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I've now changed the oil for the second time on my 2009 Venza. I did the first change at 3100 miles, and this one was performed at 6300 miles.

I use the official Toyota Filter element, Mobil 1 5W30 oil, a 3/8 socket wrench, a large adjustable wrench, 1 piece of clear plastic tubing (1/2 Inner Diameter-from a home store @ $1usd/foot.), a filter wrench (I don't know the exact size...but it was for my 1997 Nissan Maxima 3.3L engine. Go to an auto store, find the filter for the Maxima, then find the filter wrench. It works exactly for the Toyota filter casing) and a few rags and paper towels.

I also jack the car up and use braces on the sides just in case. I've taken pictures to help anyone that might be thinking about doing their own oil changes. They are really easy, and not hard at all.

THIS IS FOR THE V6. I HAVE NO IDEA ON THE 4 CYLINDER.

Setup:



Then jack up the car. There is some plastic fairing under the front of the car. Dead center about 1 foot back it ends. Right behind that is a metal frame piece, that is bent. This is where Toyota recommends you lift the car from. Sorry, this picture came out a bit blurry...it's the only one though.




After jacking up car, put supports on side of car.



Then find filter. It's on the passenger side.



Directly behind the filter casing is the oil pan. After changing the filter element, we will drain the pan, reset the plug and fill the car.

First step is to remove the center part of the assembly. The 3/8" socket end works nicely.



Unscrew it all the way, clean off with rag and set aside. DONT LOSE IT!

Then take the clear tubing and the prong piece that comes with the filter element and gasket. Push directly into the filter assembly.





Wait until oil stops dripping/running out. Takes about 10 minutes. When you take it out, kind of 'snap' it sideways and then pull it out. This will remove the gasket.





Then remove the actual assembly with the filter wrench.



Then remove element by pulling straight up gently.










Clean all with a rag. Also remove the larger gasket at this time. Then put new element into assembly. It's got a springy feel to it. Just use gentle pressure until seated.



Dunk new gasket into fresh oil.



Reseat on assembly.



Check out the car side, clean off any oil that has dripped down before reassembly.



I put the assembly back together w/out the filter wrench. It's hand tighten just like a normal filter. Just make sure not to mar the aluminum or it will leak. Take your time.



Put oil on small gasket, then put back on assembly at this time.



Put cap back onto assembly, again taking care not to mar the housing.



Take plug out of oil pan, and wait. Takes about 15 minutes for oil to stop coming out. It's like a river at first, so make sure pan is in proper location.



Replace plug. Add 6.4 quarts of oil.

After finishing, I realized that I hadn't taken pictures of the actual adding of oil to the car. I'm sure anyone that has decided to do this job will be competent enough to put the oil in!

Thanks and good luck!
 

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Venzoid
V6 Venza AWD
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Great tutorial with pics, well done!

I was just thinking about the cost of 7.5 litres of oil here in Canada and it would be around $35 dollars and that doesn't include the price of the filter assembly. Our dealership does the oil change for $35 plus taxes. Even though you make an appointment at the dealer it seems to take an hour for an oil change. On the other hand DIY is when you want and it lets you get to know your car a little better.
 

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CM,

Thanks for the tutorial.

I would however have questions on the procedure (I am NOT questionning the method, I just want to understand, as I'll start in about 2 year to chance oil myself)

Is there a particular reason why you change the filter before draining the pan? As I am doing it currently with other cars, I first drain the pan, which remove most of the oil fast, then I can remove the filter without worrying about oil dripping on the floor.

On the other hand, as I think about it, I guess I use a second oil pan to get the few drips from the oil filter.

When you remove the center part and before you insert the prong, there is no oil dripping from the filter assembly? It is the prong that "turns on the valve" ?

Thanks,

jf
 

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I just changed the oil on my i-4 . You need the special oil filter adapter to remove the filter housing. Its about 15-20 bucks. As for draining the filter, there is no real need for it, you can just remove it and just a little oil spills out.
 

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CM,

Thanks for the tutorial.

I would however have questions on the procedure (I am NOT questionning the method, I just want to understand, as I'll start in about 2 year to chance oil myself)

Is there a particular reason why you change the filter before draining the pan? As I am doing it currently with other cars, I first drain the pan, which remove most of the oil fast, then I can remove the filter without worrying about oil dripping on the floor.

On the other hand, as I think about it, I guess I use a second oil pan to get the few drips from the oil filter.

When you remove the center part and before you insert the prong, there is no oil dripping from the filter assembly? It is the prong that "turns on the valve" ?

Thanks,

jf
I just drain the filter assembly first, as it's indicated on the little box to do it that way.

