I know someone will come along with the same experience and have some input, so I'm anxious to hear from you. thanks in advance!
this ailing power door problem
I've owned my `02 XLE Sienna for about 4 years now, that I'd bought from my parents that were the original owners. Pretty nice and convenient, fuel consumption; she's kind of a pig... 20mpg @ 78mph, that's what I averaged across the nation when I went back east before summer.
I mention that, because I'd expect more from the proverbial "Toyota".
So, I've been dealing with an intermittent problem with the power door on the drivers side. well, a couple of problems now...
at first the door stopped locking/unlocking remotely, only operable by hand, and that has never started working again. then intermittently, the door would cease to close by pressing any of the auto 'power' buttons - this has been occurring since we got it. Now, it doesn't work at all; open nor close.
I'm aware that the cable can be cut, for the ease of opening/closing by hand, however, it seems to me that there would be an easy fix to get the thing working again. Possibly there's contacts that are simply out of adjustments, which would explain the 'intermittency'.
This is certainly like an extremity, as an arm, and I certainly don't want to loose the ability to automatically open/close by the touch of a button.
I am open for any advice, threads I can read, etc.
thanks before hand!
I mention that, because I'd expect more from the proverbial "Toyota".
So, I've been dealing with an intermittent problem with the power door on the drivers side. well, a couple of problems now...
at first the door stopped locking/unlocking remotely, only operable by hand, and that has never started working again. then intermittently, the door would cease to close by pressing any of the auto 'power' buttons - this has been occurring since we got it. Now, it doesn't work at all; open nor close.
I'm aware that the cable can be cut, for the ease of opening/closing by hand, however, it seems to me that there would be an easy fix to get the thing working again. Possibly there's contacts that are simply out of adjustments, which would explain the 'intermittency'.
This is certainly like an extremity, as an arm, and I certainly don't want to loose the ability to automatically open/close by the touch of a button.
I am open for any advice, threads I can read, etc.
thanks before hand!
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Several possibilities
2000 XLE here with the same intermittent door problem, and here is what I have learned over the past 10 years:
1) My door will not operate when the engine is off if the battery is the slightest bit weak or discharged. It is a reliable indicator that the battery needs to be replaced or at least charged, far earlier than the inability to start the engine. Failure to operate also seems to be temperature dependent, when it is very hot or very cold - possibly related to the battery condition.
2) You do not need to cut cables - I'm sure you know (maybe not?) that the door is easily operable by hand if the power switch just left of the steering wheel is turned off. In many cases mine will operate by power if that switch is turned off and then back on after closing the door by hand. I don't know for sure but I think turning the power switch off and on resets the door ECU.
3) The inside door button on the passenger-side pillar seems to get stuck or fail to make contact sometimes. Poking it at different angles sometimes makes it work, other times the power door button on the dash will do the trick. I have seen posts where someone took the switch cover off and greased the plastic sliding parts with silicone, and another where they just sprayed lubricant in around the button. I haven't tried either of these, but once it started working after giving the surrounding pillar a good thump (I could hear a little *tink* as if something stuck was being released).
4) Keeping the contacts on the door and frame clean and free of tarnish may help.
5) I complained about this door early in the life of the van, and the dealer only applied extra grease to the tracks, which helped a bit but not much. I have read there is a TSB out for fixing the problem, but it might be pretty expensive.
Hope the above helps. On the mileage issue, I think you should be getting a bit better than 20 mpg unless traveling far above 78 mph. Mine gets about 22 in mostly-highway driving, and a solid 23 on the freeway using cruise control. Yours might be in need of "tune-up" maintenance, although I must admit never seeing much difference after such service.
BTW, the 2011 in my Username refers to the new Camry V6. Woohoo, we like it - getting 30 mpg in 80% highway driving so far (4000 miles).
2000 XLE here with the same intermittent door problem, and here is what I have learned over the past 10 years:
1) My door will not operate when the engine is off if the battery is the slightest bit weak or discharged. It is a reliable indicator that the battery needs to be replaced or at least charged, far earlier than the inability to start the engine. Failure to operate also seems to be temperature dependent, when it is very hot or very cold - possibly related to the battery condition.
