I put a new piece of cardboard under it to monitor for leaks....as my driveway is so stained from my old truck you could never a new leak there. Sure enough, still leaking coolant. So, sunday night I pulled it back in the garage for a look. Appears I didn't tighten the hose clamp on the heater hose enough. Tightened that up and checked for leaks, nothing so far. Will check again tonight. When I was under there i noticed it looked like the water pump has been replaced...don't know how recently, but I could see the gasket material sticking out a little bit. Water pump does not appear to be leaking.

Besides the obvious oil in water, water in oil, are there other tell tale symptoms of head gasket failure? This truck has been slower than a snail since day one.
 

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One with the farce
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What usually causes the head gasket to blow is when the timing chain breaks the chain guides and rubs through the timing cover (because the timing set hasn't been changed soon enough), depositing all of the coolant into the oil pan.

Of course, when the engine has no coolant, it overheats, causing the head gasket to fail.
 

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IndyGo Ink
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Hey Slim...

What did you find out on your overheat problem? You got me curious, now...
 

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<^-~*PIMP*~-^>
1993
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yeah I was wandering myself how your truck was doing? When I first got my truck they had just replaced the timing chain, water pump, and cover. The first thing I noticed was that my Temp gauge would only move about an 1/8th of an inch... SO i replaced my t-stat and flushed the system, well after that it stayed at about 1/4-3/8 of an inch.. well now that its cold outside I turn the truck on and start to drive it will go up to about 1/4 inch away from the red and come back down to operating Temp..

Does that happen on any of your trucks? Because this is the second one I have had and my first one did the same thing it was a 94 4x4 with 159K (Stock chain, and pump) and this one is a 93 2x4 with 134K ( new chain, and pump)
 

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IndyGo Ink
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^^
I just changed my Tstat because the temp wouldn't come up at all until I drove 20 some miles. Took forever to get the truck to jump to overdrive waiting to come up to operating temp. New Tstat and the temp comes up to a little under halfway within a mile.
 

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One with the farce
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well now that its cold outside I turn the truck on and start to drive it will go up to about 1/4 inch away from the red and come back down to operating Temp..
yeah mine did that ALL the time, even in the warmer weather, but I didn't think anything of it because it always happened.
 

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89 Toyota 4X4
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Another obvious thing to check is the radiator. I have had this problem over the years with my 85 4 x 4 and after trying everything I could think of (water pump, fan clutch, hoses, thermostat) it ended up being a partiall plugged radiator. Once it warmed up, there wasn't enough circulation taking place in the radiator to keep it cooled down. New radiator from 1-800-radiator and the problem was fixed.
 

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I had a 22r that had a head gasket bad and was leaking water into the top of a cylinder. The water never got into the oil. It ran rough at idle and steamed a little out the tail pipe, but going down the road at normal speed the truck ran good. It was in the winter when this was going on and the problem was keeping water and antifreeze in it. I just used this truck for hunting and after a couple of hours the motor would start to heat and I would loose my heat inside then I would use just plain water off and on during the day to keep the radiator full. Then one night it got really cold and I didn't have enough anti-freeze in it and the water in the radiator froze and on the way to my hunt the radiator busted. I drove it all the way back home which was about 7 miles and it was so hot it cut off at my drive way. Still I put another radiator in it and it ran the same which I sold it to a buddy for 500.00 bucks. 2 wheel drive 1981.
 

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i drove mine like that from gainesville to ocala (50 miles) it died on me one time about 10 blocks from my house i had to crank it for about a minute before it finaly fired. after that i decided to rebuild the engine.it was weird cuz it had exhaust comming out of the radiator and it smelled like gas. it had a little water in the oil but not much.
 

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1990 4wd pickup
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ok im new ive changed my t-stat, drained flushed and refilled my rad, and im still overheating... both top and bottom rad hoses do not get hot when this happens, can anybody help me?im thinkin maybe the water pump???
 

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i don't want to challenge your intelligence but did you put the t-stat in the right way? if its in the right way, then i would suspect the water pump. just try the cheaper fix first.
 
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