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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1990 Camry 3S FE Automatic A140E

There are two compartments in the transmission. The transmission and the differential. Just found this out. I was hoping I fixed my tranny woes last fall when I replaced the transmission pan gasket. After the bolts vibrated loose and I hit a 6pack sized block of ice from a mudflap at 70 km/h the tranny started leaking pretty bad. The dent even crushed the screen in the transmission. Had to smash the pan back into shape.

Automatic Transaxle Differential

So the oil needs to be changed in the transaxle differential, and the access is limited. With the east-west crossmember removed I can clearly see both the fill and drain plugs on the very back of the transmission.

I am thinking of using a funnel with a 3 foot tube on it. Has anyone had success with this method?

Anyone have an oil recommendation? I put a synthetic import ATF in the tranny, should I use the same stuff?

I don't know the capacity of the transaxle, how much oil will go in there?

I doubt this oil has ever been changed, hopefully the plug isn't as tight as the pans plug, ended up rounding that one off when I did the pan gasket.
 

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chrome won't get you home
2012 Corolla
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2,485 Posts
That's the differential you're looking at. The transmission and differential are separate units but they both require Dexron III fluid (Dexron II originally). Same for power steering. Not sure if synthetic ''import'' fluid is compatible. Did you use Castrol Import ATF?

I use the funnel and tube method. Remove the fill plug (top) before removing the drain plug because if the fill plug is frozen solid you'll be in trouble when you'll try to put the fluid back in there. Park the car on a flat surface and fill it until fluid pours out of the fill plug. It will take around 1.6L.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Phil, IIRC it was Castrol Import ATF.

Yes the differential is the compartment I would like to drain. The tranny oil was black when I drained it last year so I want to change the differential oil this year.

I changed the trannyoil in my Honda last month so I just would like to do all the trannys.







 

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Discussion Starter #5
Differential Oil change

The differential oil was very easy to change. This procedure is probably possible with the east-west cross member still on the vehicle. I had the luxury of having it removed for the power steering repair.

Tools needed:
-1.6 L ATF
-Jack and stands
-Drain pan
-Funnel
-3ft of 5/8" or smaller tubing
-Rags
-17mm wrench
-10mm Hex Key

1. With the Camry up on stands, the left tire was already removed on my car, but is not totally necessary but easier to see through the steering rod hole.
I started by cleaning the area with brake clean and a wire brush. Then wiped it clean with a rag.

2. Next, I loosened the Fill and Drain plugs just to make sure they weren't seized. The upper fill plug requires a 17mm wrench. I held it on there and pushed it with my foot. Threaded out by hand after loose. For the Drain plug I used a 10mm Hex Key with the handle from the jack over it to get enough force. There is an aluminum washer on each plug.


3. With a pan under the differential removed both plugs, about 1.6 litres of dirty pink ATF drained out. The drain plug has a little magnet to catch any metal fillings. There was more than I wanted to see built up on this plug.


4. With all the oil drained, I cleaned the threads and reinserted the drain plug and tightened it. With the funnel and three feet of clear tubing with some tape on the end for the trip down beside the firewall; there is a few ways it can get down there from the top. The 5/8inch tubing worked perfectly, fit snug in the hole and didn't let any oil leak past it when in the fill hole. I only inserted it about an inch.


5. Filling with oil. Thank you for the recommendation of 1.6 litres of ATF. With that neat measuring funnel with valve, I measured 800ml x2. It was just perfect, a little above the fill level.


6. Since the car was on stands, I just pulled the hose and stuck the fill plug on quickly to keep a little extra in there since the car wasn't totally level.
I tightened the plugs by feel but the manual specs:
-Drain plug is 36 ft-lbs
-Fill plug is 7 ft-lbs. (think I might have overtightened this one)

To finish off, I smeared some grease around the fill and drain plugs to keep the corrosion away. This procedure was pretty easy and took only a half hour or less. This probably hasn't been done in 20 years to this car.:laugh:
-Jay
 

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Nice write-up. Need to do mine, too, but man, that top bolt is incredibly tight. Wondering about the use of an impact wrench to avoid rounding with a normal socket/ratchet.

And 36 ft/lbs of torque seems quite excessive for the drain plug ...

Anyone have recommendations or a thumbs-down on the use of an additive along with the new fluid?
 
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