2) You do not need to cut cables - I'm sure you know (maybe not?) that the door is easily operable by hand if the power switch just left of the steering wheel is turned off. In many cases mine will operate by power if that switch is turned off and then back on after closing the door by hand. I don't know for sure but I think turning the power switch off and on resets the door ECU.
3) The inside door button on the passenger-side pillar seems to get stuck or fail to make contact sometimes. Poking it at different angles sometimes makes it work, other times the power door button on the dash will do the trick. I have seen posts where someone took the switch cover off and greased the plastic sliding parts with silicone, and another where they just sprayed lubricant in around the button. I haven't tried either of these, but once it started working after giving the surrounding pillar a good thump (I could hear a little *tink* as if something stuck was being released).
4) Keeping the contacts on the door and frame clean and free of tarnish may help.
5) I complained about this door early in the life of the van, and the dealer only applied extra grease to the tracks, which helped a bit but not much. I have read there is a TSB out for fixing the problem, but it might be pretty expensive.
Hope the above helps. On the mileage issue, I think you should be getting a bit better than 20 mpg unless traveling far above 78 mph. Mine gets about 22 in mostly-highway driving, and a solid 23 on the freeway using cruise control. Yours might be in need of "tune-up" maintenance, although I must admit never seeing much difference after such service.
BTW, the 2011 in my Username refers to the new Camry V6. Woohoo, we like it - getting 30 mpg in 80% highway driving so far (4000 miles).
Every now and then mine needs to be reset. I only have a power door on the right side. The owner's manual has instructions for resetting.
Here's the bulletin and reset procedure for the power sliding door(s).2000 XLE here with the same intermittent door problem, and here is what I have learned over the past 10 years:
1) My door will not operate when the engine is off if the battery is the slightest bit weak or discharged. It is a reliable indicator that the battery needs to be replaced or at least charged, far earlier than the inability to start the engine. Failure to operate also seems to be temperature dependent, when it is very hot or very cold - possibly related to the battery condition.
2) You do not need to cut cables - I'm sure you know (maybe not?) that the door is easily operable by hand if the power switch just left of the steering wheel is turned off. In many cases mine will operate by power if that switch is turned off and then back on after closing the door by hand. I don't know for sure but I think turning the power switch off and on resets the door ECU.
3) The inside door button on the passenger-side pillar seems to get stuck or fail to make contact sometimes. Poking it at different angles sometimes makes it work, other times the power door button on the dash will do the trick. I have seen posts where someone took the switch cover off and greased the plastic sliding parts with silicone, and another where they just sprayed lubricant in around the button. I haven't tried either of these, but once it started working after giving the surrounding pillar a good thump (I could hear a little *tink* as if something stuck was being released).
4) Keeping the contacts on the door and frame clean and free of tarnish may help.
5) I complained about this door early in the life of the van, and the dealer only applied extra grease to the tracks, which helped a bit but not much. I have read there is a TSB out for fixing the problem, but it might be pretty expensive.
Hope the above helps. On the mileage issue, I think you should be getting a bit better than 20 mpg unless traveling far above 78 mph. Mine gets about 22 in mostly-highway driving, and a solid 23 on the freeway using cruise control. Yours might be in need of "tune-up" maintenance, although I must admit never seeing much difference after such service.
BTW, the 2011 in my Username refers to the new Camry V6. Woohoo, we like it - getting 30 mpg in 80% highway driving so far (4000 miles).
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/skyvisions/2008-10-15_215812_02_sienna4.pdf
Here's the latest problem...
The button on the passenger's side pillar is stuck "in" and stays depressed. Obviously a spring (probably just a piece of plastic) behind the button is broken or loose. Oddly, the button still works - push on it and the door opens/closes, but I'm afraid it might make contact on its own and accidentally open the door. I need to get in there and find out what is going on.
Has anyone had this problem and/or can describe how to remove the trim and button?
The button on the passenger's side pillar is stuck "in" and stays depressed. Obviously a spring (probably just a piece of plastic) behind the button is broken or loose. Oddly, the button still works - push on it and the door opens/closes, but I'm afraid it might make contact on its own and accidentally open the door. I need to get in there and find out what is going on.
Has anyone had this problem and/or can describe how to remove the trim and button?
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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