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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Long time since I was active on the forum.

But this morning found my trunk open, fold rear down seat opened, 2 car doors partly open, a knife on the seat, wires hanging down by driver feet. a little trap door below the iginition area opened and even a little vent down there open. The lock cylinder barely looked deformed. And when I removed the trim, I found the two of the thicker wires that traced back from the switch behind the ignition partly cut.

While the key turns all the way, its like it never get to the ignition, or start positions. No beeps and lights, zero starter motor

Sadly they even took my security lug nut.

i' mostly mad and hurt. All ready enough problems with COVID19 virus.

Found a diagram, and I'm going to trouble shoot more thoroughly. Unplugged a harness and jumped between white w/ Red and Black / w white. And the starter motor turned. I believe i've got to jumper other connections as well, or maybe remove the electrical part of the switch.

Any way, I"m glad there is a forum,
 

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Well, that sucks! I hate thieves with a passion. Good luck figuring out how to undo the mess they made.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the reply. Really do appreciate it. Feeling down about this thief/vandalism.

These are the wires that I'm inspecting, and looking up diagrams to.

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The yellow wire, going to the hairball of wires on the bottom left, goes to a module labeled "day time running" lights
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Key unlock warning switch? With key in lock cylinder, there should be continuity between wires, should be (open) if key is out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I don't know how to fix this, but I observe.




Open Door icon lights with open door
Open door sounds with the key in the ignition, so the switch in the post above is working. (key unlock warning switch works)
Key turned to accessory position, and the vehicle electrical system doesn't act normal. i.e the windows motors don't work, I hear no familiar beeps, the cabin fan does not operate, etc.
If I turn the Key to start position, airbag warnings icon comes on for 7 seconds. Nothing else. Starter does not turn.

Continue to describe the conditions.
Pull apart connection below harness and jumper across the White/Red wire to the black /yellow - result is the Nice familiar startup routine. instrument clusters, electric windows, car fan all start to work. This gives me hope.
Jumper across from white/red to black/ white, and the starter rotates, doesn't start. Same starter rotation but no start with both jumpers.

Question, should same things happen when the white wire is jumper to one of the black/white or black/yellow? Because I thought the chart meant yes, but nothing happened.


Additionally I can see damage to that White wire and also the blue/pink wire from the vandal's knife,
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but it didn't look cut all the way through. But I haven't sufficiently tested that. This is the same connector as post #3 in this thread, from a 180 degree backside photo.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I forgot to include the chart that I was looking at. From THIS Website, I hightlight the word WHITE(+) because the chart treats it as the same. This chart is for installers of keyless entry, remote start, & car alarms,

300474



What should happen if I jump between white and black/yellow. Should it be the same as when I jumper from White/Red to black/yellow?

I think so, its not doing that, but really I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Been going through YouTube videos about repairs to ignition locks, and also what turns up on the search from this forum. I've spent a long day on this, feeling down about theives in virus time. Any one able to suggest some strong threads, because I had too many in my search results?

Tomorrow, I am going to jumper between the white/red wire and the black/orange, which based on the chart above looks like it should do something similar, "same, same but different than the black/yellow combo.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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It's important to remember there are actually (2) distinct circuits in the Ignition Switch: AM1 and AM2 .

There is also a 3rd momentary contact inside the Ignition Switch: START, when the key is turned to START, this energizes the starter circuit.

What should happen if I jump between white and black/yellow
AM1 fuse feed: (W)hite wire, when key turned to ACC or RUN, energizes wires: Pink/Blue -> (15A Cig/Radio fuse), and Black/Yellow -> common for (15A ECU-IG, 20A WIPER, 10A GAUGE, 7.5A TURN fuses) ( Pass. Cabin fuse box ), and Black/Red wire -> feed for ENGINE MAIN Relay on 4 cyl. models

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Tomorrow, I am going to jumper between the white/red wire and the black/orange
AM2 fuse feed: (White/Red wire), when key turned to RUN, energizes wire Black/Orange -> 7.5A IGN fuse -> energizes EFI MAIN Relay -> energizes IGNITER circuit / coils, etc.

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The 3rd (momentary contact) Start circuit is part of the AM1 circuit:

(W)hite wire, key in START position, feeds Black/White wire -> supplies STARTER RELAY trigger feed -> to engage starter motor, providing the following conditions are met: M/T Clutch switch engaged, or A/T NSS switch in (Park or Neutral)

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Source: camry94wiring.pdf wiring schematics

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Unfortunately, if here, I would also treat that Ignition Switch as "suspect" / compromised. But hopefully above gives you some additional info, to make that determination.
 

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Does your car have an immobilizer? Crank but no start could be related to that.

The other likely cause is no signal for the fuel pump to start running while cranking.

Try jumping B+ to FP in the test connector under the hood and try cranking. Make sure those pins are populated before jumping... I have seen models where they weren't and that test would be futile.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you. I don't know, don't think it has an immobilizer.

I don't think that I've completed investigating the switch area. My thought is the thief was more of a drugged up incompetent thief than a pro. Took advantage that it wasn't locked properly. Going to work on my list, and what CamryFL suggests first. Thank you
 
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