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Discussion Starter #1
2010 Corolla 1.8L

I found the guide to be broken at the tension contact point so I am going to order a full chain kit. I have 2 questions:

1. The OEM Chains have colored links for the timing alignment, many of the chains I found online have no marks or colored links, is there a replacement chain with the colored links? The cam gears have changed from the previous year and are VVTI. I don't see dots on this style cam gears at all so I can't see how perfect alignment is possible without the colored links.

2. I noticed that on the oil pump chain, the colored link is not aligned with the dot on the sprocket, it was like this when opened up and there was no vibration or issues prior so I am not sure what this alignment has caused it if it caused. I believe it just runs the oil pump so not sure if that really requires any real alignment as if it were a balance shaft I would expect the engine to not be running smoothly. The chain and guide for the oil pump side are in good condition, no slack so I can't see that it jumped.

The cover was removed because it has a crack so it needed to be replaced but prior the engine ran perfectly fine, 0 issues. I only noticed the guide wear when replacing the cover so I am not sure why the oil sprocket would not be aligned, doesn't make sense unless someone had it open previously. The oil pump cog is off but 3 or 4 teeth not just a single tooth. I wanted to verify before putting back together if anyone has seen this before.

Appreciate any feedback.

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By the double colored-links on the intake side in your pic I see that you have a 2ZR-FE. Couple months ago I did full timing on an '09 Vibe. Tensioner failed (common issue), and instead of towing it to me to replace the $25 tensioner and $5 gasket for $20 labor, they kept driving, flooring the everloving crap out of it, which wore out all timing components save the drive sprocket and wore grooves in the block (and wore away the surface feature that was designed to hold the tension-side slipper while you loaded up the timing cover), which made it a $2000 job. Let's see if I can give you useful advice.

1. Cloyes P/N 94220 is for the 2ZR and has the colored links. That is what I used last time; I checked RockAuto. There's no mistaking the engine on a 2010 Matrix, but there was some confusion on the Vibe and their catalog listed both 1ZZ and 2ZR timing parts (1ZZ timing chain has single colored-links, while 2ZR has double-orange on the intake side). Alignment is done with the lines on the VVT gear body that you see lined up with the colored links in your pics.

2. Don't worry about it. Leave the oil pump tensioner, chain, and sprockets (pump and crank) alone. I'm sure you realize, cranking it over will not land the colored link back on the initial alignment mark on most setups, this one included.

Other advice:

  • if you had the intake startup rattle, there is an updated intake cam sprocket that would be prudent to swap in at this time.
  • replace all gaskets: the o-rings on the block/head that seal oil passages to the timing cover for the tensioner and such, the special square-profile ring seal for the cam oiler line, and those two penis-shaped ones for the VVT solenoids. Strongly recommend OE only.
  • as you know, the timing cover is sealed using RTV. Toyota wants you to remove the engine before doing timing, but if you bend the A/C lines out of the way a bit and hopefully with an extra pair of hands you can manage it. Make sure the tstat housing is bolted and torqued to the timing cover first, have fun with that whole mess near the alternator.
  • If you have wear on either camshaft sprocket's teeth (they look uneven), replace them. OE only, no Dorman, no whatever brand. GM discontinued the rebadged parts otherwise you could save a couple bucks using the Vibe parts.
  • I used OE chain guides, but aftermarket should be fine. Tensioner and crush gasket, OE ONLY. And from now on, replace it preemptively along with the gasket every 30-40K. It's cheap, easy, and good insurance.
HTH

2010 Corolla 1.8L

I found the guide to be broken at the tension contact point so I am going to order a full chain kit. I have 2 questions:

1. The OEM Chains have colored links for the timing alignment, many of the chains I found online have no marks or colored links, is there a replacement chain with the colored links? The cam gears have changed from the previous year and are VVTI. I don't see dots on this style cam gears at all so I can't see how perfect alignment is possible without the colored links.

