Thinking of buying a 2007 or so car....
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Might want to look at this to give you an idea.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ew-camry-purchase-recommendations-thread.html
The I4 suffered sometimes of oil consumption issue. The 2AZ wasn't toyota's best engines IMO but goes on how much maintenance the engine had in its lifetime. Most 2AZ will burn a bit of oil. Mines burns about 1QT in about 2-2.5K miles
V6 engines were reliable (2GR) except for the tendency of the blowing out the VVTi rubber oil line. Check if this line has been replaced. The transmission in the V6 sometimes can a bit sketchy at times. I think mostly because it is considered a 'sealed' transmission nobody takes care to even drain and refill the trans.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ew-camry-purchase-recommendations-thread.html
The I4 suffered sometimes of oil consumption issue. The 2AZ wasn't toyota's best engines IMO but goes on how much maintenance the engine had in its lifetime. Most 2AZ will burn a bit of oil. Mines burns about 1QT in about 2-2.5K miles
V6 engines were reliable (2GR) except for the tendency of the blowing out the VVTi rubber oil line. Check if this line has been replaced. The transmission in the V6 sometimes can a bit sketchy at times. I think mostly because it is considered a 'sealed' transmission nobody takes care to even drain and refill the trans.
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10,955 Posts
Save up a bit more and get a 2010-11 - much better powertrain or 2012 -much better everything.
For the 2007 V6 and bad oil cooler line (and other years that had issue, though I'm not sure which) check to see if repair was done. This is how my dealer recorded it: "safety recall, 90k replace oil cooler hose". They also mark this down on the door pillar sticker, I think with a 90k. If it hasn't had it done, and you get one this would be a wise first repair. Don't know how much it would be but it probably won't be cheap. It's in a very tight area and seems labor intensive especially if you don't do them everyday.
On the V6 U660E transmission flare issue you'll have to take your chances. If you test drive see how it shifts from a cold engine. How many miles has it had and have they changed ATF in it. I did a fluid and filter change at 80k miles and it helped my flare problem. If I idle for a couple minutes on a cold engine I usually don't see the flare anymore. It could still die though as some have had but I don't know exactly how widespread that was. It's kind of a gamble.
Also, it seems like I read that the later model years with the U660E got the problem worked out mostly. As I recall reading, the root of the problem was that the main bearing point in the U660E housing was under engineered for the torque of the V6 and the main bearing wore aluminum off the case into the tranny which gets carried around through the valves and clogs things up. I thought that they had beefed up that area in later versions of the U660 and that in the 2010 and on seemed to be very reliable. Can anyone confirm this?
On the V6 U660E transmission flare issue you'll have to take your chances. If you test drive see how it shifts from a cold engine. How many miles has it had and have they changed ATF in it. I did a fluid and filter change at 80k miles and it helped my flare problem. If I idle for a couple minutes on a cold engine I usually don't see the flare anymore. It could still die though as some have had but I don't know exactly how widespread that was. It's kind of a gamble.
Also, it seems like I read that the later model years with the U660E got the problem worked out mostly. As I recall reading, the root of the problem was that the main bearing point in the U660E housing was under engineered for the torque of the V6 and the main bearing wore aluminum off the case into the tranny which gets carried around through the valves and clogs things up. I thought that they had beefed up that area in later versions of the U660 and that in the 2010 and on seemed to be very reliable. Can anyone confirm this?
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