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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
preface: i knew nothing about how to get inside my 1999 solara v6 manual

1.took it to jiffy lube
2. two days go by, start losing power, no check engine light, no leaking fluids, checked dipstick on warm engine said full(MISTAKE) , looked at invoice says they put in 6 quarts of the recommended type /oil filter was the right part. figured coincidence
3. next day power loss significantly reduced, look online... says fuel system issue
4. back to jiffy lube for a fuel line cleaning... no improvement
5. spend more time looking online says spark plugs/fuel filter/fuel pump
6. go to autoparts store to buy tools/parts car can barely make it with out going into 5000 rpm
7. get home change plugs no difference, change fuses/fuel pump no difference, change fuel filter MAJOR BLOCKAGE! no difference :(
8 spend the next two days online downloading manuals reading specs pulling hair out also figuring out how to disable anti theft system that is now active from pulling the negative terminal
10. buy multimeter/compression tester
11. check plug,fuel pump wires fine, maf sensor/throttle position sensor fine. compression test 235 across the board injectors clicking away, pull o2 sensor check for back pressure from exaust just like eric the car guy said.... no pressure.
13. starting to notice build up underneath transmission.. oil? online says worn clutch could be the cause so i test it by puting it in 3rd and letting go of the clutch ITS THE CLUTCH!!! f me must have entered "high rpm-no power" 35 times into google watched countles hours of youtube vids no result said anything about the freakin clutch dude. but that drop in power so sudden right after the oil change look online.... oily clutch... overfilling causing gasket failure... rear main seal.
14.check dipstick again on cold engine... double the full line... wtf
15.ordered atp reseal/clutch kit/jack&stands got the car on the stands. looking at the oil pan and it has a red tamper paint seal on the bolt, called jiffy lube. they say red is what their technicians use.

so they drained the oil and filled it with 6 quarts supposedly, but now the bottom of the engine is caked. and my clutch is either worn or covered in oil.
i have the clutch kit. what do i do next pls help im trying to do it myself but theres so many what ifs and i really dont want to have to pull the transmission and my head hurts from looking at that dang **********s pdf.
 

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are you sure your engine holds 6 qts? i don't know which one you have but the 1mz-fe only holds 5 quarts.
sounds like you're overfilling it but without knowing the specs, can't say for sure.
tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
says 6 quarts for 1mzfe in the service manual. i can take a picture of the dip stick

edit: oh dang your right but 1 extra quart hang on

edit 2: ok i checked the dipstick again and it looks proper full but theres oil coating the tube which makes it hard to read i think they may have just put in 1 exta quart maybe that means its just a worn clutch
 

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even with a new filter, 5 qts should fill it just fine.
check it cold, after it's sat overnight. i bet it'll be right up to the full mark.
overfilling is worse than being a bit low.
tony
 

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i don't put too much trust in those stop leak products.
if it was me and i had proof they put 6 qts in it when it calls for 5 and then the seal blew and ruined the clutch, i'd take em to small claims court for the damages, after getting an estimate to replace the seal and clutch.
tony
 

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based on your OP.. it truly think you are the type to wear out your own clutch prematurley... just sayin... I dont think jiffy lube overfulled you or caused any damage... I just think your clutch is worn... :)


:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
i dont have the resources for court right now. if its simply a worn clutch i will dance.

once i drain the oil i should be able to make a better guess i have 5 gallon buckets maybe i can saw it in half so it can fit.:laugh:

update: found a 3 gallon bucket with a spout... should work.. 6 quarts should be half
 

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What a clusterf*** that turned into. It seems like you'd have to put more than 1 extra quart in it to cause such a catastrophe. But, a clutch doesn't just go out all of a sudden. It will start slightly slipping before it gets real bad...unless oil gets dumped on it. Show them they over-filled it and if it blew oil all over your clutch I'd demand they fix it. They may have put more than 6 quarts in. Maybe the kid was texting while he was putting oil in and let the spigot run too long.....

If I ever took my car to a lube place (Never have, never will), no matter who it is, I would check the dipstick before I drove away to see that 1- They actually changed the oil (It's clean). 2 - It actually has oil in it. 3 - it's at proper level. And probably roll under car to see it has MY drain plug back in it and that it is tight. I trust nobody but myself!
 

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Okay...so here's the deal.

Car is lacking power or the clutch is slipping. This occurred after a jiffy lube service when they put 6 quarts (not liters) of oil. We do not know nor can confirm if this is the cause of your issue.

What we do know is
-1MZFE engine calls for 4.7 qt with new filter. I personally filled it with 5QT without new filter and been fine. Never 6, but I don't think 6 would cause long term issue if it was drained to near correct levels. Regardless, it was overfilled per manufacture specs and it is on paper.