Since only about 1/2 quart of used oil comes out, it probably doesn't much matter.

And no, there is zero oil coming out of the assembly after I drop the filter assembly down. (except of course whatever risidual oil is left. I just wipe that off before re-assembly).

The prong thing is below the top of the filter element, so I'm not sure how it works exactly.

*****************

As for the special 'tool' needed, please look at picture #1 and look at the black filter wrench located to the right of the oil bottles. It cost $3.47 at autozone. There is NO need for a special 'tool'. It is the exact same filter (traditional) wrench that fits the filter (traditional) for a 1997 Nissan Maxima V6.

Save yourself a bunch of money and just get it. It works very well, and there is no play. Here it is on the bottem of the just pulled assembly.

 

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CM,

Thanks for the tutorial.

I would however have questions on the procedure (I am NOT questionning the method, I just want to understand, as I'll start in about 2 year to chance oil myself)

Is there a particular reason why you change the filter before draining the pan? As I am doing it currently with other cars, I first drain the pan, which remove most of the oil fast, then I can remove the filter without worrying about oil dripping on the floor.

On the other hand, as I think about it, I guess I use a second oil pan to get the few drips from the oil filter.

When you remove the center part and before you insert the prong, there is no oil dripping from the filter assembly? It is the prong that "turns on the valve" ?

Thanks,

jf
Yes.... the plastic insert that comes with your new filter cartridge (and O-ring) compresses the spring-loaded valve in the cartridge housing and allows the residual used oil to flow from around the old cartridge... as shown by CMfromIL.

Special Note to all:

Since this is a really good reference for Venza DIY oil changes it merits it own thread. Therefore, it would be beneficial to keep this thread on-topic and not become another "oil Change Frequency Thread".

If it does, the two will merged

Thanks,

Bob
 

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Can someone post an i4 tutorial? Thanks.
 

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I tried using an oil filter wrench that worked on my 350z, pre runner, civic, and everything else I have owned. It was too big and it was the smallest size they carried at pep boys and autozone. I bought an aluminum one that was supposedly for cartridge type filter on ebay and it fit like a glove. Heres the link...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0311864624&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The i-4 change is exactly the same as the v6. Only difference is the oil filter wrench problem I ran into unlike the thread starter. When I eyeball the two wrenches I have, they look identical but the 3$ plastic one I have just keeps spinning..... O yea, I also bought 5 Wix filters for 15 bucks shipped on ebay. If you are planning on running 0w-20 synthetic with the i-4, Mobil-1 and Amsoil are the only choices I have seen so far.
 

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I am at my first oil change and am using a Purolator L25608 filter. The plastic filter adaptor that came with this filter to drain the filter has a screw threaded end instead of the 4 prong flanged plastic piece shown in your pictures. Did you notice any threads where the prongs on your adaptor goes? If there are no threads, I suspect that they gave me the wrong part.

Also, is the O-ring on the plastic filter drain adapter shown in your picture the small O-ring supplied with the new filter or is it a 3rd one specifically dor the adaptor?

I'm thinking that it might be a good idea to resolve these things before starting the filter change.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am at my first oil change and am using a Purolator L25608 filter. The plastic filter adaptor that came with this filter to drain the filter has a screw threaded end instead of the 4 prong flanged plastic piece shown in your pictures. Did you notice any threads where the prongs on your adaptor goes? If there are no threads, I suspect that they gave me the wrong part.

Also, is the O-ring on the plastic filter drain adapter shown in your picture the small O-ring supplied with the new filter or is it a 3rd one specifically dor the adaptor?

I'm thinking that it might be a good idea to resolve these things before starting the filter change.

Thanks
No threads on mine. I bought the one from Toyota, as it's actually cheaper than the aftermarket and I think it's a quality product.

The O-Ring that is on the drain adapter is the one that is 'pulled' from the filter housing when you remove it. When you are re-assembling the filter housing you take the new small O-Ring, dip it in the oil (new) and seat it in the filter housing.

Basically, there are 2 O-Rings for the whole job, and the replacements come in the box with the filter.

Replace the larger one and the smaller one.
 

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Don't get my venza until next week, but in reading this thread it looks like toyota (and likely others) have returned to the 50's and 60's on the oil filter. When I was a kid I worked at a gas station and many of the vehicles had canisters like this - albeit without the complication of two o-rings. Many people used to put a roll of toilet paper in for a filter and it worked ideally. It was a heavier filter than anyone else supplied. I wonder if a roll of toilet paper would fit in lieu of the aftermarket filter. Not for a financial savings, but for a better filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Don't get my venza until next week, but in reading this thread it looks like toyota (and likely others) have returned to the 50's and 60's on the oil filter. When I was a kid I worked at a gas station and many of the vehicles had canisters like this - albeit without the complication of two o-rings. Many people used to put a roll of toilet paper in for a filter and it worked ideally. It was a heavier filter than anyone else supplied. I wonder if a roll of toilet paper would fit in lieu of the aftermarket filter. Not for a financial savings, but for a better filter.
No.