2. I noticed that on the oil pump chain, the colored link is not aligned with the dot on the sprocket, it was like this when opened up and there was no vibration or issues prior so I am not sure what this alignment has caused it if it caused. I believe it just runs the oil pump so not sure if that really requires any real alignment as if it were a balance shaft I would expect the engine to not be running smoothly. The chain and guide for the oil pump side are in good condition, no slack so I can't see that it jumped.

The cover was removed because it has a crack so it needed to be replaced but prior the engine ran perfectly fine, 0 issues. I only noticed the guide wear when replacing the cover so I am not sure why the oil sprocket would not be aligned, doesn't make sense unless someone had it open previously. The oil pump cog is off but 3 or 4 teeth not just a single tooth. I wanted to verify before putting back together if anyone has seen this before.

Appreciate any feedback.

View attachment 286247 View attachment 286248
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you, appreciate the follow up. All new gaskets are in hand prior to removing the cover, I got it off with no trouble, A/C lines were hardly an issue. Not sure why they pull the motor, it was not a bad job, plenty of room. I am going to order the chain and guides today, probably just go to Toyota since I didn't like the pic on rock auto (No color links) in the pic.

I have the tensioner and procedure for installing, just want to swap the chain and guides before putting it back, the rail had wear on it so it doesn't make sense to put it back.

One observation however, there are two marks on the one cam gear, the lobes on both cams are pointing inward and up toward the bolts so I assume this looks correct to you? The other one on the cam gear will have those lobes pointing downward so I chose the mark where you see it in the pic.

Thanks again!
 

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One observation however, there are two marks on the one cam gear, the lobes on both cams are pointing inward and up toward the bolts so I assume this looks correct to you? The other one on the cam gear will have those lobes pointing downward so I chose the mark where you see it in the pic.
Post a pic
 

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If you wind up with a timing chain with no colored links, color them yourself. spraypaint or paint pen a link and then count links to the next one, using your old chain as a guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One last question. I have a new chain and guides installed along with a tensioner and gaskets installed. When setting the tensioner I read 3 different ways of doing so and was wondering what is the safest to avoid jumping?

Several different said the folling:

1. spin the engine by hand clockwise until you hear it click

2. spin the engine counterclockwise until you hear the clicking

3. bump the starter to set it

I will avoid option 3 because in my experience with timing belts/chains this should not be done especially when the tensioner has no oil.

what is the safest/recommended/proper procedure?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can someone verify that the cams are in the correct position? The intake cam has two marks and when I have it aligned as pictured, it seems as though the camshaft itself snaps back and upon rotation the marks no longer line up. I physically see the cam shaft spinning out of sync with the cam gear itself.

The intake cam has two marks and maybe I am on the wrong mark?

appreciate any feedback you can provide.
 

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If the camshaft "snaps" that sounds like it jumped but you should hear the loud "klack" when that happens. You then have to keep some tension where the top tensioner is and maybe some on the tensioned side to prevent that.

Unless I'm not understanding what you're doing...are you rotating it without the chain being tensioned by the tensioner? If so, that's incorrect. Also, the colored marks will NOT line up again after rotation, they are only for initial alignment of the cam and crank position. When you rotate it (WITH it tensioned), the colored links don't matter, only the marks on the cam phasers and crank in relation to the head surface and timing cover.

Those timing marks look correct to me, I forget what the other marks on the cam phasers look like.

Can someone verify that the cams are in the correct position? The intake cam has two marks and when I have it aligned as pictured, it seems as though the camshaft itself snaps back and upon rotation the marks no longer line up. I physically see the cam shaft spinning out of sync with the cam gear itself.

