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I can't help you with your question, but I would like to hear more regarding your cooler install, such as model number, how you installed it, etc. I'm getting a few miles on my truck now and think an ATF cooler might be just the ticket to help extend the AT life.

Thanks...
For the most part I just followed this sticky:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61-2nd-generation-2005/233458-my-hayden-678-transmission-cooler-install-06-v6.html

The cooler model was the same, Hayden 678. I did change how I mounted the unit and also how I ran the return line from the new cooler to the transmission. My mods are included in that thread near the end.
 

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trlong1,

it seems I remember reading an article on the interweb about a symptom like this. It seems I was trying to find opinions on flushing the transmission and found an article about it. I think I just googled A750E flushing..or something like that.

EDIT
Found the article: http://www.gearsmagazine.com/view.ashx?article=9df300bc-7072-436d-af4b-f3979ac43fd7
"The most common complaint we hear on the ATRA HotLine about this transmission is it falls out of gear when coming to a stop, then slams back into gear, sometimes so hard that it feels like someone has rear-ended you."
This sounds a lot like either the AC idle bump/surge, or a driveshaft slip yoke that needs lube. Search these for more symptom descriptions/fixes.
 

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Just did this at 45,000 miles. Trans fluid wasn't too bad. Transfer case fluid was pretty clean, front and rear difs were horrible and had about 3/16" of sludge sticking to the magnetic drain plugs. Precision Toyota in Tucson wanted $340 to flush trans (13qt of atf ws was included) and $55-$75 for the other gearboxes.
to be considered....if you live in a warm climate like I do (102 degrees today) and you drive the truck to the dealership in the morning plan on setting a couple of fans under truck and killing about 5 HOURS for all that metal to get below 115 degrees so you can do the temp check!
Just did this again before road trip tom. At 45k i only did one drain and fill. This time I did three drain and fills. 3.5qt+3.5qt+4qt. Let it cool (summer is difficult, let sit all night after last fill) shunt OBD2 pins 4 &13, enter trans level check mode, drain excess when light comes on.
I have graduated cylinder to measure what I drained out....to the ounce of what i put it.
BTW, the mityvac fluid evacuator plus and the toyota transmission adapter makes this a much easier job. I love that thing. MV7201
Here is the before and after samples....66K miles now.
 

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Finally got around to doing mine yesterday. I did a full system flush of the entire 3 gallons by disconnecting the ATF line that connects to the top of the radiator and pulled the hose down and out in front of the skid plate and run that into a bucket. I then connected a hose to the inlet of the radiator and connected that to a pump I used to pump in the new fluid. The old fluid coming out was black. New going in was bright red.

I pumped out the old fluid two quarts at a time by starting the motor for about 15 seconds or so. I had to do it that way because it pumps out quicker than I could pump it back in.

Some thoughts. My first idea was to have the tranny suck in the new fluid but that did not work so next I tried gravity feed which was too slow. You have to pump it in. Next time I'm getting a higher velocity pump to do this job quickly.
 

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Update with new method

I did a flush on my GF's 4Runner last weekend. I didn't want to go through manually pumping the ATF back in like I did on the Taco so I got this cheap chemical sprayer at WalMart for $8.50. It works better than I even hoped for pumping ATF. All you do is give it a few pumps, turn it on , kick back pop open a cold one and let the pressure do the work. I have it plumbed into the atf lines that go to the tranny cooler. Simple.
 

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Finally got around to doing mine yesterday. I did a full system flush of the entire 3 gallons by disconnecting the ATF line that connects to the top of the radiator and pulled the hose down and out in front of the skid plate and run that into a bucket. I then connected a hose to the inlet of the radiator and connected that to a pump I used to pump in the new fluid. The old fluid coming out was black. New going in was bright red.

I pumped out the old fluid two quarts at a time by starting the motor for about 15 seconds or so. I had to do it that way because it pumps out quicker than I could pump it back in.

Some thoughts. My first idea was to have the tranny suck in the new fluid but that did not work so next I tried gravity feed which was too slow. You have to pump it in. Next time I'm getting a higher velocity pump to do this job quickly.
Great work, I just tried this using this method but changed it up a little. I first bought 5 quarts of ATF WS tranny fluid from the dealer. I then disconnected the top tranny hose at the top of the radiator and pulled it down into a bucket. I then connected some clear tubing ( the tubing that's used on HVAC condensate pumps for the drain) and connected it to where I disconnected the top tranny hose. I also got a empty spray bottle from The Home Depot ( it was a grey one made for solvents) ( the clear bottles didn't work cuz the end nozzle is too small) and you know the end nozzle where you can turn clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the spray with, you take off the end piece and plug the end of the clear hose into the end of the nozzle. It's a perfect fit. Once you have the hose in place you can take off the bottle of the sprayer and put the spray handle price into a full quart of tranny fluid and start pumping the fluid in once you start the engine and drain a few quarts out. I drained 1gal out and then put 4 quarts back in. Worked like a charm.

