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Discussion Starter #1
Have not turned wrenches in a while I am doing the 4th gen 97 Camry 2.2 5S-FE, t/belt, crank seal, cam seal, notorious oil pump o ring and drive seal, pulleys etc.
Is it normal for the upper cam cap to not match with the head journal? It makes the seal looks out of alignment. I feel the like the seal is in its just throwing me off is all. Thanks
 

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Can you show a photo?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will have to do the photo when I get home, not my computer, just helping out a friend. Thanx John.
 

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Here's a photo (with the seal removed) from the DIY that is on this forum. As you can see it is the same as yours in that the cap doesn't match up exactly with the head journal:

294481


It might still be OK, but the seal, IMO, should be more flush with the journal as you can see in this photo below. I would remove the cap and position the seal a little farther in so that it's closer to being flush.

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For others viewing these posts, the DIY installs the seal with the valve cover in place and the cam cap installed. This is a very difficult way to do it and often results in the cam seal skinning or peeling as it is forced into position. The safer way to do it is by removing the valve cover and the cam cap. You'll get a new valve cover gasket while you're at it!

It looks like you installed the seal without removing the valve cover and cam cap and also managed to not skin the seal. You could try to tap it in more if you don't want to remove the valve cover. I don't know if you could simply unbolt the cam cap and if that would give you the slightest wiggle room to tap the seal in without skinning it. Some people manage to force it in without it peeling, but I didn't have such luck. If I ever have to do this job again, I'm definitely going to remove the valve cover and cam cap, or at the very least removing the cam cap bolts to see if it makes any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Again, appreciate ya, Stillrunning-------(Visions of Tom Hanks) -------I have come to the right place
 

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Normal. If you're talking about "skinning" the seal along the outer circumference as you drive it in... as in just a little thin curl of plastic... I thought that was normal. Most of the seals I've put in and watched other install over the years did that, and I haven't seen it cause a problem yet.
 

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That's happened to me, which is why I brought it up, but next time I'm going to remove the valve cover and bearing cap, because I would just be happier if the seal wasn't skinned/peeled.
 

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It almost looks like in the 1st picture the bore halves might have an offset? Or is it just the angle?

the bore should be full round. There are two locating dowels in the head around the 2 bolts.

Are all parts original? No mechanic went to the junkyard for parts like a cam cap? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do not know the complete history of this 4th gen, 4 cylinder, Camry as far as junk yard parts.
The bottom bore half definitely protrudes further than the top so the seal is measurably further in on the bottom as JohnGD has pointed it out (thanks)
I am probably going to get the V-C Gaskets and S-P O Rings as that's whats in the Fel-pro.any pros and cons as to not doing the half moons while I'm there.
 

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The bottom bore half definitely protrudes further than the top so the seal is measurably further in on the bottom as JohnGD has pointed it out (thanks)
From your pic this is normal as the inner bore where the seal seats should be aligned as this is bored assembled at the factory as I mentioned earlier. Possible that someone used cam bearing halves from other engine - I guess???

You should be able to run your finger around the inside of the cam bearing seal bore (no seal) and not feel any misalignment.
 

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"Skinning the seal" not an issue. You can buy a $20 seal driver off eBay for Toyota I4 and certain V6 (or the $120 Schley kit with a nice seal remover) that will drive it in to the correct depth, but if you can drive it in otherwise it should be flush as stated above.

Double-check the seal to make sure it's the right one. I did a timing belt job on a 3MZ a few months ago, the previous tech had installed the wrong seals (too thick) and they were leaking oil because they had worn by way of sprocket contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I looked up the seal on a Toyota parts site, the VIN was a must plus it was built in Kentucky, non Japanese.I also had the parts cat at Toyota look it up by Vin he had the same conclusion as I.
294613
If you plan on using a seal removal this o
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That is the same one I used the Lisle 58430
seal was tough to get out put some scratches around cam
 
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