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Yep, drain and fill was just a little over 3 quarts, just finished the extra drain and fill, and am satisfied the 2 minutes and 4 shifts through the gears did remove more dirty fluid sufficient enough to make it worthwhile.

Drain plug torque, I just went to 140 inch pounds which equals about 12 ft lbs, seemed that may have been even pushing it, but I don't have any leaks and it's tight.

Another thing, though I may have complained about the 1/4 inch fill tube, maybe filling slower also allowed that it didn't drip while I was filling, so that may be good enough, your results may vary.

The original pan gasket was cork, so now I got the rubber one from the WIX filter kit #58136 at O'Reilly, Auto Zone gave me the Duralast kit TF348, but it turned out to be the wrong filter.

Overall, easy job, to summarize,
remove 24mm fill plug first, then 14mm drain plug,
drain fluid,
reinstall plug,
remove 20 12mm pan bolts and remove pan knowing there is still about a quart of fluid in the pan.
Then 4 14mm bolts on the filter, change out for new filter.
Clean the pan and magnets, I only had quick start fluid handy, seems to have work fine, so I let them dry then wiped again with dry cloth.
Reinstall pan, rubber gasket holds 20 bolts in place while you install.
Route fill tube with elbow to the front either out the wheel well or through to engine compartment, fill approximately 4.2 to 4.3 quarts of fluid.

My semi-flush drain and fill;
let idle for 2 minutes shifting through all the gears 4 times
Drain and fill.
Where I estimated 2 minutes was from the examples that used the transmission fluid cooling lines said about 7 seconds would produce about a quart, well I just put in 4.3 quarts and it would be circulated up from the pan, but not all would be fresh fluid at some point. So 2 minutes of circulation was just a guess, your results may vary.

NowI must go put on the fill plug and make a trip to Auto Zone to get a refund. I don't think it was the clerks fault, I think it is in their system wrong;

IT FITS. This product is a fit for your: 2005 Toyota Truck 4 Runner 4WD 4.0L FI DOHC 6cyl


Part Number: TF348
Alternate Part Number: TF348
 

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Today I don't think I needed the elbow, I should have just put the fill tube in, tacked with a plastic clamp at the exhaust shield in 2 places to keep it in place. That's what I was doing, just had to check to see it was in place before poring the fluid anyhow.

To further explain the clamp, just using a plastic clamp around the tube to hold it in place and clipping it on the exhaust shield was handy and didn't hurt it.

I was thinking the elbow would make sure it drained down, but it would have no where else to go as long as the tube is in the fill hole at least past the threads. Something to know for next time, and the bigger tube 3/8 or probbably even 1/2 inch inner diameter would have been fine.

As before, you result may vary but given you have around 4 feet of tube, you can easily gravity fill this transmission.

And just to mention the heat, it is never hot because I always let the fluid drip for a long time duration. There's no reason to burn yourself on the exhaust. It's mid 70 degrees here, and I only ran the vehicle long enough to put it up on the ramps, then 2 minutes for the semi-flush-drain and fill, it ran for 2 minutes, but I let it drain for an hour. There was no drive down the block to get it up to operational temperature, in fact, I didn't do that to least disturb the dirt that could be settled in the pan.

Rhino Ramps--I got the big ones (16,000 lbs) because they're wider and it's quick, I just push the vehicle back the little it will move in park to wedge the ramp under the tire at the beginning of the ramp and they almost never move, (yes I grew up in the steel ramp era...)though wedging them may work on steel ramp too.

And while I am here, might just want to mention the information of why it is important to change the filter, from;
http://www.wixfilters.com/Products.aspx?ct=phtf

Contaminants can enter your transmission fluid system in the manufacturing process. They can also enter the transmission through the vent, or through the dipstick and fill tube during fluid level checking/filling. Most of the time, however, contaminants are the result of normal wear. These contaminants consist of metal chips and flakes from gears and bushings and fine fibrous material from clutch facings.

