truck will not start

My truck has started doing the same thing. I will start and then go dead. over and over. Do I need a new cold start injector? Also truck goes dead if I give it gas while it is cold. IT is acting like it did before I adjusted the TPS. Could the TPS going bad?

My '94 Pickup had a similar problem. It would start, run for 3 to 5 seconds, then die. It would do this over and over again. After replacing the Throttle Position Sensor and the Air Flow Meter, the problem was still there. It was only after I closely examined the fuel injection wiring in a service manual did I discover that there was relay in the truck cab identified as a Circuit Opening Relay, which controlled the fuel pump. The relay is located behind of the the passenger side kick panel above the ECU. After replacing the Circuit Opening Relay, the engine started and ran normal. Hope this helps.

thanks

checked relay it was good and working found efi relay inder hood bad by passed it to c if it woul=d run runs for about 5-10 secs then check engine light starts flashing and truck stutters and dies like no fuel. What else you got for me ?

Before going any further you should replace the EFI Relay if it is bad.

If the problem is still there, you will need to check the ECU for error codes. I purchased a simple Computer Decoder from Carquest Auto Parts which includes a booklet containing instructions for using the Decoder and the code definitions.

In my case, I took a first reading, then erased the memory and took a second reading to validate the codes.

I replaced the relay it ran killed it cranked it let it idle for like 30 min killed it got ready to test drive it and it wouldnt crank. found a vacum leak fixed it it cranked but the check engine light flickered and then the truck died and hasnt hit a lick since

If I understand correctly, after replacing the relay, the engine started and ran (idled) for 30 minutes before you killed it. However, when you tried to re-start it, the engine would crank over but wouldn't start and run.

If the engine does crank over but doesn't start and run, verify that the sparkplugs are firing then check the fuse for the fuel pump.

If the engine does not crank over, the problem is either the battery, starter solenoid, or electrical circuit between the solenoid and the ignition switch.

the engine spins over but does not crank i checked the spark plugs they are getting fire fuel pump is running so i dont know injectors maybe not firing ? or coil stops firing after first crank over? not sure. stick rag in gas tank and light it on fire and watch it burn to the ground. really thinking on a chevy 350 swap tired of this japan junk

Check the cold start injector by removing it and holding it over an empty container while someone cranks the starter. There should be an initial spray of gas from the injector. If not, verify that the electrical connection is good and if it is good, replace the injector. Unless the cold start injector provides that initial spray when the engine is cold, you can crank the starter all day and the engine probably won't start.

before you had this problem, were you doing anything else to the truck? Or did it just not start one day? Had not read anything on if you were doing work on it or just tried to start it to go to someplace.

"the engine spins over but does not crank..."

Does that mean it turns over but doesn't sputter or start? Just trying to clarify some things. I'm getting confused reading your posts since it seems that all the punctuation keys on your computer are busted.

It doesn't sputter or start. I got in the truck to go some where and it wouldn't start. The line to the cold start injector was clogged up , cleaned in out still doesn't start. I dont think the cold start injector works. It has allways been cold natured but know it just wont crank. I think the coil isn't putting up enough to ignite the fuel.

roadsterred said:

Check the cold start injector by removing it and holding it over an empty container while someone cranks the starter. There should be an initial spray of gas from the injector. If not, verify that the electrical connection is good and if it is good, replace the injector. Unless the cold start injector provides that initial spray when the engine is cold, you can crank the starter all day and the engine probably won't start.

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My engine takes a many cranks to start from cold engine but once engine is warmed up it start almost quick (2 seconds instead of 5 or so) could that be cold start injector being clogged or faulty?.Thanks.

89camotoy said:

It doesn't sputter or start. I got in the truck to go some where and it wouldn't start. The line to the cold start injector was clogged up , cleaned in out still doesn't start. I dont think the cold start injector works. It has allways been cold natured but know it just wont crank. I think the coil isn't putting up enough to ignite the fuel.

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How did you clean the cold start injector fuel line?,explain it to me in detail because I might have a similar problem.Thanks.

Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

I removed the line from the intake,then took a wire that was flexible but stiff enough to push through anything that was in the line.

89camotoy said:

I removed the line from the intake,then took a wire that was flexible but stiff enough to push through anything that was in the line.

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The fuel line from the cold start injector? if so do i need to replace an O-ring seal or gasket? if not this fuel line where is it physically located?.Thanks.


Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

drifter28 said:

Probably the ignitors,the are located in the distributer, can't place them exactly,but a manual with automotive information will show you where they are.,thats where I would look first,if I remember right it was a fairly common problem,or check with dealer if that vehicle has a crankshaft sensor, on some vehicle, when this sensor goes bad, the car will not start, because, no spark is being send out, good luck

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if it was the igniter.. he wouldn't be getting spark at all..

pull your codes, tell us what you have, i've got a similar sounding gremlin, and i'm geting a no rpm code. i think its a 12, possibly a 14

Sidney said:

The fuel line from the cold start injector? if so do i need to replace an O-ring seal or gasket? if not this fuel line where is it physically located?.Thanks.


Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

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The line is located on the left side of the intake if u r looking at the engine. middle of the intake, its a short metal line with banjo style fittings on it. has copper washers on it.

Could be the fuel injectors are gummed up and need to cleaned. Running with the higher octane makes it ignite (run) better but it's still not going to be as good as if it had clean injectors. It happens in my friends car (Acura CL 1998) I don't know if this really work because he almost buy the parts like the Acura CL cold air intake which is useless for the damage. Try some injector cleaner, the kind you mix with a tank of gas should work fine but it could take several tank fulls with the cleaner in it to really clean them up.