What we do not know is
-If the overfill to 6 quart is causing your clutch to slip or lack of power
-If the rear main seal leaked after the overfill
-If the rear main seal leaked before the service
-If there is oil on the clutch
-If someone at the service center who didn't know how to drive stick burned your clutch...


You may need to get a certified 3rd party shop to look and confirm why the clutch is slipping. I'm not 100% sure what the process is to have a shop take responsibility for the 'issues' if it is their fault, but doing repairs\diag on your own will not help you in this case if you wish to have a place claim responsibility. Since you've already drain the oil that was filled by the shop, I don't think you can really claim much anymore...
 
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Just play along....
corolla
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Overfilling will not cause a rear seal to suddenly leak. Its still possible that you have oil contamination of your clutch, but good luck proving the seal wasnt leaking before the service.

I still find it hard to believe you couldnt tell it was slipping and thought it was a loss of power issue!

Anyway, pull the trans. See what everything looks like and of course, replace that rear seal while you are at it. You could possibly need a crank repair kit if you have a bad groove where the original seal wore it all away.

Jiffy lube sure gets a lot of bad rep. I dont think all of it is deserved, but why take the chance? When I do oil changes, i check our reference book, but ALWAYS make sure the oil level is at the marked full line on the dipstick. Anyone who tells you we put what the book said, is probably lying. Make them check the level on the stick and make sure they adjust it correctly.

Good luck on your clutch job. Also change the axle seals while you are at it.
I've had a lot of BAD aftermarket clutches over the years, but Exedy is the one that has the highest quality and driveabiliy I have found to date. Get one if you can return the one you already have.

-SP
 

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00 camry le 5s-fe
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-If someone at the service center who didn't know how to drive stick burned your clutch...
there is so many variables here that it really does sound like a cluster...
some background context may help, such as

how many miles on the clutch?
how many miles on the engine?
what gear(s) are you experiencing clutch slip?
what gear(s) are you experiencing power loss?
is your clutch slip at partial throttle or at WOT shifts?
does your tachometer increase in revs right after you shift but your speedo stays constant (slippage)?
does your tach increase slowly in revs after shifting and your speedo slowly gains speed (power loss)?

and like Kingdom934 mentioned, you could have a complete auto-only tech that tried to pull your car in the service bay, with some original high mileage, they might have feathered the clutch into oblivion..
 

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My ex wife took our Taurus wagon to Jiffy GED and they talked her into swapping the AT pan gasket, then refilled in 2 Qts low, which I figured out when the transmission started dropping shifts.

These places are all about the margins; untrained people working too fast with poor quality materials. No thanks.
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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Like a few have posted here................

I would NEVER, I mean NEVER take my car with almost 500,000 miles (without any rebuilt history) to ANY fast Oil change business!

Lucas and perhaps other makers of Oil additives makes a Rear Main Seal conditioner that actually worked for my very high mileage Camry with Auto Transmission.

A little mystery to me with some posts here so far is that if you have a manual (5 Speed) Transmission and if you over-fill your Engine, the implication "is" that it will affect your clutch? Really?
 

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Token Aussie
1998 AE102 sedan, 2006 ZZE122 wagon, 2018 ZRE182 hatch
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A little mystery to me with some posts here so far is that if you have a manual (5 Speed) Transmission and if you over-fill your Engine, the implication "is" that it will affect your clutch? Really?
The theory is that if you overfill the rear main seal is more likely to leak, which lets oil in to the bellhousing. Since cars run dry clutches (unlike say motorbikes which usually have wet ones) any fluid contamination of the friction surface can lead to slipping.


Does sound like there's more to this story (or something else going on) though...
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
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The theory is that if you overfill the rear main seal is more likely to leak, which lets oil in to the bellhousing. Since cars run dry clutches (unlike say motorbikes which usually have wet ones) any fluid contamination of the friction surface can lead to slipping.


Does sound like there's more to this story (or something else going on) though...
I had a 1974 Corolla and a 1982 Corolla SR-5.

Of course the 1974 was a 4 Speed with a 2TC Engine that could keep up with a 1982 BWM 320 four banger!

The 1982 Corolla SR-5 was indeed a 5-Speed with the 1.8 Liter with the Emissions spaghetti mess Engine!

I have never had any major Clutch Slippage on any of my experiences and I was hard on the clutches and they lasted a very long time and most especially didn't matter what the Engine was doing!:wink:

There are all sorts of Pages on the Web that says RMS does and does NOT affect Clutch friction components, it seems like it depends on the Brand / Model.

If I was a betting man, I would say that the Original Poster has some other issues that might be resolved by taking it to a REAL MECHANICAL SHOP to properly diagnose his vehicle's condition.0:)
Some one that he can trust and certainly NOT those clowns at the FAST OIL CHANGE business.

For educational purposes:

http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781605252131_ch07.pdf
 
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