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Discussion Starter #1
Well I have a 86 4 runner 4x4, and i am getting a little more knowledge with the work on my 90 toyota 4x4 both 22R-E,s... So i firgured what the hey I will crawl under the 4 runner and see where the oils leaks are coming from... So i clean it all up.. with simple green and a pressure washer and take it home and try to make it leak... I let it idle for oh bout 20 mins.. no drips no leaks... So i abjusted the throttle up thinking i was not getting enough oil presure to cause a leak... Still nothing.. SO i was happy right.. Well then noticed gear oil coming outta of the tranny.. Well i was happy to find out it was a lose drain plug.. so i snugged her up (the drain plug is now a her i guess).. And i filled it back up with 80-90 gear oil.. And i thought i was done... Then i noticed.. hmm i have a lose tranny blot.. So i tighten that up.. And as i did so.. i thought to myself gosh.. what else didnt the machanic do when he put in the new motor. ( i got the 2 runner with a new motor... got to keep the old one too to play with and tear apart.. good way to start for a nob like me..) So looked more at the tranny blots and I have heard stories of "the terrible 2 top tranny blots" (instert scary music for effect.. oh come on be a sport its more fun that way) .. So i thought i would reach a hand up there see if they where lose.. well yea they are more then lose they are GONE!! like never installed gone... So i was woundering if anyone knew where i could pick up more tranny blots easy.. all the wrecking yards i called dont want to part out blots they want to sell the tranny.. I believe i have the correct specs on the blots i just wanted to see if anyone knew where i could get them on line.. And the other blots too.. I only have the stiffener blots and the starter blots, and 2 of the blots on the side of the tranny.. ugh damn ppl doing shit half ass.. i hate half ass work.. so i wanna make it right..


Oh and the other moral to the story took the runner for a drive and it leaks.. out of the front main and as an added bouns out of the rear main or the pan... it doesnt seem bad now i just check my oil every other day and it goes thur bout a quart and a half per oil change.. subject to getting worse.. between what it burns and drips..

so what insite do you all have on this subject.. sorry if this is a little wordy and unclear.. I tend to rant a little when its late and i am pissed..
 

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You can get the bolts for the tranny at the dealer. It really isn't an item that they overcharge for.

For the oil leaks, the most common leak in the front is the oil pump seal. All you do is remove the harmonic balancer and it is staring right at you. Remove and replace. The seal is very cheap.

About 10 years ago I noticed that I was getting a little seepage of oil out of my oil pan. I found out that the bolts were so loose that I could snug them up by with my fingers so you may want to properly torque those down. Rear seal gets pretty involved. The seal itself is easy to change but removing the tranny and transfer case is where the real fun begins. If you decide to go this route, replace the clutch and all of its components and have the flywheel machined.
 

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Yeah, get em at the dealer, or just pull one out and take it to your local lowes/home depot and find it in grade 8 and put em in. Might not be a need for grade 8, but easier to just buy the best and not worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yea i know what you mean.. thanks for the help guys.. sorry my post was sooo long and invovled :)...
 

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One with the farce
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That's okay...it was funny. When you replace the oil pump o-ring (dealer only!) you should change the front main seal while it's off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea i am thinking i really should put a little work into the 4 runner... it wouldnt be that hard to take off the oil pump, and stuff... to check it out..

when you tighten the 5 bolts on the oil pump is there any order in which you do it? or is it just kinda common sense to tight em all a little at a time in a opposite star type patteren?
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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when you do the oil pump, pay attention to where the bolts come out. The bolt that goes in under the "timing indicator" goes through the cover. if the bolt is too long it will hit the timing chain tensioner.
 

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the oil pump oring isnt dealer only i have like 6 sitting in my garage from beck arnley front seal and timing cover kits. you may also want to consider a repair sleeve on your ballancer's seal mating surface if it has worn to where you can see a groove. most parts counter dumbasses will get you the rear main seal sleeve when you need the front sleeve. go to car quest if possible they are one of the few places that carry them down here locally, but i think thats because i live 3 blocks from the parts warehouse.

vicoor is also right about the tensioner getting bound up on the bolt on the top left side of the oil pump. you can pull the valve cover and look down with a flashlight if you are unsure .
 

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speeking of bolts, I got a quick question, should I bold on the tork... torck... torc...... torque (how ever the spell it) coverter in a star pattern? I have everything together already but fortunaly only a dinky plate covers the bottom part of it so I can still get to it??? should I have done it in a starpattern?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advise guys.. it was most helpful.. and i will soon undertake this project if i EVER get my rebuild done.. could i go to a factory shop and get all the bolts i needed? because they could order them? and have a parts list on mico flim?
 

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One with the farce
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o-ring is a dealer only item here!
 

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One with the farce
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I know, but at least I can go 4Xing less than a minute away from my house:D
 

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One with the farce
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haha, I saw those... it's kind of the same location for me!
 

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Big-Z said:
speeking of bolts, I got a quick question, should I bold on the tork... torck... torc...... torque (how ever the spell it) coverter in a star pattern? I have everything together already but fortunaly only a dinky plate covers the bottom part of it so I can still get to it??? should I have done it in a starpattern?
If I remember right, that is what the manual recommends. Just take look in it and see. Another thing I was always told was to torque them down half way, then go back and torque them the rest of the way. Then go around one last time at the final setting to be sure you didn't miss one. That is what I was taught for all torque procedures. I don't know if it is really necessary but I've never had any issues doing it that way so I just keep doing it.
 
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