But, if you give it the 'Old College Try' please make sure you start your own thread.:facepalm:
 

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By the way, thanks for your original post and the excellent pictures. FYI, I called Purolator today and asked them about this so that I could be sure that they gave me the correct adaptor. They told me that their adaptor comes with the filter and it does screw into the threads that hold the cap in place. Apparently a new adaptor comes with every Purolator filter (I think I paid about $8 for it at Pep Boys). Thanks again for the info, pix, and fast response. I'm new to ToyotaNation and this was my first inquiry.
 

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I've changed my own oil my entire life with two exceptions. Those exceptions were when my car was parked at a military base for a prolonged time and I had it changed at the base gas station before driving back to my home base. Once they put the filter on so tight I had to cut it off (even a screwdriver through it wouldn't turn it) and the other time they put the drainplug in so tight I had to put a metal pipe extension on the wrench to get it out. It seems the toyota engineers are making a basic task very complicated. I think the people who designed this setup also did the mop my wife bought. It's a swiffer wetjet - a two piece battery powered mop,... When you attach the large bottle of cleaner it is too heavy the two piece setup comes apart. Never in my life did I think I'd see anything like this - "instructions and videos/pictures" on how to change an oil filter. In any event, I think I'll simply remove the entire canister without the plastic drain and simply wipe the canister before putting it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Some people have done the change w/out draining the housing. It's certainly doable, but you will have about 3/4 quart of oil that will have not been drained so watch out for spillage.

I thought others that perhaps were unsure of how to change the oil would benefit from the thread. The filter assembly setup kinda threw me for a loop as I'm only used to traditional filters.

Anyway, I hope it helps everyone that reads it.

Have a nice day.
 

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Go Bolts!
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2009 V6 oil info

My wife brought our 2009 V6 in for the 10K maintenace and requested synthetic oil as we supposedly had put in @ 5K. The 5K oil was a 5W-30 Castrol. I requested a synth blend but they didn't have so they put in a full synth for the same price although I just checked the window sticker I stapled to the receipt from back then and it has GTX checked which I know is not synth. I remember I questioned this at the time and the service mgr assured my the full synth was put it. When I checked @ 8900 miles the oil looked very clean unlike it did @ 4800 miles so I would think this would be true or at least I hope so.

When I checked the receipt from the 10K change it listed 0W-20. The window decal also listed Castrol 0W-20. Is this OK? I thought 0W-30 synth should be used in lieu of 5W-30 and 0W-20 in lieu of 5W-20. I am not a car expert so any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Not sure why the dealer is using 0W-20. The manual for the 2009 Venza lists 5W-30 as the weight to use.

Even though the dealer is using a lighter grade, it's not really what the manual (Toyota) recommends. I would ask the dealer to draft a letter specifically stating that even though they are using an oil outside of Toyota recommendations that it will NOT affect your warrenty (and that they will assume 100% of any costs if it does affect the warrenty). I'd be suprised if they would fufill that request.:eek:

Just out of curiosity...how much does it cost at the dealer to get your oil changed?

It costs me about $30 USD to do a total change (6.4qt oil and a new Toyota filter insert) DIY.

Here is a detailed tutorial I made if you are interested in doing it yourself.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=338439

As far as Castrol is concerned, they do make a 100% synthetic. I don't think the GTX line is part of that family.
 

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My wife brought our 2009 V6 in for the 10K maintenace and requested synthetic oil as we supposedly had put in @ 5K. The 5K oil was a 5W-30 Castrol. I requested a synth blend but they didn't have so they put in a full synth for the same price although I just checked the window sticker I stapled to the receipt from back then and it has GTX checked which I know is not synth. I remember I questioned this at the time and the service mgr assured my the full synth was put it. When I checked @ 8900 miles the oil looked very clean unlike it did @ 4800 miles so I would think this would be true or at least I hope so.

When I checked the receipt from the 10K change it listed 0W-20. The window decal also listed Castrol 0W-20. Is this OK? I thought 0W-30 synth should be used in lieu of 5W-30 and 0W-20 in lieu of 5W-20. I am not a car expert so any help would be appreciated.
FYI: I talked to the service manager about oil and 5W-30 is used for all Venza's if not the warranty will be voided. If I where you, I ould go back to the dealer and dump the 0W-20.
 
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