FYI,
4 quarts = 1 gallon
3.78 liters = 1 gallon

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Jump the #4 and #13 pins on the On Board Diagnostics (OBD) white connector located near the drivers kick panel with a short piece of wire and start the engine (if not already started). There are 16 pins on the white OBD connector (8 top and 8 bottom). Number 1 is the top left corner, with number 8 on the top right corner. Number 9 is on the left lower corner, number 16 on the lower right corner. Start at number 1 connector and continue counting the connectors in the same order as you would read a book.







Several of the dash warning lights will begin to flash (normal). Then shifting from "P" to "N" (pausing briefly in "N"), began a series (six shifts) of "N" to "D" to "N" cycles with the shifter. After the 6 shifts are completed the red AT TEMP light should illuminate for 2 seconds (important to note). Place the AT back into "P" (light will illuminate again for 2 seconds) and let the truck idle to warm the fluid. It is important to note that the light illuminated verifying that the truck entered "Temp Check Mode". Without this verification, you may wait all day for a light to illuminate without the truck actually being in mode.

When the AT TEMP light illuminates constantly, the fluid is at the correct temperature for checking. If the AT TEMP light should begin to start blinking, this means the fluid temp has surpassed the allowable range and you must shut off the truck and let the system cool. Retry again after a 1/2 hour break.
I'm planning doing a full tranny flush on my 2012 Sienna XLE which also has a "sealed" tranny. I wonder that can I use the "pin 4 and pin 13 jump" method to check tranny temp on my van.

Thanks in advance !
 

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Mention is made above about using an infrared thermometer - IR - for determining fluid temp.

Shining black surfaces such as those on oil/transmission fluid drain pans are most difficult to measure due to emissivity. The term emissivity is discussed in the URL below or you can google it yourself.

Cheap $39 Harbor Freight infrared thermometers give readings that are all over the place. If you wish to use one of these, figure on spending about $150.00 to $200.00 for one that takes emissivity into account. That units owners manual should provide clarification.


http://www.grainger.com/content/qt-370-infrared-thermometers
 

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Does anyone know if this hold true for 2016 or more so the 2017 Sienna with the new 8 speed tranny? I am considering buying a 17' sienna

thanks!
 

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Hi there, I'm new here and have a quick question.

I'm curious, in your write up you describe us having to turn the truck off and then squirt more oil into the trans if no "small trickle" is present. Then restarting the whole process with A/T temp mode process. If I'm understanding this correctly, all the light is telling me is that the oil temp is correct to check it via the plug on the bottom of the pan.

Why do I need to turn the truck off and restart the temp mode? Why can't I just squirt oil in while the truck is running till I get said "small trickle" out of the check port?

I'm not seeing how it should matter? Oil is circulating and from what I can tell right into the oil pan then it's picked up from there and moved around. I suppose you could argue maybe you could pick up air and get it into the system?

Just trying to understand why I need to turn the truck off.

Thanks
 

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Whats the average fill amount for the 3rd gen Highlander? After reading numerous posts it appears 3.5-4 qts. Like to see more feedback from others on the amount used.
Thank You
Jim
 

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Whats the average fill amount for the 3rd gen Highlander? After reading numerous posts it appears 3.5-4 qts. Like to see more feedback from others on the amount used.
Thank You
Jim
In the 3rd gen highlander sticky at the top of the forum is a DIY Maintenance thread. Click on the transaxle link under the Powertrain section. Quick link to that thread: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/333-3rd-generation-2014/676873-read-first-diy-maintenance-modifications.html
 

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In the 3rd gen highlander sticky at the top of the forum is a DIY Maintenance thread. Click on the transaxle link under the Powertrain section. Quick link to that thread: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/333-3rd-generation-2014/676873-read-first-diy-maintenance-modifications.html
Thank you for the polite response. I read over many threads and posts and I guess this was the last one I read. I appreciate you putting me back on track back to the 3rd Gen section. This is a nice sticky and a great write up.
Jim
 

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Did the Transmission oil drain and refill a few weeks ago. I followed the Service Manual to get into "Temperature Check Mode" to check the TransFluid level.
What I wasn't sure is if the ScangaugeII TFT can be used to get the reading '46°C (115°F) to 56°C (130°F)' range required to accurately check the fluid level.

Note: I have a 2006 4.0L V6
1. Is the SGII TFT displaying the Torque Converter temp or Pan temp?
2. Is the "Temperature Check Mode" reading from TorqueConverter temp or Pan Temp? *IIRC I read somewhere it is the Pan Temp?
3. Is what the SGII TFT displaying the same as the "Temperature Check Mode"?

Basically, I want to check my fluid level again in the next week. Instead of doing the jumper and PNDNDNDNP "Temperature Check Mode", can I just rely on the SGII TFT display and ensure it is between 115°F & 130°F before checking the fluid level?
 

