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I am trying to change the timing belt on our 2003 Highlander V6 and almost immediately got stuck while trying to take the crank bolt off. I bought a pulley holding tool and second 18" breaker bar to use with it, but it won't budge. I was even laying on the ground with my feet on one bar and pulling on the other (like doing a deadlift at the gym). I am hesitant to use the method where I wedge the breaker bar and bump the engine, but think I may have to. So with that, I have two questions:

1) What is the easiest way to ensure the engine doesn't start when I bump the starter?

2) Would putting anti-seize compound on the thread and flange when reinstalling be advisable or even work?

Thanks for all the advice you have given me in the past and hopefully for this one as well!
Here you go, mate: Lisle Harmonic Balancer Socket ( Google Lislecorp.com) Mine is 19mm - bought it online to use on my daughter's Odyssey. Lifesaver! Weighs about 2 lbs. Popped it on my impact gun, and with one hand and three fingers, the pulley bolt was off in a couple of seconds. On the rebound, I marked the nut and pulley for the "90 degrees after 40 lbs./ft." tightening procedure and the same socket had the nut properly tight after about 3 quick hits on the impact gun, checking each time for proper position. The YouTube video for the Odyssey showed a guy used a breaker bar, an 8-foot pipe, and lots of grunt. One genius commenter a page or two down in the comments section mentioned the Lisle socket. Bless his heart! Check it out. You won't be sorry.
 

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08 Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE R9K Tuned
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Here you go, mate: Lisle Harmonic Balancer Socket ( Google Lislecorp.com) Mine is 19mm - bought it online to use on my daughter's Odyssey. Lifesaver! Weighs about 2 lbs. Popped it on my impact gun, and with one hand and three fingers, the pulley bolt was off in a couple of seconds. On the rebound, I marked the nut and pulley for the "90 degrees after 40 lbs./ft." tightening procedure and the same socket had the nut properly tight after about 3 quick hits on the impact gun, checking each time for proper position. The YouTube video for the Odyssey showed a guy used a breaker bar, an 8-foot pipe, and lots of grunt. One genius commenter a page or two down in the comments section mentioned the Lisle socket. Bless his heart! Check it out. You won't be sorry.
It looks nice though having a proper impact socket set will do fine.
 

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I had the same problem after disassembling everything, without getting into what didn't work I found a friendly repair shop and he had a battery powered impact wrench that worked...he said it is more powerful than his pneumatic.

I believe there was recall on my 05 hl that was for a loose crankshaft bolt and that's how it may have gotten so tight.
 

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Let it be known that electric impact wrenches are lame and offer less torque than a breaker bar with a little power behind it. I wouldn't recommend heating that bolt, isn't there rubber in the crankshaft pully (harmonic balancer and oil seal) and I bet the crankshaft is heat treated? Also, I wouldn't worry about breaking that bolt with lubrication or anything else, it's pretty beefy and you couldn't break it if you tried. I don't even torque mine, just lube it up and crank it as tight as I can get it with my bar. No problems.
 

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I am trying to change the timing belt on our 2003 Highlander V6 and almost immediately got stuck while trying to take the crank bolt off. I bought a pulley holding tool and second 18" breaker bar to use with it, but it won't budge. I was even laying on the ground with my feet on one bar and pulling on the other (like doing a deadlift at the gym). I am hesitant to use the method where I wedge the breaker bar and bump the engine, but think I may have to. So with that, I have two questions:

1) What is the easiest way to ensure the engine doesn't start when I bump the starter?

2) Would putting anti-seize compound on the thread and flange when reinstalling be advisable or even work?

Thanks for all the advice you have given me in the past and hopefully for this one as well!
There are a few ways to make sure the engine doesn't start. On my 2000 Camry I am able to easily disconnect the crankshaft position sensor just under the alternator. With it disconnected the starter turns but it won't start. Another way is to disconnect the coils; just make sure that you wrap any conducting terminals with plastic wrap or similar before cranking. A third way is to disconnect the wires to the spark plugs. If you don't have wires (ie coil over spark plugs) then disconnect whatever is connected to the plugs.
I don't know if putting anti seize on the bolt would be a good idea or not as you don't want it to come loose inadvertently but I would put some where the harmonic balancer comes in contact with the shaft and on the back so that it's easier to pull off next time
 

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I use a 1/2 inch drive breaker with a 2 foot cheater bar. Haven't found much that can resist it. Even with red loctite. Looking at doing my timing belt stuff and the power steering pump soon. It's winter, our best season, in Tucson.
 

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There are a few ways to make sure the engine doesn't start. On my 2000 Camry I am able to easily disconnect the crankshaft position sensor just under the alternator. With it disconnected the starter turns but it won't start. Another way is to disconnect the coils; just make sure that you wrap any conducting terminals with plastic wrap or similar before cranking. A third way is to disconnect the wires to the spark plugs. If you don't have wires (ie coil over spark plugs) then disconnect whatever is connected to the plugs.
I don't know if putting anti seize on the bolt would be a good idea or not as you don't want it to come loose inadvertently but I would put some where the harmonic balancer comes in contact with the shaft and on the back so that it's easier to pull off next time
One should always use a torque wrench and torque it to factory spec. Blue loctite would be sufficient. Replacing the bolt isn't a bad idea, but I'm not sure it's necessary.

I have an air impact. Quite an investment for the shade tree mechanic, but makes things a lot quicker. It's an Earthquake from Harbor Freight. And I use a quick jack to get the car off the ground--really a big investment, but makes anything I do on the car so much easier and fun.
 

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The comment by Indy John regarding the extra-sized Lisle 19mm Impact Socket makes perfect sense. His comment should be viewed with great interest by those of us doing our own TB/water pump. Indy John knows what he is talking about.
I watched the videos in the Reviews section on Amazon. There is one guy that demonstrates the ineffectiveness of a standard impact socket then goes on to show how the Lisle socket zips the crank bolt out in about 2 seconds. The extra mass of the socket is the secret. At $22 it is a must-have for us DIY'ers. I'm getting one. Bravo Indy John.
Haya....

Edit: BTW- I demonstrated this for myself the other day after I read what Indy John said. The lug bolts on my Audi and VW are sometimes difficult to back out with my electric impact. I have several different sockets I bought for these bolts (Audi's and VW's have lug bolts not lug nuts.) They are 17mm, kinda odd size. Anyway the impact gun will not back these out (previously torqued to 90 lb-ft) with a standard socket so I had been using a 16-inch bar first to break them loose. The other day I dug out the 17mm impact socket and guess what.... they come right out. No need for a breaker bar. Ya learn something every day, Huh.
Haya....
Oh....The reason I had not been using the impact socket before is that it is thicker and if not squared up to the bolt head perfectly would rub the lug well and scrape the finish off the nice alloy wheels.
 

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OTC 4754 universal pulley tool worked great for me. There is a review on amazon with pictures describing how to do it on a 2006 highlander. Yes it was a nightmare to remove. But with this tool and long extensions and a pipe it loosened up.


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