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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

New to the board as fate would have it, I have a problem with my wife's car. I will make it brief, as it started sputtering and hesitating leaving a stop about 2 weeks ago. I bought a code reader (A Creader 3001) and it gave me the following codes. P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0304 along with P0441, P0442, P0446 EESV Vent control circuit. Walking by the gas cap area it stinks of gas, but has been like that for years. I tested the coils and they all have OHMS power so I said the plugs have been in there for 100k, I'll change them but they all looked in good condition. No cracks, no liquid in cylinder with plug. I inspected it visually and don't see any cracked hoses. Will try to spray around the intake manifold to see if the engine changes tone indicating maybe a gasket leak? Anyone face similar problems, and what was your solutions. Thanks for your insight and suggestions. It's much appreciated!
 

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I moved your thread to the forum for Echos.

How many miles on it? Any work done recently, besides what you mentioned?

I tested the coils and they all have OHMS power
I don't know what this means. Pls explain.
 

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Thanks, I took the coils out and tested them with a meter. They all came back with a reading in the 30's. I didn't get a misfire code for cylinder 2 so I took the coil out and switched it with the cylinder 1 coil, and reset the codes. Cylinder 2 still does not generate a misfire code, but cylinder 1 did again. Hope this helps
 

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P0441 purge valve faulty can cause misfire by allowing to much fuel/fumes from evap system into intake manifold.
Remove intake purge valve vacuum line at the valve (seal off or plug line itself).
Start engine run at idle to see if still misfires.
 

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If this helps, just used the reader on the car driving around the block and the following reading for the 02S11 is 0.05 to 0.8 voltage but constantly moving and the SHRTFT11 is always zero and sometimes going to -3. The other 02S12 pct is .055v idling and 0.8 driving. The SHRTFT12 is always at 99.2%. Does that mean I have a faulty Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor?
 

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"02S11 is 0.05 to 0.8 voltage but constantly moving "
This is an indication that sensor is good.
SHRTFT12 at 99% means N/A

Can you post the LT plus ST fuel trims at idle and also at 3000 RPMs?
Have you tried sealing off purge vacuum line to see if fixes misfires ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"02S11 is 0.05 to 0.8 voltage but constantly moving "
This is an indication that sensor is good.
SHRTFT12 at 99% means N/A

Can you post the LT plus ST fuel trims at idle and also at 3000 RPMs?
Have you tried sealing off purge vacuum line to see if fixes misfires ?
It doesn't always misfire. Idling I can rev the car no problem. It's when I leave a stop sometimes it lugs. I don't know if this is what you wanted but I have a Creeder 1301 reader and under live stream when I scroll I see SHRTFT1 is -1.6% on both idling, at 3000 rpm they both jump to 4 all the way to -1.6%. The MFS operate at 2 to 7 idling and goes up to almost 30 driving. Does this help?
 

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It doesn't always misfire. Idling I can rev the car no problem. It's when I leave a stop sometimes it lugs. I don't know if this is what you wanted but I have a Creeder 1301 reader and under live stream when I scroll I see SHRTFT1 is -1.6% on both idling, at 3000 rpm they both jump to 4 all the way to -1.6%. The MFS operate at 2 to 7 idling and goes up to almost 30 driving. Does this help?
I think the first sensor is bad because the voltage is low compared to the second reading.
 

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P0441 purge valve faulty can cause misfire by allowing to much fuel/fumes from evap system into intake manifold.
Remove intake purge valve vacuum line at the valve (seal off or plug line itself).
Start engine run at idle to see if still misfires.
I will try, but when I reset the codes, it ran well for a couple of days, then misfire codes appeared again for Cylinder 1 and 4 now. Don't have any codes in the 400 range...yet.
 

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Your reader should have a LT fuel trim as well as ST.
Scroll and select for LT trims.
This information will help pin point any faults.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, FUELSYS1 to the right of it says CL while driving.
FUELSYS2 has no reading to the right. It's just blank.

I think this is what you are requesting.

