Timing Belt Job 4 cyl.

3256 Views 32 Replies 6 Participants Last post by xtremeskier97, Aug 14, 2010

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · Aug 12, 2010

Im following the guides here on the forums. My nastiness under the timing belt cover is far worse than Ive seen in the DIYs. I want to be able to clean it all up before putting all the new seals/gaskets/belts on. Im replacing the water pump with housing, as well as the oil pump gasket and o-ring.

My question is, at what point do I spray the thing down with degreaser and start cleaning it? I dont want any degreaser to get where it shouldn't. Right now Ive got the alternator removed, the upper and lower timing belt covers removed, and the harmonic balancer/pulley removed. The timing belt is still on but Im about to mark it and pull it off, as well as the camshaft pulley, idler pulley, and the tensioner pulley. I'd also like to take off the back plate behind the timing belt just to be able to clean more.

So, should I clean it all up BEFORE I replace all the seals, or wipe the areas I can with a rag, replace the seals, and THEN start with the degreaser?

Im telling you, its BAD! All behind the engine is COVERED with oil, dirt, and grime. Im going to use the pressure washer on it with all the electricals either removed or covered.

Thanks for any help guys!

Also, here is a short video of my TOYOTA brand timing belt after more than 180,000 miles on it.

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1 - 20 of 33 Posts

Chris Crash

· #2 · Aug 12, 2010

Since you're replacing the seals, belt and everything in there anyway, I would spray it first with brake cleaner. Then wipe it. Then take it apart. Then put new seals in. Then wipe clean again.

71Corolla

· #3 · Aug 12, 2010

^^ Best advise. Brake clean works great for this kind of thing, and won't harm anything in the process. On the especially bad areas, use a tooth brush to scrub the crud off.

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #4 · Aug 12, 2010

Thanks guys!!

Ive marked the timing belt teeth in relation to the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft gear teeth. Once this is done, I can take the timing belt off and turn those two pulleys if I need to, right? So long as I line my marks back up when putting the new timing belt back on?

71Corolla

· #5 · Aug 12, 2010

You really don't need to mark the timing belt at all. And yes you can turn the crank and camshaft, but it's best to align the crank and cam before you remove the belt and just leave them be, there is really no reason to turn them. The cam will get turned a bit when removing the gear of course. Use a wood clamp to hold the cam gear, it works perfectly.

BTW, the timing belts from a Toyota dealer have marks on the belt itself, it makes it really easy. The OEM equivalents do not, 3rd party belts don't either.

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 12, 2010

71Corolla said:
You really don't need to mark the timing belt at all. And yes you can turn the crank and camshaft, but it's best to align the crank and cam before you remove the belt and just leave them be, there is really no reason to turn them. The cam will get turned a bit when removing the gear of course. Use a wood clamp to hold the cam gear, it works perfectly.

BTW, the timing belts from a Toyota dealer have marks on the belt itself, it makes it really easy. The OEM equivalents do not, 3rd party belts don't either.

If you dont mark the timing belt and transfer it to the new belt, then you could be off by a tooth when reinstalling, thus, the timing will be off.

71Corolla

· #7 · Aug 12, 2010 (Edited)

xtremeskier97 said:
If you dont mark the timing belt and transfer it to the new belt, then you could be off by a tooth when reinstalling, thus, the timing will be off.

When installing the new belt, you need to check that the crank and cam marks are correct, rotate the crank 720 degrees and check again. There is no need to mark the belts.

edit - I should have stated it differently, you don't have to mark the belt. But if it helps on reassembly, then nothing wrong with it. I personally don't see the point because you need to make sure the marks line up 100% anyway, but everyone has their own way of doing things.

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #8 · Aug 12, 2010 (Edited)

I cant get the camshaft seal out to save my life! Ive tried drilling a hole in the seal to put a screw in it and pull it out, but I cant get the drill in there at all! Ive been trying to get it out for over 2 hours!

Anyone have any other tricks I could try?! Im desperate!

Thanks!

Oh!....and I dont have a vice to get the oil pump pulley off to change the seal. Any other ideas on that?

ajkalian

· #9 · Aug 13, 2010

xtremeskier97 said:
I cant get the camshaft seal out to save my life! Ive tried drilling a hole in the seal to put a screw in it and pull it out, but I cant get the drill in there at all! Ive been trying to get it out for over 2 hours!

Anyone have any other tricks I could try?! Im desperate!

Thanks!

I had the same problem. What I ended up doing was to take a flat blade screwdriver and jam it into the seal itself, and then I could pry it out. When I say "jam" I don't mean with a 10 lb hammer, but pound with your palm.

