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Discussion Starter #21
Hi CR :)
I will order book tomorrow.
I have disconnected the battery many times before - It does clear the cel-vcs but they come back on after 70 miles. And the smog tec will not do the smog test.He says i have to do a full drive cycle first.
On the ECM, I do not know what a pixie clip fuse is?.. Can you post a pic please?
Any pictures on your digital volt meter set up?
 

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Hold up a minute. If you did not reset the check engine light and complete the drive cycle, you need to do that first. You may have fixed it and not know it yet! The ECM needs to run verification tests while driving.
A pico fuse ( sorry if auto-correct changed it to pixie) is a small fuse with wire leads used on printed circuit boards. You can find them on Amazon. I typically use 0.5 amps or less.
Do you know what part number sensors you installed? The 2003 3.0 sensors are different part numbers from the 2004 3.3. You have a circuit code, so there is probably nothing wrong with the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I did not reset the check engine light. So just to be clear. I replace the sensor and never disconnected the battery. so the original check engine light is on. So I should disconnect the battery to reset the check engine light ? correct?

I do not have the number of the sensor number anymore :( . but for sure it is for a 2003 Toyota highlander. I do have the old one still.
Does someone have a working 2004 sensor that I can barrow to see if there is a diffidence between 2003 or 2004.

Thank you
 

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Reset the check engine light and do a drive cycle. There are several threads on the forum of how to do a drive cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
K, I did disconnected the battery both positive and negative for about 15 min. Then went on a test drive and on mile 1 the check engine and vcs light came on. :( .
 

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Well you did buy parts for a 2003. I would go to AutoZone and verify on the computer the same part numbers for 03-04. Time to R&R if not the same part number.
 

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According to Toyota documentation they are different. The 2003 use a can type sensor. The 2004 and up use a planar sensing element. The calibrations may not be the same and it could be the problem.
Do you have a receipt that shows the part number? The place you bought it from may have a record of the part number. Ask them.
Did you ask for the part for the 2003 V6 or did you ask for the part for the 3.3V6? If you asked for the 3.3 then you probably did get the right part and need to continue troubleshooting.
If you do not have the right part then I would get the right part before doing anything else.
Do you have the part you removed? Put it back in and see if you get a different code after resetting and doing a drive cycle. Do you know what the original code was?
If you are going to keep the car and like to learn to do your own work consider getting an OBD2 Bluetooth scanner so you can read codes and reset the check engine light. I like the OBDLINK MX+. Not the cheapest but I haven’t had trouble driving with it installed and it allows access to other modules on Toyota’s.
 

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A couple of other points- did you use a Denso or Toyota sensor?
Another advantage of getting a good scanner is you can verify the emissions monitors before taking it in for a smog check.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi cr
I put the old sensor back on -I know it is the right(sensor) one because it is the one it came with when brought new in 2003.

So as of now, After putting on the old sensor back on the original sensor the check engine light and the VCS light are off. Is it off because I disconnected the battery yesterday?
tempted to get it smog asap while the light is off.

ps. Doing research on obd2 scanner tonight
 

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Depends on how many free re-tests the smog shop will give you. You will need to finish a drive cycle to complete the monitors or you will fail the smog check again. There are good write-ups on the forum on the drive cycle. Check it out and try to complete it. This is where having a scanner really helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hi Cr and to all that helping
We are now in lock down here in California -I will post after I drive a full drive cycle of 100 miles and retest. Not sure when that will be because all unnecessary driving has been ban .:( and smog shops are closed
 

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I am also in CA.
If you are looking for a scanner I see that the OBDLINK MX+ seems to be out of stock, probably due to the shutdowns. I also have a KIWI3 that works well with OBDFusion app and gives the same functionality as OBDLINK MX+.
 
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