[Braddale]

I have a 2000 with the 4 speed auto, is it ok to use the newer formulations of the Dexron fluid in it? It calls for Dexron 11 or 111, but they have been replaced with newer formulations that are semi-synthectic. Castrol makes a fluid that will replace both the Dexron 11 and 111.

Also the manual says that a drain and refill you will need 3 litres to refill, can anyone tell me it that is accurate?

Thanks.

 

[KeMBro2012]

If you're not dropping the pan, that is accurate.

Dex-IV might not kill your transmission but it will definitely shorten its life; Valvoline still makes a Dex-III, which is what I recommend to use. Others on this forum recommend other brands, but my 99 seems to like the Valvoline stuff.

 

[Braddale]

I dont want to put anything in it that would shorten its life, maybe I should just get the Dex 111 from the dealer to be on the safe side.
They sell it in the 1 litre size.

 

[leakyseals]

The dex III from the dealer is fairy cheap, or the Dex III recommended above. Use that and a bottle of Lubegard Red. LR is maybe the best additive for a transmission ever made.

 

[ADROX]

my 99 corolla's fluid is light brown. has anyone had success in changing the fluid without the trans going out afterwards. I know fords are horrible about that and you're better off leaving it alone at that point.

 

[KeMBro2012]

my 99 corolla's fluid is light brown. has anyone had success in changing the fluid without the trans going out afterwards. I know fords are horrible about that and you're better off leaving it alone at that point.

I dropped the pan on my 99 and replaced the filter and the slightly larger amount of fluid associated with doing that, twice, about a year apart from each other. I forget how many miles it had on it at the time, but I'm pretty sure it was in the 180k range (update: I looked at that thread again, it was a hair over 160k). Trans is like new now.

Do I think you'll see the same results? Not likely. When the transmission fluid picks up a lot of grit, it becomes a sort of polishing compound and will wear everything smooth over time. At that point, the grit in the fluid is the only thing providing the friction the transmission needs.

Some on this forum will tell you you'll be fine, even at this point, and they may be right, maybe Corollas don't have that problem. Some here have done several flushes on their Corollas and have had no issues whatsoever. I know my 99's trans is like brand new after 2 pan drops, so there might be some merit to it for these cars.

There's a thread I started about ATF additives, which quickly became an automatic transmission maintenance thread, which should be a good read for you: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/131-8th-generation-1998-2002/403693-atf-additives.html

 

[ADROX]

yeah it's got 175k on it. just bought it used. ok well maybe I'll try it without the pan drop the first time and with an additive to see how it handles that then drop the pan later on. keep my fingers crossed on it though. thanks

 

[KeMBro2012]

I suggest reading through that thread I linked to before using any additives. The best ones do nothing, the worst ones can cause problems.

Of course, there's one that transmission shops swear by (it's mentioned in the thread, as well) that might be worth a try.

If it's 175k and abused, a pan drop might be in order, just to clean out as much grit as possible.

 

[leakyseals]

I don't see the need to change the filter every drain and fill. Even less of a worry with the highly friction modified fluids like T-IV and WS. Its a sealed system, not exposed to air, fuel, dirt, etc. When to change the filter depends how you took care of it, how often you drained it, etc. Lubegard is an excellent additive, the only additive to use. Use the Lubegard "Red", and your troubles disappear.

 

[KeMBro2012]

I don't see the need to change the filter every drain and fill. Even less of a worry with the highly friction modified fluids like T-IV and WS. Its a sealed system, not exposed to air, fuel, dirt, etc. When to change the filter depends how you took care of it, how often you drained it, etc. Lubegard is an excellent additive, the only additive to use. Use the Lubegard "Red", and your troubles disappear.

Indeed, the filter should only be changed in a well-abused transmission, or after a whole heckofalot of miles (200k or so sounds reasonable). The trans in my 99 was dirty enough, from 160k miles of abuse, to clog 2 filters; had it been maintained well, it would still be on its first filter. The filter in it now will still be in it when it hits 360k, no doubt.

It is, however, far from a sealed system. It has an overflow, which is open-air and if you've ever removed the dipstick to check the fluid level, you're further exposed it. Even ignoring that, clutch packs are a wear park which produce small bits as they wear down, which is another source of contamination.

At $17 a pop, though, it's definitely a waste to change the filter frequently. In my case, it was a necessity in terms of repair and getting the transmission to a known state. Now that I'm there, I can leave it alone.

 

[Braddale]

I had mine flushed a few years ago and I am almost certain they used a semi-sythetic fluid. I just wanted to freshen the fluid for summer driving by doing a drain and refill.
I will play it safe and buy the Dexron 3 from the Toyota dealer.

 

[KeMBro2012]

I had mine flushed a few years ago and I am almost certain they used a semi-sythetic fluid. I just wanted to freshen the fluid for summer driving by doing a drain and refill.
I will play it safe and buy the Dexron 3 from the Toyota dealer.

Good call. After that, just keep up with a drain and fill like you're planning, every year or two. Yearly might be a bit much, but every couple years is probably a good idea.

