Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Help! I need advise from you guys as I plan to replace my bad cv axle on both sides of the auto tranny. 2 questions i have 1) should the auto tranny be in neutral position or park when doing a cv axle replacement? 2) Read in some article that cv axle replacement should only be done 1 side at a time otherwise, the side bearings will be out of whack and the tranny won't engage properly after the work is done? Is this info accurate? Hope to hear frim you guys. TIA.
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,096 Posts
Park or Neutral won't matter if you lift both front wheels off the ground at the same time. I'd just do one side at a time, but no harm in having both out at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Toyotas.
Joined
·
486 Posts
Read in some article that cv axle replacement should only be done 1 side at a time otherwise, the side bearings will be out of whack and the tranny won't engage properly after the work is done? Is this info accurate? Hope to hear frim you guys. TIA.
Totally without merit. Consider: when a transmission is removed, for whatever reason, both axles must be removed first. If this were true, no transmission anywhere would work. Ever.

P.S. I removed a transmission to rebuild an engine in February. The transmission works even today.
 
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Help! I need advise from you guys as I plan to replace my bad cv axle on both sides of the auto tranny. 2 questions i have 1) should the auto tranny be in neutral position or park when doing a cv axle replacement? 2) Read in some article that cv axle replacement should only be done 1 side at a time otherwise, the side bearings will be out of whack and the tranny won't engage properly after the work is done? Is this info accurate? Hope to hear frim you guys. TIA.
Thank you very much for your replies. Will be undertaking this maintenance work for the 1st time but have previously watched s mechanic do it. Hope those axles don't give a hard time as I checked their part nos. and found them to be original JPP GKN's almost 25 years old. Hope I ger lucky...thanks for again for your info guys. This forum really helps us DIYers a lot. Stay safe.
 
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Totally without merit. Consider: when a transmission is removed, for whatever reason, both axles must be removed first. If this were true, no transmission anywhere would work. Ever.

P.S. I removed a transmission to rebuild an engine in February. The transmission works even today.
Thank you for your reply. Just had a previous experience where s mechanic did both removal at the same time and upon install woudn't engage the gears. But this was for a stickshift so I was cautious about the auto tranny. Much appreciated.
 

·
イリジウム
Joined
·
12,207 Posts
I seem to remember something of this sort, but I think it was for Detroit junk.

listen to Insight.



Help! I need advise from you guys as I plan to replace my bad cv axle on both sides of the auto tranny. 2 questions i have 1) should the auto tranny be in neutral position or park when doing a cv axle replacement? 2) Read in some article that cv axle replacement should only be done 1 side at a time otherwise, the side bearings will be out of whack and the tranny won't engage properly after the work is done? Is this info accurate? Hope to hear frim you guys. TIA.
 
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited by Moderator)
I seem to remember something of this sort, but I think it was for Detroit junk.

listen to Insight.
JohnGD yes you are right about that. It was fix or repair daily unit where my mechanic had to take out the whole tranny down and open it up to align the side gear bearings...so much hassle for not being familiar with their bad engineering design. Thanks.
 
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Park or Neutral won't matter if you lift both front wheels off the ground at the same time. I'd just do one side at a time, but no harm in having both out at the same time.
Hello again insightbrewery! Really appreciate your immediate response to my previous question. I now have a new question which i hope you would not mind answering? I am taking out my axles this weekend and sort of got confused as to the correct torque setting of the axle hub nuts. Per Haynes it is at 217 ft-lbs whereas a car part website says its 165ft-lbs. Which of this is correct? I will be reinstalling the same hubs with old bearings In place as this still has zero play. TIA...
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,096 Posts
217 as per the FSM I have.
 

·
Registered
1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
Joined
·
88 Posts
What engine to you have? getting to the right side lock ring is a beeottch. i used a really long needle nose, but its still really hard. do your self a favor, if you are leaking trans fluid from the seals, replace them. this job also requires much patience on the right side. make sure to lube the new ones up with silicone or something before reinstall. they will slide in easy then. I made the mistake of not doing this, and then had to redo the both sides all over again after I became anal about the leaks. trust me, getting the new CV axle out of the left side is much harder with a new CV axle. the factory orignal popped right now. not the case with the new one. do it right the first time!
 
