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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Background:
Automatics are awesome. While the older automatics do a phenomenal job matching the shift pattern to the powerband when accelerating. You can find yourself wishing for a different gear at part throttle. Say flying through the entry of afew corners.
Low does fine for first gear. 2 can still downshift to 1st, and there is no way to hold third, or fourth. Annoying... So let's make this thing our bitch without spending hundreds on a transmission controller!
Theory:
If we can control the shift pattern. Our cars will have sex with us.
Instructions:

We'll need about $15-$20usd in basic electronic hardware.
  • 1 6-position, double pole rotary switch
  • 1 push button switch
  • 1 DPDT Relay
  • 3 15ohm 25 watt resistors
  • 4 SPST Relays
  • Around 10-15' of wiring (I used 20gauge)
For this example. We'll be using a 3vz-fe. For later transmissions, please check & understand that there may be an extra solenoid, or two that control other features. Most importantly the line-pressure. I wouldn't personally do this if your line-pressure is controlled by a solenoid instead of a throttle cable.

Shift Solenoid 1 = E10 (S1)
Shift Solenoid 2 = E9 (S2)
Torque Convertor Lock-Up Solenoid = E8 (SL)
Here is the shift pattern for S1 & S2 that derive the four gear ratios of the A540e transmission:

What we are going to do is change the wiring to the shift solenoids the control the gear selection (in drive) of the transmission. We are going to re-route the stock wiring through a DPDT relay (AKA Primary relay). When the relay is normally closed, they will pass the ECU signal as normal. When they are opened (powered). The relay will switch the circuit through a 15ohm 25 watt resistor to chassis ground. This will satisfy the stock ECU's desire to always see a 15ohm load from the solenoids.

From this point. The SPST relays (Secondary relays) will be spliced into the solenoid wiring AFTER the primary relay. When the relay is in the closed position, there will be no current to the solenoid. When the relay is tripped, it will supply the solenoid with current from a 12v supply from the common rail.
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For the torque convertor, we will splice one SPST relay(primary relay) onto the SL torque convertor lock-up. Normally Closed will pass the ECU signal as normal. Open will send the ECU's current through the remaining 15ohm 25watt resistor on it's way to chassis ground. Our last SPST relay (secondary relay) will connect as the others. Spliced in AFTER the previous relay. Open will connect a 12v supply from the common rail to the solenoid.
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I suggest the torque convertor secondary relay to be connected through a normal push-button switch, or toggle switch.
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The primary relay's coil supply should be put together & routed to the switch area. Route a wire from each of your secondary relay's coil to your switch area. You should have four wires. A line from S1, S2, SL, and the two first relays.
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Now for wiring our shift circuit!
Our 6-pole switch has 6 positions, and 14 connections. 2 connections will stand in the middle (Connect both of these together to a suitable 12v power supply.)
The remaining 12 connectors ring around the switch.
This is a double pole switch, so on any of our 6 positions, it will connect to two of the connectors. (Specifically, opposite sides.)

You can wire, to any way you wish. I chose:
Position 1 = Drive (normal ECU)
Position 2 = 1st gear
Position 3 = 2nd gear
Position 4 = 3rd gear
Position 5 = 4th gear
Position 6 = Drive (normal ECU)
To do this, from your starting position:
  1. Empty, opposite empty
  2. Connect to S1 (solenoid 1) and first relays, opposite empty
  3. Connect to S1 and first relays, opposite connect to S2 (solenoid 2)
  4. Connect to first relays, opposite connect to S2
  5. Connect to first relays, opposite empty
  6. Empty, opposite empty
You can obviously do your own variants. Such as one position holding a gear, and locking the convertor. I would keep it a separate function myself...
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Ta-da! We now have the ability to successfully bypass the stock control whenever we want, and select any gear we want (Including normal Automatic features), and at the same time controlling the torque converter lock-up how we want.
Anytime the 6-pole switch is in positions 2-5. The Primary relays will swap the ECU to see ground. And the secondary shift solenoids will be operated in the manner of gear selection. The Torque convertor will operate at-will of your switch.
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To eliminate any confusion:
How Automatic Transmissions Work
How Torque Converters Work
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Other Articles in the Series:
Part I Quicker Transmission Shifting
Part II Adding Airflow
Part III Taking Advantage of Intake/Exhaust Upgrades
Part IV Cheaply Monitoring the ECU & A/F
Part V How to pick up MPG, and sleep with her too!
Part VI Acing Aerodynamics
Part VII Cheap Water Injection
Part VIII Electronic Transmission Controller
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wow complicated stuff but i want to be sure on what this does, so your saying by a switch im able to shift gears when I want or its for?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Control what gear you are in, and the torque convertor lock-up clutch, or just let the stock ECU handle it.
 

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ok so it controls what gears you are in but im just confusing it with the setup Tony the tiger has which is by a flick of the switch i can put the gear in 2 and it would stay in that gear no matter what and only way to go to 1st would be to put in L and also by putting in D it only stays on 3rd gear doesnt downshift at all and when i want to stay on 4th i turn on OD and it would stay on that gear no matter and if you want the normal automatic functions just flick the switch back and thats what I'm talking about is it like that or can you explain to me how it is if you don't mind just trying to learn here.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tony's is IPT's. It works the same way, it's just in a pretty box. And his isn't a flick of the switch. The IPT controller is a series of button switches that engauge each gear instead of a single rotary switch. You could easily replace a single rotary switch with afew buttons. I just think this is a much slicker, less complicated way of doing it. (You could also do the same thing with a 4 position DPDT toggle switch for that matter.)