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Upon a weekend study of changing trans fluid/filter my plan is to
(edit) -REMOVE THE FILL PLUG first,
drop the pan in a big enough drain-pan because I won't be removing any drain or level check plugs,
-(nullifies the slight risk of stripping the threads when reinstalling them),
change the filter,
clean the magnets and pan,
reinstall pan and new gasket,
fill from above through the engine compartment, (as one post implied is possible),
with same amount removed -which should be approximately 4 to 4 (1/2) quarts.

Given there would also be a add/full line 'if' this trans had a dipstick, my guess 4 quarts would be near the low side and 4 (1/2) near the high side. From what I see there should have been enough of these done someone should be able to verify very close to the proper refill amount after dropping the pan to change the filter.

Yes, there may be some risk that it is not at a proper level, and if there was an abnormal condition I could always run through checking the level.

Any observation of a fault in my plan is welcome, especially if it saves me from a mistake, but the way I see it is always change the trans fluid/filter on used vehicle if maintenance history is unknown or out of spec.
 

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Cross posting from the 4Runner section for more input or thought on fluid replacement volume? Not that I can't follow the bring to temp/drain procedure, just trying to keep it simple.



Just more I wanted to elaborate on, but didn't want first post overly complicated.

Get pan gasket out and flatten it out as soon as possible, thinking some gasket designs allow the pan bolts to be held in place, also holding the gasket in place as you reinstall the pan.

What really needs to be answered is how much fluid to replace if only dropping the pan and changing the filter, cleaning the magnets and pan, then re-assemble. I'd think between all of us interested in doing our own we could figure it out pretty close and simplify the procedure by omitting the 'bring to 104 to 113(?) degrees and drain till slow drip' step.

Which is another good point, trans-fluid does expand at higher temperatures, so a drain and fill with filter would also have to cool the fluid to similar temp as volume replaced to be more precise.

And that's just how precise must it be? From the Tacoma thread you can see many have not gotten it right stepping through the proper procedures. But I didn't think all that's necessary. Replace equivalent volume should be close enough given it was likely done close but not necessarily precise in a previous service.


(EDIT) Just to add when I typed 'From the Tacoma thread you can see many have not gotten it right' I didn't mean any folk here, I mean in the entirety of people checking trans-fluid levels without a dipstick. I thank the many here who have helped enlighten me.



And if level was adjusted while it was too hot previously, you'd likely have less than 4 quarts removed once you've cooled it enough to minimize the expansion.

If it's got a filter, change it.

I think it is going to be between 4 to 4 (1/2) quarts, but won't actually know unless it was right at the last service. You tell me because I am not pulling any drain plug, just dropping the whole pan, something I learned long ago and was reinforced by shop who stripped the drain plug re-installing it on my 1984 Toyota van.
 

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Just going to copy/paste from my fluid/filter and semi-flush drain and fill from the 4Runner forum (2005 4Runner 4.0 with 4wd). I'm hungry, but now have what seems to be a happy transmission. It'll be in 2 post so it's easier to follow.

Just starting, going to paste these specs from related forums;

A750E Auto Trans.
Transmission Fill
Repair Fill Amount
Transmission pan and drain plug
removal 1.3 L (1.37 US qts, 1.14 lmp qts)
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
Torque converter removal 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)
Entire transmission assembly 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)

- Overflow plug torque = 15 ft/lbs
- Fill plug torque = 29 ft/lbs
- Drain plug torque = 15 - 20 ft/lbs

. Using Valvoline Max, seems the multi-viscosity is the issue and Valvoline has that covered "Engineered with a unique blend of viscosity modifiers and base oils to provide better oil flow at low temperatures and greater film protection at higher temperatures".

First remove fill plug, done. (To mention my fill plan, got a 1/4 inch inner diameter plastic plumbing tube and a Watts part # Pl230 Nylon hose barb elbow with small funnels at Menard's for about $7. Of course elbow should go in fill plug hole while routing tube to funnel tacked at right front wheel well, either going to plastic clamp it to somewhere on the vehicle there, or bungee strap it to a small step ladder there.)

Did remove drain plug, as much as I didn't want to, frame cross member would get soaked otherwise just removing the pan. On the 2005 v6 the exhaust is not under the pan.

Should mention I think this spec closely resembles pan gasket and filter change;
Transmission valve body removal - 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)

But, also find it here
http://purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007%2...d/01600210.pdf

Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts)


So I'm guessing to fill between 4.12 US qts and 4.54 US qts, And I got out about 4.2 qts not including residual in the drain pan and filter.

Gravity flow worked well, recommend getting a bigger elbow and tube, mine was 1/4 inner diameter coupled to a 3/8 tube attached to a funnel, could be run through the engine compartment but my splash shield is missing behind the right front tire, so I attached the funnel to a step ladder and filled from there; worked fine except slow with the 1/4 inch tube.

Next the drain plug torque is real important, seems there has been many stripped from other forums I've read, I am only going to 13 ft lbs and that in inch pounds is 156 in lbs. Yes, do get an inch pound torque wrench.

Next, I did a drain and fill after running the engine for 2 minutes and going shifting the gears 4 times. More dirty fluid came out, and now I just have to go fill it with about the 3 quarts for drain and fill.
 
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