WIX transmission filters protect transmissions against contaminants in the transmission fluid system. Proper filtration helps improve transmission life by minimizing wear and preventing sticking and scoring of sensitive shift control valves. In the event of a part failure, the filter also guards against secondary damage to other parts and thus helps to minimize repair costs.
 

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Just to reiterate on fluid volume, which is going to be important to some for whatever reason one is omitting the fluid level check procedure, could be justified, lazy, or like me indifferent as long as result is close enough, and I like to think I am within 2 tenths of ideal level, and there are probably many more that are fine being a little further out of spec range but close enough not to have impairing symptoms, and from the 2 differing specs mentioned earlier;

Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)

Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts);

I make the assumption that valve body removal is done while still on the vehicle and is just on more level beyond filter swap, but not being a transmission specialist, I would defer to one more informed.

Doing the math;
4.54 - 4.12 = 0.42 quarts difference (in specs by the professionals giving valve body removal instructions)

0.42 divided by 2 = 0.21,

so my guess is
4.12 + 0.21 = 4.33 quarts fill for pan and filter, approximately.

4.33 quarts to fill be within tolerance at 0.21 quarts either way.

I think that is sensible, also given how much fluid is in the valve body and what how long it is given to drip in either case.
 

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All the fuss about finding the exact level has me thinking...

Let's assume that you drop the pan and change the filter. @Supersonic 's post tells me that you should add ~4.33 US quarts to refill.
Why not add 5 US quarts, and then start the engine, bring it up to temperature, and then remove the fluid level check bolt. If the transmission is overfull, and it should be, ATF should flow out of the check tube until the level is EXACTLY where it should be. What damage will the transmission experience if it is over full for 10 minutes while coming up to temperature?
 

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I think that works too. The drain and fill says "fill the AT with approximately 1/3 quart more than what drained out", so at
3 quarts volume you'd be over 0.3
and at ~
~4.33 quarts volume you'd be over ~0.57
-not a huge difference in the pan level overfill.

And your getting new filter satisfaction. So easy on the V6.

On the V8, spray the exhaust bolts with penetrate a couple times a day or two before you start. Toyota's exhaust fasteners are usually much more cooperative after that. Impacts wrenches can be fast, but I'd recommend doing by hand so you don't twist off things that are not easily replaced.

Yes I did seen the Tacoma video and many more video's before I started, I watch TV better than I do anything else...,
the WIX kit had the rubber gasket and it holds all 20 bolts in place before you position it to reinstall, thus allowing to keep the gasket in place as you start any of the 20 bolts. Looked like Tacoma had the rubber gasket too, couldn't tell, but the Eric the car guy video on 2004 V8 4Runner is doing a cork gasket, and they can be difficult. Neoprene is also what I've heard the rubber gasket material referred to, my trans pan gasket of choice.
 

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Can anyone give me (or point me to) the Toyota Part Number for the OEM transmission filter and gasket for an '09 Tacoma TRD Offroad with the factory towing package (4-liter V6, 5 speed automatic, 4WD)?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Can anyone give me (or point me to) the Toyota Part Number for the OEM transmission filter and gasket for an '09 Tacoma TRD Offroad with the factory towing package (4-liter V6, 5 speed automatic, 4WD)?
Answering my own question for posterity;
A750F/E - 5 SPEED TRANSMISSION 4WD

Filter:
35330-60050, Auto Trans Filter
35168-60010, Auto Trans Pan Gasket

Gaskets:
12157-10010, DIFFERENTIAL DRAIN PLUG GASKET - QTY 3 TWO FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL AND 1 FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
90430-24003, DIFFERENTIAL DRAIN PLUG GASKET - QTY 1 FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
90430-A0003, TRANSFER CASE DRAIN PLUG GASKET - QTY 2 TRANSFER CASE
 

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Don't forget these:

Transmission pan drain plug and overfill plug gaskets(same) - 35178-30010

Transmission fill plug o-ring - 90301-15004
 

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I did the Filter Gasket and Fluid using AISIN's 0WS fluid and a WIX filter kit at 77K miles. The 4 quarts of fluid that came out was brown. The magnets were not too bad, and there were no sparkles (metal) in the fluid, so I think this was just worn clutch pads,