To answer youre question.
You can wire, to any way you wish. I chose:
Position 1 = Drive (normal ECU)
Position 2 = 1st gear
Position 3 = 2nd gear
Position 4 = 3rd gear
Position 5 = 4th gear
Position 6 = Drive (normal ECU)
There is no need for another switch. The way I wired it, if you are in position 1, or 6. The TCCU controls the transmission.
 

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Hot Diggity Dog that's what I wanted all along the ability to shift gears when I want and still have my normal automatic mode damn but this is complicated to do but first I dont understand on locking the torque converter?? thanks for the help definately gonna do this.:D
 

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Canyon Killer
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what are you doing with the torque converter? I dont get that whole part? What is it that is being done to it in the different positions
 

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My other car is a Camry
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Tony's is IPT's. It works the same way, it's just in a pretty box. And his isn't a flick of the switch. The IPT controller is a series of button switches that engauge each gear instead of a single rotary switch. You could easily replace a single rotary switch with afew buttons. I just think this is a much slicker, less complicated way of doing it. (You could also do the same thing with a 4 position DPDT toggle switch for that matter.)
Actually, I do not have IPT's transmission control box...lol When I had my transmission built by IPT as prototype, the control box wasn't even available yet.

I have my AEM EMS standalone controlling the automatic transmission with fully mappable transmission shift tables, but I have a flick switch that lets me choose between AEM's auto mode and full manual mode.

My manual mode consists of using the factory's shifter as trigger circuits. The circuitry is the same, but I didn't use a rotary knob switch. I have a series of diodes which allowed me to control each gear accordingly with the On/Off combinations using the stock shifter.

My circuitry will also throw an error code as well for those still on stock ECU on a '94-up 1MZ-FE... You will have to wire in the correct resistors to fool the ECU that the shift solenoids are still there, and you must have a self-resetting ECU "blackbox" that prevents the ECU from storing memory on the automatic transmission's operation. After the 2nd or 3rd driving trip, the automatic ECU will detect improper and non-matching RPM's vs vehicle speed according to gear, and it will throw an error code and go into limp. The blackbox is there to fool the ECU so that it is always running at its first trip.

For my car, the gear is as follows;

Main switch --> Manual Mode
L = 1st gear
2 = 2nd gear
D = 3rd gear
O/D (push switch at my shifter) = 4th gear
Lock up is controlled automatically via AEM EMS based on VSS, TPS and timer circuit (so lock-up will not "hunt" under quick throttle movements). Basically, if I put my car in "2", the car will start in 2nd gear. If I put it in "D" from a standstill, the car will accelerate from 3rd gear and so forth. I usually drive with manual mode, and I just shift accordingly; although my shifter is getting quite a work out during traffic jams so I slap it back to auto mode sometimes :)


Main switch --> Auto mode. In auto mode, it runs off whatever I have tuned on the AEM EMS.
 

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Still confused...
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^^ that.... is absolutely incredible :thumbsup:
 

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1994 5S-FYOU!
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I think next summer some of us socal guys should get together and work on these for our cars...

This would take a lot of knowledge and a lot of work, but I think if we put our heads together we could get something going! :thumbsup:
 

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VVT-1MZ + ES5spd
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bump for a question. since that diagram is for the a540 would everything be the same on the 41 (1mz)?
 

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" My manual mode consists of using the factory's shifter as trigger circuits. The circuitry is the same, but I didn't use a rotary knob switch. I have a series of diodes which allowed me to control each gear accordingly with the On/Off combinations using the stock shifter "

Hi Tony


As per your post above, I would like to do the same thing to control my shift from the stock shifter and not buttons and switches like the others. Can you send me a diagram and the parts list to do this.

email : [email protected]


Thanks
 

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HI,
Thanks for the tip. I want to do this on my Previa. Im wondering what your wire colours are? I know that mine are green-yellow stripe(conn 1B), brown-yellow stripe(14B) and brown-white stripe(15B) but which wire is which solenoid? I can't find that info anywhere.

Thanks

Added: I saw that your diagram has the wire colours but the only matching one is the TC Green/yellow.
 

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I like to shift in and out of neutral a lot.

I need to go from od to neutral without rowing through the switches.

How would you wire "go to neutral switch" The rest, I understand.

Awesome mod by the way. And I figured out my wire colors.

thx.
 

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Rolla newb
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Sorry to bring back an old thread, I would like to make a recommendation. Its called the Suprastick V4. It can be used as a piggy back computer for your TCM or as a Stand alone. Its used on Supra dragsters as well. Really simple to use. Basically you can hook it up, go for a drive in all different conditions such as WOT, part throttle, stop and go, etc.. and it will record all the inputs (tps, rpm, speed, gear, etc...). Then you can modify the maps so it can shift how you desire (like down shifting earlier, or locking the TC at WOT, etc...). Another awesome feature is that you can connect it to either paddles, switche(s), to manually shift. I have this on my weekend car (turbo nissan, 4sp auto) and love it. I have the manual wires hooked up to my cruise control buttons so I can shift without even moving my hands (just thumbs). Wiring is not hard at all, tps, speed sensor, rpm, power, shift solenoids, and TC solenoid (if u want it to control this).
Some of the fellow nissan guys on our forums also connected a display to it (has a serial port) which shows the gear you are in. Theres also a built in WOT switch that u can use to trigger anything you want (i.e. nitrous)..

Hope that's useful info, just trying to share some knowledge iv gained over at the Nissan forums =)
 
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