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Transmission fluid change - Camry V6 U660E 150k miles

14K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  matt2grfe 
#1 ·
Hello guys,
I have a 2013 Camry V6 and I am wondering if I should do a drain and fill fluid change to my transmission.
I dont currently have any issues with shifting. Everything works great.
But I can hear a strange groaning sound while the vehicle is in reverse. The groaning sound is also present in neutral but it is relatively faint.
I also notice the same faint groaning/whine when it is very hot outside (above 80F) and I'm accelerating (only noticed it once or twice).
My question is:
Is it too late to have my fluid changed? I dont want to change it and then experience slipping. Also, could my whining sound simply be from a low fluid level?
Can I check the fluid level on my own if the fluid temp is between 104F and 113F? Or do I need a vacuum pump and special straw?
I want my car to last as long as possible. I didnt change the fluid sooner because my dad said it was a bad idea to change it. I dont know what to do. Any personal experience would be greatly appreciated!
 
#3 ·
Getting the level right is a bit tricky since there is no dipstick.
Read through the instructions carefully, and if you are not up to it, have it done at a GOOD shop.
On vehicles with a transmission dipstick, I used to do it myself.
My 2016 Camry, I had the fluid exchanged at the dealership for about $200.

Some have done a drain & fill and carefully measure the amount that comes out and put in the exact same amount of new fluid as came out.
This works if the new fluid is the same temperature as the old and the fluid level in your transmission is correct to start with.

I didn't have the filter changed as my Camry was only 3 years old with about 50K miles on it.
At 90-100K, I may have the fluid changed again along with the filter.

I have been a bit lazy with this car and have even had the oil changes done at the dealership.
I found a dealership that has a great service department that has not tried to take advantage of me so far.
I feel comfortable having the car get a good looking over by a good service person from time to time.
The cost, with coupon is only about $15 more than the cost to do it myself.
 
#5 ·
Don't be afraid of the built-in drain tube/straw, it is just there to allow both a complete draining and also the correct final overflow level (done on level ground).
Do get either a good thermometer or a reader for your car's internal trans temp sensor, so the level upon last refill will be correct.
I haven't heard of any unusual difficulty with this job, or removing/replacing the pan or anything.

I would use a funnel and clean hose to refill the fluid from atop the engine bay, as opposed to trying to feed in fluid from below, unless you have a convenient pumping device at hand. Expect some overflow and have a pan in place to catch it.

Use Toyota-specified fluid only. I would drain three times myself.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the input! The only thing I am afraid of is since the fluid has never been changed, that when I put new fluid in, it will super clean the clutches inside and cause slipping that did not happen before. I dont know how often that happens with the new transmission fluids and materials, but my dad told me that it happened to older types of transmissions. But I also know that of I keep using the dirty fluid, eventually things are going to break anyways. I know now that I should've changed the fluid as soon as I got the car, at 60k miles. But I wasnt really into doing my own maintenance way back then.
 
#11 ·
My brother in law (toyota tech) says there all "strainers" and never need to be replaced unless they get clogged ,which is rare. Most after market choices come with filters though. Change your filter every 75 to 100,000 maybe. Drain and refills are more often. I like to remove the pan and clean the magnets in the first 50,000. Then you're good to go for a while. My brother in law said the fluid is supposed to be "lifetime".....I just smiled. :)
 
#13 · (Edited)
I do the same with the Trans fluid. Filter has not been changed but pan was dropped and cleaned once (there are magnets on bottom of pan to catch metal particles). I have 128K on a 2012 SE with 4 cylinder. Shifts better than new ( had program updated by the dealer) and still has the original torque converter.

Each time I go in I argue with the dealer about changing the "lifetime" fluid. In the end. the customer wins. ?

I changed my 2013 highlander "lifetime" fluid at 80K myself and it was black, Was much cleaner at 110K. so 25-30K is a good change period.
 
#17 ·
I watched that whole video a little while back, but you only need the vacuum pump if the car is HOT hot. If the trans fluid is between 104F and 113F, you can use the built-in straw to get the fluid level correct. But the regular operating temp is 185+, so if a garage wanted to take walk-in transmission appointments, they would need to follow the very complicated vacuum procedure. I am very glad to hear him say you can use the built in straw!
 
#18 · (Edited)
In the past the dealer under filled mine. Not as simple as one thinks. You do not need a vac pump but I would definitely fill it per the procedure then take for a drive. Wait until the next morning then check it again after the trapped air works its way out. I start it the following morning, run through the gears (without moving) and as soon as my hand feels warmth on the pan, check it.

To drain it you remove the plug then you insert the hex key into the hole to unscrew the straw. When draining is done, screw the straw back in and fill it.

I typically fill until a slow drips come out then put in another 1/4 to 1/2 quart. You should have a fairly good stream coming out when you are done. I fill through the straw but some vehicles have a threaded plug on the side which you can remove and fill through. I read you need to take off your drivers front tire and possibly a plastic cover to access the plug.

I bought a $15 Chapin pump sprayer which holds about 1 gallon from the local hardware store. Cut the spray head off leaving about 2" of the tubing on the trigger and use it to fill through the straw hole. Lot easier than using the hand pump you screw on the top of a quart container.

 
#19 ·
Aisin transmissions don't slip or have other problems when old WS fluid is gradually replaced with new via successive 2-3 quart oil pan drains and refills. The procedure to check the fluid level at 104 degrees F (U660E V6 transmission) is pretty simple as shown in the first 3 1/2 minutes of the youtube video below. Also pretty simple to drain and refill the pan as shown in the next 3 minutes of the video.

Removing the oil pan to replace the filter is tricky on the V6 and not covered in the video, but for now you can at least get some fresh fluid in your transmission.

Other youtube videos cover Camry /Avalon/ Lexus ES350 U660E V6 oil pan and filter removal.
 
#21 ·
One of the YouTube vid's mentioned that the 4-cyl version gives a wider temperature range for checking the level, wondering if the 95-113F range applies to my 2015 SE(?).

Another video mentioned you could check the temperature by shorting pins 4 and 13 to put a temp readout on the dash. Are these the pins in the scanner connector under the dash?
Does the readout appear as DegreesF?
Does this work on a 2015SE?
I like being able to read the temperature accurately for free, and without having to hang out under the car waiting.
 
#23 ·
I guess my question then is where do we get this information as to which pins for which model/year of car, and which temperature range?

The hardest part of doing this job seems to be getting the car verifiably level and with space underneath to reach the drain plug.
I will be setting up two levels perpendicular to each other on a board that will be secured in the car, then I will get the car on level ground and calibrate the levels to float in their centers. Now I will be able to re-zero these levels with jack adjustments while my car is raised for the fluid servicing.
 
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