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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
for the past few months the car was daily driven but when the throttle was applied to hard it would cut out, if you eased into the throttle you could get it up to speed, now a week ago the they were driving the car and it stalled out, pulled over waited a few minutes started it back up, drove alittle further before it crapped out again, they parked the car,

i went back later that day we started it drove it about 5miles, it stalled twice, then it stalled for good and would no restart, it just keeps cranking over and over, towed the car back to my house to fiddle with it, car has new battery, cap and rotor are approx 6 months old, i just changed the fuel filter, and just replaced the spark plugs with the ngk's set to factory gap specs.

i can hear the fuel pump while im cranking, i jumpered Fp and +B in the diagnostic post and turned key to on position i can hear the pump run and hear the fuel going the the lines under the hood etc..., then i tried the AFM trick, pushing the door open with the key on , get the same result pump runs, i checked for spark on each cyl, i get spark, (not sure if its strong enough though, the timing belt is intact, the rotor button is pointing to #1 cyl when #1 is at TDC, when i pull the plugs out they are black with soot, which leads me to believe fuel is flowing and the injectors are spraying fuel but the plugs arent igniting the fuel???does that sound right

im not sure how to test the "igniter , or coil" throw some ideas my way if you think of any

the car just cranks over and over and over, doesnt attemp to start. i pulled the ecu out , no acid damage, doesnt smell (im sure thats all just physically looking at it, didnt really test it with anything)

any help would be greatly appreciated, im trying to help out my friends poor grandma, its her car and now shes got nothing

i kinda dont wanna just start throwing money at the car if i dont really know what the problem is exactly, im thinking a spark issue now cuz of what the plugs look like but im not sure, if the igniter is bad will u get no spark at all? a weak spark?, not sure about what exactly is the difference between the coil and the igniter. someone else mentioned to me that it could be the egr valve plugged up or stuck open, does that sound like it would totally cause the car not to start? thanx again,

772-713-3803
[email protected]

John
 

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Black spark plugs are suggesting of very rich nixture [flooding].
Try to pull the diagnostic codes.
Most likely the problem can be the coolant thermosensor.
It is unlikely than the injectors stuck open due to ecu problem; they rather won't open

If no codes are present: Locate the fuel pressure regulator, then remove the small vacuum hose from it and make sure that there is no fuel in it[if fuel is present it sucked the gas into intake flooding the engine.
next, check the cold startinjector for leakage. unbolt cold start injector from intake plenum leaving the fule line connected, bridge fuel pump test connector and switch ignition on DO NOT Crank the engine!!
If fuel begins to leak from it, replace the cold start injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Black spark plugs are suggesting of very rich nixture [flooding].
Try to pull the diagnostic codes.
Most likely the problem can be the coolant thermosensor.
It is unlikely than the injectors stuck open due to ecu problem; they rather won't open

If no codes are present: Locate the fuel pressure regulator, then remove the small vacuum hose from it and make sure that there is no fuel in it[if fuel is present it sucked the gas into intake flooding the engine.
next, check the cold startinjector for leakage. unbolt cold start injector from intake plenum leaving the fule line connected, bridge fuel pump test connector and switch ignition on DO NOT Crank the engine!!
If fuel begins to leak from it, replace the cold start injector.

i did a code test and as far as i know its not showing a code, it just blink...4.5secs blink--4.5secs----blink, keeps repeating itself over and over like not showing a code

i cranked some and checked the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator no gas present, i did the test to the cold start valve, its not leaking fuel


Now im here:
where is the coolant thermosensor located?, anyway to test it.
 

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coolant thermosensor is located in the coolant to heater outlet in front of the throttle body rectangular green connector; the sensor has 2 terminals measure resistance between them; in engine cold it must be about 2 K ohms [but not infinite], at normal operating temp it must be 200 Ohms.
www.Autozone.com used to have free on-line manual [scanned Chilton].
also to be sure if you have spark tester like this:


you can check for the good spark
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok i tested the coolant thermo sensor with 2 different multimeters, and im getting 1900ohms on one and 2000-2100 with the other, seems pretty close to me.


im going to pull the timing cover off to get a good check on the belt timing to see if its skipped any teeth at all. can u give me a crash course in how to check the marks, i know there is a hole on the cam gear, does that have to be pointing straight up when #1 is at tdc, also where should the crank pulley mark be when referencing the lower timing cover marks. thanx
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the one i checked was green, the other one in question was more a blueish or aqua marine.

well i aligned the camshaft oil seal retainer TDC mark with the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley, made sure #1 was up, and the rotor was pointing torwards #1, the my timing is off on the crank pulley mark going by the lower timing cover timing marks




the marks are as follows, 15-10-5-0-5, well my timing mark on the crank pulley is about 5 degrees to the right of the far right timing mark, so that makes it 10 degrees advance?

what do you guys think, this causing my no start? the belt looks original from 1985 so it definently needs changing anyway, anything else thats cheap i should replace, tensioner? etc.. etc..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ill take a picture in the morning of the timing mark on the crank pulley in relation to the timing marks on the lower timing cover to give u all a better idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
seriously what is the deal with this link to the timing belt replacement for the 2-se engine
http://www.yotarepair.com/2-SEtimingbelt.html

its vague as crap, u can barely read it or see the pictures, and it tells nothing of how to line up the marks prior to removal of the belt, all it tells u is how to install a belt....

is there any other data online, i tried using the free stuff from autozone but its confusing as crap they are trying to tell u how to do it to 3 different engines all at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i forked out 20 bux on a haynes, i know its not the greatest but its sufficient, getting her back together today, should have an update later on if it fires up, thanx

when putting the belt on is there any tricks to get the timing belt to line up just right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
see this picture



they are showing the E mark as pointing straight up(north) to TDC mark thru the reference hole on the camshaft sprocket. and they have reference holes on the E side and the opposite side

the sprocket i have has an " E " but there are no reference holes on the side with the E. just the opposite side, when i line my sprocket to TDC , the E is pointing South. anything i should be worried about, my rotor button is pointing torwards #1 cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok i got it done earlier today,it was the timing way off on the car all along, it started up on the 1st try, runs soo smooth too, alot more pep!, did a coolant flush and change, new brake pads in the front, now i just gotta get a strut mount for the passenger front, its totally busted, that cant be too safe.
 
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