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As a continuation of -> https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/grinding-low-pitch-rubbing-noise-when-accelerating.1660348/#post-14099862

Transmission shop said a bearing was going bad in the transmission. I had them install a used transmission. They said it would be more cost effective and I unfortunately lack the knowledge to perform transmission work. I'm more of a semi-advanced DIYer.

Upon receiving the car, the moment I started it up, there is a moderate-severe vibration at idle. If i rev the engine in neutral, drive, or park, the vibration is heard/felt throughout the vehicle. Steering wheel, seats, doors. It's bad. After about 2k RPM the vibration goes away, but it doesn't sound the same. (granted it's been about a month without driving it)

To add to my frustration/lack of confidence. They left grease marks on the handles, arm rest, they stained the passenger seat with some liquid, which is god knows what, AND my AC doesn't work anymore. Had 0 issues with AC or vibration at idle, and within 10 minutes of driving the vehicle, notice all of these things.

So, I come to you guys for guidance. The shop said they noticed the vibration, didn't remember it before, checked the mounts, but didn't see anything. (Why the F*** do you release a vehicle when you know it's not in the same condition it was brought in) I'm almost 100% certain the issue is within the transmission/install. Do you need to take apart AC lines/condensers/do anything at all with the AC for a transmission swap?

Preliminary google searches show maybe the torque converter was installed improperly? If you would like a video of the sound (which certainly makes sense) I'll work on that tomorrow, I just wanted to put this out there to get the ball rolling.

TLDR

Transmission shop installed used transmission.
Car vibrates very badly at idle, park, neutral, drive (below 2k rpm)
AC doesn't cool anymore.


What should I be looking for/suggesting? The guy seems open to checking it over again, and I'm hoping they are honest enough to correct their mistakes. I just need some knowledge.

Thank you boys/girls in advance!
 

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No, you don't do anything to the A/C components when doing this job.

Not sure about the torque converter, but my initial reaction is to recheck all the mounts. I suspect they were reinstalled incorrectly, and/or they were damaged during the job. There's a rear mount, a transmission mount on the driver's side, and a front mount. I don't think you have to mess with the passenger side mount when doing this job, but it wouldn't hurt to check it too, as they may have damged it if they did not properly support the engine when doing this job.

Here's a DIY by TN super moderator hardtopte72 if you'd like to see all the steps in this job:

 

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I'm just curious if you don't mind me asking, what is generally the cost of having the transmission replaced on this type of vehicle ? Like average expected cost at a non-dealer ?
 

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I'm just curious if you don't mind me asking, what is generally the cost of having the transmission replaced on this type of vehicle ? Like average expected cost at a non-dealer ?
The OEM/Dealer warranty labor time rate is 6.2 hours. The Chilton suggested service time is 8.9 hours, which agrees with hartopte72's DIY statement: "Total time spent performing this DIY was around 11 hours. That included time to take pictures, eat breakfast, setup tools, turn on the air compressor, and actually performing the job. In reality 8-10 hours is more reasonable." As an example, a labor rate of $75/hour x an 8.9 hour service time = $667.50 plus fluid, seals, etc. Of course, labor rates are all over the board depending on location and market factors. You can probably find someone to do it for less, but someone else will charge more.
 

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Yeah, I think the problem is with the shop. Mounts also came to my mind first. As far as AC, it might be a forgotten connector. They shouldn't need to touch AC at all.

In any case no way they should leave the car in the condition it's described. A "used transmission" is a junkyard pull. How much did they charge you?

Next time try an ATRA shop, some can be duds, so check references.
 

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The OEM/Dealer warranty labor time rate is 6.2 hours. The Chilton suggested service time is 8.9 hours, which agrees with hartopte72's DIY statement: "Total time spent performing this DIY was around 11 hours. That included time to take pictures, eat breakfast, setup tools, turn on the air compressor, and actually performing the job. In reality 8-10 hours is more reasonable." As an example, a labor rate of $75/hour x an 8.9 hour service time = $667.50 plus fluid, seals, etc. Of course, labor rates are all over the board depending on location and market factors. You can probably find someone to do it for less, but someone else will charge more.
Thanks John. If the labor is $667.50, how much does the transmission part cost ? I've always heard the engine and transmission are the most expensive components to replace. This is just something to keep in mind for me depending on if they need to be replaced at some point, b/c depending on the car's value it may exceed it. Of course for sentimental value there's no price, but just vs. resale.
 

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Pick-N-Pull in San Antonio, TX charges $100 for the transmission and $35 for the core charge. Obviously it will cost more if you pay someone or the yard to pull the transmission for you. These automatic transmissions in the Gen 9 Corolla are so very reliable, that I would have no hesitations in getting a used one from a wrecked vehicle. 380K on my transmission and it operates perfectly.
 

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The going rate for an A245E at a parts recycler is around $300 - $400. I spent around $400 for a 5-6 year old transmission with only 75K miles.

As for your issues, the vibration itself sounds like a torque converter issue. This can happen if the converter was dry when installed and ran. However like other mentioned, mounts can cause a vibration as well, especially if never replaced. These cars have 3 transmission mounts (front, rear, and driver side), all of which could have been damaged during a transmission swap.

As for the A/C, that could be damage during the job or an unplugged connector. If you have the basic knowledge of car air conditioning, you can check to see if:

1. The compressor is even turning.
2. Any connectors are obviously unplugged (specifically the pressure switch located near the passenger side fender/headlight area) and the compressor clutch connector located on the compressor itself and running along the alternator harness near the passenger side front of the engine).

Regardless, I would say bring it back and see if they fix it.
 

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I just wanted to say thank you for the replies so far. I’m going to inspect some AC connectors tonight/tomorrow. I’ll inspect some engine mounts to the best of my ability as well.

Would there be any other symptoms of an incorrectly installed torque converter? I noticed the car felt faster? (Obviously a working transmission can contribute) (also I guess an unfilled torque converter would spin free-er?)

I was also able to rev the engine in drive (from idle to about 2k rpm) with no engagement/acceleration noticed. I was coasting in my apartment complex, below 10/15 mph, but could rev a bit with no acceleration. Could that be a torque converter problem?
 

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Usually junkyard transmissions carry a 30 day warranty. If they decide it's the transmission (which might have come with a junkyard torque converter), then they should swap it out under warranty, if they gave you warranty.

Maybe the torque converter was not properly mounted to the flexplate (if the single alignment bolt was properly installed first)? Dunno.

If the transmission flares like it’s in neutral that junk’s gotta come out.
 

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What you are describing is a flare/slip which could definitely be caused by the converter or even the transmission itself.
 
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