In the past 6 months I have replaced the engine and transmission, alternator, breaks, Radiator, power steering pump, rack, A/C, Heads, lets just say all i need is a new body and its a new car... Every part down to the gas tank and lines were replaced, every sensor every wire every connector.
My problem truly lies in the the Tranny. my vehicle starts up fine but after about 30 minutes of driving if i need to accelerate heavy i lose power and gain it back, lose and gain. Its as if the transmission can not shift properly, but its not rough, the car doesnt seem to surge, its just the sound and of course almost no power. then after about 45 minutes of driving it seems to go into a limp mode and has no power whatsoever, put the pedal down and it still has none. by about an hour of driving it may still be running it may not, when it dies however it is not a show, it just shuts the engine down and i coast to a stop.
I took the vehicle to the toyota dealership and they said it was my tranny and that my driver side CV axel has come lose and that the boot was ripped. I do know for a fact though i did have the CV axel in properly due to the pop from it locking into place. The boot rip was also due to my father trying to get to my rack and replacing it without me. This is a long going problem existing since i got it running. Help would be appreciated, or my money has been wasted.
When I hit the throttle the RPMs do not go up, but i can hear that its sort of droning like its intentionally trying to keep me at a low RPM.
The only code I have pulled is for the coolant temp sensor which when i bought it it was broken and i replaced it that evening. But thats the only code i have had yet
I think there's a separate procedure for pulling transmission codes. If I recall it causes the O/D light to flash by shorting TE1 and E1 together on the OBDI connector. However, a ripped boot can cause a CV joint to fail fairly quickly. I had a Honda tech tell me theirs can fail in less than 1,000 miles with a ripped or broken boot. But he's seen Toyota's go closer to 10,000 miles under the same conditions. What's odd though is a bad CV joint shouldn't 'fix' itself. Also the engine would rev but you wouldn't go anywhere as all the 'power' would be going to the axle which was no longer turning the wheel/tire. I would suspect a bad shift solenoid but that shouldn't shut the engine down. Sounds like you really do need to get it checked out by some other shops.
I have no codes whatsoever coming up on this vehicle, I have gotten the tranny fully flushed and checked out at 3 shops, the most current being a dealer because they are so expensive, and they only left me with the tidbit of "Its the transmission, the boot is torn, and the bolts for the CV are loose" The CV bolts werent the problem nor did they cause it because ive had the problem for awhile, it did get better after changing spark plugs (weird yes because they did say it was a transmission)
Although as i just wrote that response I do remember a connector that baffled my father (mechanic) his friend (mechanic) and myself (non-certified mechanic) on where it went to, the length only allowed it to be plugged into or "connected" to the tranny, yet there was no connector to be found in the location, we even went back to the old engine and tranny and couldnt find it there either. The connector reaches into the rear of the tranny and thats about it, no under no side, just some of the top and back, cant even reach the engine, it basically has no home the wire is so short, and it hasnt been cut to repair it at all.
really hope that helps and that there is some sort of magic spot in the back of the tranny
well now im shocked at that location for the sensor, ill have to crawl up under there and find it like i have many times before.
The reason why im here after the dealership is because I paid a lot of money and I dont make much, and need to tackle the problem myself, but they didnt tell me what was wrong, just that it was my transmission.
ALSO i have noticed after i lose power, and am able to get the speed up to about 25 or 30, let off the gas all the way and slowly open the throttle, it will accelerate somewhat normal. If i do not let off the gas and keep it down at any position it will just stay at the same RPM, wont shift or anything and just move and slowly accelerate. Could this be a problem with it downshifting? again when I heavily accelerate the problem occurs when its at a high speed and its at 3rd gear to 4th when it happens, under a light acceleration the shifting is seamless and you wouldnt notice it has even shifted unless the Radio, Blowermotor and such is off to listen.
So i do have a connector connected to the speed sensor no. 2... so this other connector just still seems to be random, and i checked my old transmission for the giggles and no connector, im at a dead end there, although i wont get a chance to work on it this week if any suggestions occur.
I'd also pull the SL solenoid connector (the one by the neutral safety switch on 4-cyls) and maybe even remove it for cleaning/checking. Another possibility is that the torque converter clutch stayed locked.
John, that was actually my pan for this upcoming Saturday and if any other suggestions came try those too. But thank you! Now I feel as though im heading down the right path
yes both have the sensor, theres just another connector that doesnt seem to go anywhere, it can reach number 2 thats it, but every other sensor has a home to their respective connector. Ill double check everything
Could you take a picture of this connector thats not attached to anything for us please?
The only sensors that connect on the rear of the 93 transmission are a Speed Sensor on the differential, and the No2 Speed Sensor (two wire plug - Green wires)
If your car really is in limp home mode, it should have a stored code.
Otherwise, assuming that the transmission fluid is full and looks good AND transmission oil pressure is fine (you did check that, didn't you), then I'm thinking that your transmission is having trouble determining what speed you are going, as in it's a TPS, VSS, or ECU problem, or wiring for one of these. I am also wondering if there is more than one VSS used in this transmission. I've seen it before on other cars.
You said that you replaced the engine and transmission but I still want to know how many miles are on the car and how many miles are on the replacement engine/transmission?