I was surprised that when the vehicle was assembled that Toyota had apparently sprayed the transmission body with gasket adhesive. I have owned the truck since it had 160 miles on it. I tried to wash this crap off with MAF sensor cleaner (it is what I had on hand), but I could also see that where the adhesive was sprayed there was corrosion of the aluminum of the transmission body. There really was no need for adhesive, at least with the WIX gasket (included) because the bolt holes are slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolts, and I was easily able to install all 20 bolts through the pan and into the gasket before I put the pan in place. Alignment was EASY.

I torqued everything down to the following specs:
7 foot pounds for the filter bolts.
3 foot pounds for the pan gasket itself seemed a little light, so I bumped this up to 5 foot pounds.
15 foot pounds for both the drain plug and the fluid level check bolt. Both got new crush washers.
25 foot pounds for the fill plug.

I added 5 quarts of fluid, and opened the check bolt before starting the truck. As soon as the check plug was removed fluid gushed out, so I put the plug back in. I guess that I lost about a tenth of a quart.

I then started the engine, and initiated the AT TEMP check (jumping pins 4 & 13, and shifting between D and N). After the AT TEMP indicator told me that the fluid was up to temp, I opened the check plug and NOTHING CAME OUT (engine running, vehicle in P)...

I then drained all of the practically empty bottles into one bottle and added what I could scrounge (about 2 tenths of a quart) into the transmission. Hopefully, that will be enough.

I plan to "spill & fill" again at 100K.
 

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You could also try Lucas Oil Automatic Transmission Fluid Conditioner as a top off;
https://lucasoil.com/products/transmission-products/lucas-oil-automatic-transmission-fluid-conditioner

Formulated with the finest base oils and special Lucas additive package, Lucas Oil's Automatic Transmission Fluid Conditioner is designed to PREVENT slipping, leaks and wear to provide smooth, quiet operation while conditioning seals to extend the life of the transmission.
Key Benefits


  • Improves shifting
  • Reduces noise and shudder
  • Compatible with all ATF fluids, conventional and synthetic
  • Extends fluid life
  • For use in new and older transmission
  • Will not void new car warranty
  • Extends automatic transmission life
This link has that back of the bottle where it says
"one bottle overfill will not be harmful" and
"not for CVT transmissions"
https://lucasoil.com/media/k2/galleries/336/zhd-automatic-trans-fluid-conditioner.jpg

I added about 15 oz, the bottle is 20 oz. At first I was going to add half the bottle, but then I figured 2/3 to 3/4 would be tolerable being Lucas would allow the full 20 ounces. I also used 3/8 clear tube, 4 to 6 ft length attached to a funnel for gravity feed.

I never checked the level at temp, thinking there is so much room for error that even if one does the procedure the level still may not be correct. To further explain, I used the valve body removal spec for fluid replacement in comparison to what I and other had got when removing the pan and filter, about 4.3 quarts.

The Lucas Trans conditioner was about $11, but for the benefits if all works as advertised, it could be priceless. My Transmission has preformed well except I seem to remember before the filter service it had a more noticeable jerk when putting it into gear.

Just wanted to add/suggest getting a inch-pound torque wrench too, the foot-pound having longer leverage is just too easy for accidentally twisting bolts off. Convert everything to inch-pounds and go up in gradual increments if necessary. Must admit I've never used a digital torque wrench, but from past experience I'd rather be too cautious.
 

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Quick question.

Last night I had to replace the auto trans metal cooler lines, so figured I’d replace all the AT oil. I’ve done everything correctly and was able to get into temp check mode.

After entering temp check mode several times, every time I checked the level either non or just a drop would come out. Then I would go back to putting in more, but once the full plug was back in and the level plug was out it would begin to spill out, even after not putting more in. Not sure what to do.

Should I just add in more without removing the level check plug and then enter temp check mode again?

Thanks in advance!

Trevor
 
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