The intake cam has two marks and maybe I am on the wrong mark?

appreciate any feedback you can provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. For some reason I think I am lacking tension once the cover is installed. The tensioner may not be going over all the way and possibly stuck somehow.

i do hear a loud clack when rotating, I see some slack in the chain between the two cams before it happens, I don’t even get a full rotation out of it before it clacks.

i had the marks set perfectly on all the spots so I am going to mark the tensioner position remove the cover and see where it was.

strange for sure, it shouldn’t be this difficult. I’ve done multiple chain engines on vw/audi and had no issues. The main issue is that with this design you can’t put the tension on until the cover is installed so you can’t really eye ball it.

appreciate your responce though, it is a great help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I heard the clack after the initial turn and after turning again the cams to seem to be aligned, obviously bot with the marks but the lobes and lines are in the proper spot. I just don’t understand why I got that initial klacking sound upon the first turn and am worried that the timing is off.

make any sense? I assumed that klacking boise was it jumping time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After a few turns the cams and crank are aligned. I guess that clacking from the cam made me think it jumped when it did not.

can you confirm the attached pics? That is where it is after 2 manual turns.
 

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It's hard to say with the intake cam phaser, due to the colored links not being there; I can't say for sure without being there. You should have a helper watch to see if the cams jump. I also recommend getting the FSM so you can follow the proper tensioner "tensioning" procedure.

In my case, there was a boss that the tensioner slipper should be resting on that had been worn away/broken off by the chain slapping around for two weeks of driving. I had to thread some stranded wire down behind the chain and around the slipper, and tie it up top to hold it tensioned to keep it from jumping. Then, once I got the timing cover in and tensioner bolted on, I made sure the tensioner wasn't clamping on the wire, untied it and pulled it out the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The timing is on the marks and the cams are pointed in the proper direction, just getting a 'clacking' sound from the intake cam, it was working perfectly fine previously so I am not sure why that is. Maybe it is empty of oil so it needs to be pumped up.
 

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Shouldn't be making any noise at all at the speeds you can crank over the engine by hand. If it's stamped with the old/original part number, replace with the latest revision.
 

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Looked at it today, verified the timing of the cams and crank and appear to be right. When I turn the engine, the intake cam snaps back at certain times as shown in the video. I believe that cam gear/phaser is defective. Can anyone confirm?

After it skas back a little, I can keep turning and the cam gear spins a little before the cam itself moves with it so there is obviously a sync issue with it. I am also going to do a compression test to ensure I don't have a bent valve.

See video below, strange right?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6xdqmfp5xo72y5v/Video.mov?dl=0
 

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Yeah, I think you're correct, that cam phaser is defective or sticking somehow. I replaced both intake and exhaust phasers on the Vibe due to worn out teeth, and neither the old ones nor the new ones did that.
 

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That clacking is normal, it did it to me when I was installing my timing chain. It happens because the valve springs are pushing up on the lobes of the camshaft and causing it to rotate a bit, since you don't have the tensioner set yet there is enough play for that to happen.
 

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This is a good point; now I'm curious as to why mine don't do that. Hm, maybe because I had it partially tensioned by pulling on the tensioner slipper.

That clacking is normal, it did it to me when I was installing my timing chain. It happens because the valve springs are pushing up on the lobes of the camshaft and causing it to rotate a bit, since you don't have the tensioner set yet there is enough play for that to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No, we have the timing chain installed with the tensioner, the cams are both timed properly, when we rotate however, on the intake side only, the valves are pushing the cam forward and it is getting away from the timing gear, when we continue to turn, the cam gear moves and the cam stays put for part of a turn then the cam starts moving afterwards. The exhaust side, the cam moves with the gear and stays with the gear when moving and does not slip.

On the intake cam, the valves push the cam forward and the cam moves when the cam gear does not. I originally thought that this was because the oil is not pumped in to the timing gear at the moment but don't want to start the engine and bend up valves.

when we crank the motor it is going to go clack clack clack which is a problem in my opinion. I checked the valves and they all appear to be opening and closing all the way so I think that is safe but the cam should not be moving away from the cam gear, doesn't make sense.

I appreciate your feedback.

See newest video below:

 
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