SHRTFT1 is -1.6% when idling. When I drive, it swings from -3.6 all the way up to 8. Then when I came to the light, it went to 10 and the car wanted to stall while waiting at the light.
LONGFT1 is pretty steady at -1.6% and doesn't move much. Between 3 and -3% when driving.

On the highway tonight I was only running it close to 2k rmp but the SHRTF1 and LONGFT1 were pretty much at -1.6% and it seemed to be running ok. Driving around the neighborhood, it runs terrible when leaving a stop. Hope this helps
 

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"Then when I came to the light, it went to 10 and the car wanted to stall while waiting at the light."
Fuel trims increasing at idle indicate lean condition so start by sealing off the purge valve from the intake.
Cross this one off before continuing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
"Then when I came to the light, it went to 10 and the car wanted to stall while waiting at the light."
Fuel trims increasing at idle indicate lean condition so start by sealing off the purge valve from the intake.
Cross this one off before continuing.
The purge valve is attached to the hose connected to the air filter housing? Is there a video on how to do this properly and what I would be looking for once sealed off? Thanks again for your help.
 

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Don't have the exact location but sure that you can find it on google.
On my Camry purge valve is located drivers side near air intake and has a green cap valve on the hose going to the evap canister. The other hose goes to the intake. If disconnected it should cause a large vacuum leak .
For this reason need to seal/cap/pinch off the hose after disconnecting.

Your looking to see if misfires/engine lugging goes away.
 

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Don't have the exact location but sure that you can find it on google.
On my Camry purge valve is located drivers side near air intake and has a green cap valve on the hose going to the evap canister. The other hose goes to the intake. If disconnected it should cause a large vacuum leak .
For this reason need to seal/cap/pinch off the hose after disconnecting.

Your looking to see if misfires/engine lugging goes away.
I saw the hose with the green cap. The hose from the purge valve goes and connects into it. Then the connection goes toward the firewall and under the car going to the back.The other side of the purge valve has another hose going into the engine I assume. If I disconnect the hose going to the green cap and pinch it, then disconnect and pinch the other hose going from the purge valve to the engine (I would also have to disconnect the electrical clip to the purge valve and leave it off) then take the car for a spin to see if it hesitates? Thanks
 

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You got it! However the hose going to the engine from the purge valve is the only one needed to isolate the valve from the engine.

A quick check to see if purge valve is stuck open is check for engine vacuum( with your finger) at the green cap valve vacuum port.
This to be done with engine running and with hose from engine connected to purge valve/hose to green cap disconnected and electrical disconnected.
 

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Ok, so to recap, leave the hose connected from the engine to the purge valve. Disconnect the electrical to the valve. Then disconnect the hose going to the green cap from the purge valve and put my thumb on the purge valve hole and on the rubber hose hole to the green cap and look to see if there's vacuum on both? Thanks
 

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Vacuum will be coming from the engine thru purge valve( if open) out the other port.
No vacuum will be felt on the disconnected green cap hose.
 

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Ok, so I disconnected the hose from the selonoid that goes to the green cap and put my thumb over the selonoid hole and there is very little suction at all. It was on start up so I revved the engine and the suction was still practically non existent. I reconnected the greenline hose back to the purge valve and removed the side connected to the engine, and there was a large amount of suction and the car wanted to stall. All this was done with the selonoid electrical disconnected before the startup.
 

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ok, so just to be sure that the electrical isn't energizing do same test(thumb on purge valve green port but with electrical connected. Shouldn't feel any vacuum.
If test good than purge valve is eliminated as a vacuum leak.

Maybe best continue testing by erasing error codes and monitoring engine parameters( fuel trims/MAF/ECT/ IAT.
Fuel trims should be less than plus/minus 10 from idle up to 80% engine load.
MAF around 2g/s at idle up to 80 g/s at 80 % engine load.
ECT/IAT should both read around ambient temp engine cold.

Note: after erasing codes the first error code that appears should have freeze frame data stored.
 
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