Maybe leakyseals or Bennie can pop in with a bit more info on Lubegard; I don't use it, so I don't want to recommend it, but they both do (along with many transmission shops) and I know leaky mentioned it already in this thread. Like I said, I won't recommend it, personally, because I've never used it, but I will recommend listening to leakyseals and Bennie on this topic, because they do know their stuff.

 

[fishexpo101]

I've been using Valvoline Maxlife DexronIII/Mercon ATF - in red bottles, with pretty good results. Pretty easy to find and the spec's point to it being a semi-synthetic or synthetic blend (depending on which others you compare it to).

Used to run Redline ATF - love the stuff - but it is tough to find / can be quite costly.

Lubeguard - MSDS makes it look like a ester/PAO based synthetic additive. To me, that sounds like you add this to regular ATF and end up with a semi-synthetic blend/concoction. Personally - I'm not a big fan of additives, but a quick look doesn't turn up anything in there makes it "bad".

 

[KeMBro2012]

Personally - I'm not a big fan of additives, but a quick look doesn't turn up anything in there makes it "bad".

Ditto.

Looking at the actual product, I think Bennie said it best, and I'm paraphrasing here, when he said "at worst, it's doing nothing". Nothing in there should be harmful at all.

 

[Guest]

do the drain and fill and then afterwards you pump the remaining fluid out one quart at a time.......it is a POC......there are how to's around.......if you dont pump the remaining fluid out you are just contaminating the newer fluid...............I am a lubegard REd supporter also.....................................and I aslo support changing the fluid no matter what condition/mileage........

I dropped the pan on my 2006 Vibe, changed the fluid and then pumped the remaining 4? liters out. I used toyota type 4 it is a little messy..I did it in my driveway.....took about 1.5 hours

a few how to drain and pump out
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...09-diy-full-automatic-transmission-flush.html

http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-automatic-transmission-flush-406503/

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...la-ce-auto-transmission-flush-experience.html

http://www.diymytoyota.com/corolla/...luid-exchange-strainer-replacement-procedure/

 

[Bennie]

We've talked about all this stuff in many threads. Everybody has a little different view and has a different favorite fluid they use. The most common thing we agree on is that you are asking for trouble if you don't perform any transmission preventative maint.

Flush (I've never had any issues afterwards)
Pan drop (I like to see what things are looking like)
Filter change (well if you have the pan off anyways)
Lubegard (Had enough transmissions shops recommend it exclusively)

If you have a good working transmission and are looking to do PM, non of these should have a negative affect. If your transmission is acting up all bets are off.

I personally prefer flushes (100% fluid change), filter every other flush, and Lubegard. I'd back any single one of the first 3 on the list because they will all help get/keep cleaner fluid in there.

 

[KeMBro2012]

If you have a good working transmission and are looking to do PM, non of these should have a negative affect. If your transmission is acting up all bets are off.

Indeed, and this is why I suggest ONLY a partial fluid change (along with a filter change) if the trans is already acting up; and keeping the old fluid and filter to swap those back in to replenish some of that grit if it turns out to be all that was keeping it running.

At least that way you know what's coming up and can prepare *before* it goes out completely. Not maintaining it at all and just letting it die when it's ready might get you a month or two more use out of it, but it hits at a moment's notice, so you're without a vehicle until you can get it repaired. Forcing the issue gets the transmission to more or less tell you if it's gonna go out or not, so you can plan accordingly.

Then, once you've got everything in order and working well, you can hit it with a flush.

 

[silverone]

do the drain and fill and then afterwards you pump the remaining fluid out one quart at a time.......it is a POC......there are how to's around.......if you dont pump the remaining fluid out you are just contaminating the newer fluid...............I am a lubegard REd supporter also.....................................and I aslo support changing the fluid no matter what condition/mileage........

I dropped the pan on my 2006 Vibe, changed the fluid and then pumped the remaining 4? liters out. I used toyota type 4 it is a little messy..I did it in my driveway.....took about 1.5 hours

a few how to drain and pump out
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...09-diy-full-automatic-transmission-flush.html

http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-automatic-transmission-flush-406503/

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...la-ce-auto-transmission-flush-experience.html

http://www.diymytoyota.com/corolla/...luid-exchange-strainer-replacement-procedure/

I did the driveway flush as well pretty easy , it was a little messy I think you need about 3 gallons to completely flush it. my tranemission shop also swears LG red. but that was for my f350 if you use it make sure you use the right formula ,

 

[Paul007]

Toyota Type T4 Fluid for 2001 Corolla

I had called SouthBay Toyota Parts Dept & checked if they have Dexron III. THey told they don't have it in stock.

Then I checked their Service Dept. They confirmed that we can use Toyota Type T4 Fluid for 2001 Corolla. So I am planning to use T4 in my rolla. ( $6.9 per qt)

Looking for member experiences with T4.

 

[leakyseals]

Completely different fluid chemistry with completely different characteristics. Its a better fluid no doubt. You will find out soon enough. Let us know.