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
SunglassesGuy, it has a 5S-FE engine. Have not started yet with the work got postponed. In the meantime, I already sprayed the usual areas of concern with PB Blaster hoping this will help make the removal much easier ( keeping my fingers crossed). I also have ordered online SKF oil seal replacements to ensure that the axles installed do not leak...i have seen axles that are really a PIA to take out especially the right one with the fixed bearing. Will try to pry out the lockpin carefully perhaps using a small chisel and hope this works. Got myself too some assorted pry bars and will be renting a slide hammer for the worst case scenario and make use of chains bolted to the protruding sections of the axle. Will let you tou know how this turns out. Thanks again for the input. Much appreciated here.
 

·
Registered
1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
Joined
·
88 Posts
My refereence is all to the V6, tranverse mounted setup. Pretty sure I ran across a few youtube videos on the 4 cylinder, I'd definintely search youtube and see if you can find a few and review them for any special tools needed. pulling the axles out of the transmission was pretty easy for me. no rust helps. even taking off the lock ring was not too hard - its just getting it back on. not sure if the 5S-FE setup has the same issue.
 

·
Registered
1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
Joined
·
88 Posts
Another thing you may want to consider while you are messing around down there is looking at power steering hoses and see if they need replaced, you'll have a lot of stuff out of your way to make this job easier. You will also have easier access to inner tie-rods and sway bar bushings. If you're cv boots have been bad for a while, its gonna get messy. Mine sure was! Power washed everything best I could before starting, but it was still a icky job.
 

·
Registered
1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
Joined
·
88 Posts
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
not sure what year your car is, looks like there is service manual fro 2003 and up for this job here Toyota Camry: Drive shaft, propeller shaft, axle (From July, 2003) - Drive shaft / propeller shaft
SunglassesGuy thanks for the link really apppreciate it. My camry is an old 3rd gen jpp tutsumi assembled unit which i think is known for its durability and longevity. Also appreciate your input regarding the check- up of the ps unit and its related components as this has escaped my attention. Already cleaned out the surrounding area too as really it is icky in there. Hopefully, my inner tierods are not shot so that i need not remove these from the rack & pinion assy anymore. My outer tre and bj still seems ok based my check-up but then this can be better confirmed when removed from the spindle assy. Thank you again for the help.
 

·
Registered
1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
Joined
·
88 Posts
but then this can be better confirmed when removed from the spindle assy.
BTW - you don't need to remove outer tie rod to do this job. only need to separate the hub from the strut. basically remove collar nut from axle, remote 2 big bolts holding strut, seperate and you will have enough room to pull the axle out of wheel bearing. nothing else needs to come off except brake hose holder and access panels. there is a good A1 Auto Youtube video on the procedure.
 
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
SunglassesGuy thanks for the input. Was able to see the same video but still wonder if the strut shock mounts will provide enough play to give enough clearance to enable me to pull out the axle without taking much off. As an added measure, I already prepainted and marked the bolts in all locations (strutmounts/shock eccentric bolts to the spindle assy) to guide me on their previous locations during reassembly to minimize any change to its present alignment and camber settings. My previous experience was it was difficult to ascertain the condition of the inner tie rod end bars attached to the rack and pinion assy. By taking out the outer tre, i can check if there is excessive play in there. Do you happen to know of any technique to check on this (except rocking this up/down and sideways) without necessarily removing the outer tre? My rule of thumb is, if the inner tre bar droops down on its own when this is not attached to the spindle via the outer tre, means that I have to do a replacement. Your input will be very much appreciated here as I am eager to learn from others. Thanks again in advance.
 

·
Registered
1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
Joined
·
88 Posts
Do you happen to know of any technique to check on this (except rocking this up/down and sideways) without necessarily removing the outer tre?
No, I really don't know a way, other than to take it off and feel it. You're way seems as good as any. I'd say if they have 100K miles on them, or lots of hours, they probably could use replacing if you want the best possible steering. That said, mine when 352K and when I took them out, they were not obliterated. I think that part of the steering is pretty forgiving, doesn't do a whole lot as far as keeping the car tracking straight, but does provide some tactile feedback when driving.
 

·
Registered
1999 Solara SLE, V6, 352,000 miles
Joined
·
88 Posts
BTW, its not required at all to have the drive axle out to get to the inner tie rod, but if you have both out, you get some good access to a lot of stuff down there that may need taken care of. (on a V6 anyway)
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top