It doesn't hurt to put some tape on the blade of the screwdriver. I used a small one, not the smallest one, but one maybe 6" long. Lay the screwdriver against the head, and the shank of the screwdriver on the shaft, point the tip of the screwdriver up and away from the shaft, flat part of the tip parallel to the head, and then jam it right into the seal. One or two times should do it. Remember too much force will poke the screwdriver through the seal an score the machined surface of the head. But the seal is pretty tough, and you probably won't puncture it.

Once the screwdriver is lodged in the seal you can pry it out. If it doesn't come out with the small one, the slot made with the small one will allow a larger flat blade screwdriver to get in there an yank it out.

Once out, use a socket, or a piece of PVC pipe to tap the new seal in place. You can also use the old seal as a way to tap the new seal in place if you don't have a socket or PVC pipe handy.

Hope this helps.

.

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71Corolla

· #10 · Aug 13, 2010

The way I get the cam seal out is I have a drill bit that I cut short, and I use the smallest drill I have. I drill at an angle, being patient and very very careful. When drilling, don't use much pressure, so that when you do pierce the seal casing the bit doesn't continue into the camshaft!

Failing that, run out and get yourself an angle drill. Some people cut the rubber off the seal then pry it out, I've never had much luck doing this.

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #11 · Aug 13, 2010

Awesome! Got the seal out and new installed!

Now, about that oil pump pulley! Any ideas? I may have to wait till tomorrow and run over to my father in law's house and use the one we bought him! LoL.

Im open to suggestions though!

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #12 · Aug 13, 2010

Awesome! Got the seal out and new installed!

Now, about that oil pump pulley! Any ideas? I may have to wait till tomorrow and run over to my father in law's house and use the one we bought him! LoL.

Im open to suggestions though!

ycartf

· #13 · Aug 13, 2010

I removed my oil pump pulley by putting the old timing belt around the sprocket (both to hold and to cushion it), then clamped a big C-clamp on it really tight and held it with that while I broke the nut loose.

Tracy

Nervous

· #14 · Aug 13, 2010

71Corolla said:
^^ Best advise. Brake clean works great for this kind of thing, and won't harm anything in the process. On the especially bad areas, use a tooth brush to scrub the crud off.

Well, I would avoid spraying brake cleaner on rubber parts like CV boots, belts, gaskets.

71Corolla

· #15 · Aug 13, 2010

Nervous said:
Well, I would avoid spraying brake cleaner on rubber parts like CV boots, belts, gaskets.

Something to keep in mind. The stuff I buy seems pretty mild, not near as harsh as the cleaners I have used in the past. But you're right you don't want to dry out/damage anything in the cleaning process. It sure is tempting to just get in there with a pressure washer though, would be clean in a few seconds. :lol:

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #16 · Aug 13, 2010

ycartf said:
I removed my oil pump pulley by putting the old timing belt around the sprocket (both to hold and to cushion it), then clamped a big C-clamp on it really tight and held it with that while I broke the nut loose.

Tracy

I didnt think of a C clamp! I did have the old belt around it trying to get it broken loose.

Im going to buy a vice for my bench tomorrow at Harbor Freight or BigLots. I dont need one that often. Just seems I need it whenever working on my cars!

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #17 · Aug 13, 2010

Got the vice and tried to get the nut off. No go. Tried the C clamp trick. No go. Someone installed this nut ENTIRELY too tight! It's only supposed to be 21 ft. lbs.

Im afraid of tightening the vice too tight that it might mess up the pulley. Ive got wood blocks on both sides of the pulley though. Should I go tighter? It keeps slipping out.

71Corolla

· #18 · Aug 13, 2010

What kind of wood are you using? If you can, use a relatively soft wood and clamp it until the wood starts deforming around the pulley. You have to get the nut loose no matter what or destroy the unit trying. It's actually worse if it slips, that's when it could be damaged. Hit the spanner sharply with a heavy hammer it should crack the nut loose.

Worst case is you have to buy a new pump, something I like to do instead of messing with the seal.

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #19 · Aug 13, 2010 (Edited)

Ok...got that off and everything cleaned. Starting to put back together and im noticing shaft play and i dont know if it was there before. I make a video of it and post it up, but I cant remember if it was there before. Should there be any shaft play (im talking about in and out, not side to side) in the pump?

Ill make a video and place it up shortly.

Thanks!

EDIT....after thinking about it for a minute, i decided to put the pump in as a mock setup and noticed that the shaft actually cant go in but so far because it rides up against and inside a cutout in the pump housing, so the play is irrelevant because the channel actually keeps it all the way out and makes it as if there is no play.

xtremeskier97

Discussion Starter · #20 · Aug 13, 2010 (Edited)

I have a question. Im installing the camshaft pulley now. As Im turning it (spark plugs are removed) it kind of "jumps" every once in a while. Is this normal? Or should it be fluid movement?

And how important is it to get it all the way to 40 ft lbs torque? Ive used a clamp to get it pretty tight but it hasnt hit my torque wrench's 40 ft lbs click yet.

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