I haven't taken a piccie (yet) but I have discovered the door frame inner [upper/glass], where it meets/welded/conjoin to the inner/outer door skins... you can see it is a mig welded joint rather than machine spots... has rusted through. It is like lacework with several pinholes.
The door has a full seal on the exterior - filling the door gap - but it has a split where two separate mouldings are joined, on the bend.
I'm wondering if there has been a little 'pressure point', when driving along, and water has pooled there causing this specific..localised rust??
Does anyone recall seeing a door with rust holes at this point??
I will give some thought to methods of putting it right... :|
My 'reverse warning sensor' kit has arrived :grin:
Nice little hole-saw provided... to cut through the plastic bumper, at the correct dia.
We will see how this works out.
I'm going to connect it all together, running a 12V lead from the ciggy socket as temporary power, and tape the sensors to the bumper... and walk around with a piece of wood board = just to ensure it isn't a duffer :nerd:
No one drives this car but me... therefore, I have little opportunity to use any of the other doors/doorhandles. So when I grabbed the front passenger doorhandle, to open it for something or other, it WOBBLED in & out
. Deffo needed fixing...!!
Yesterday was an 'off shift' and the rain wasn't due till 5
Got the car round the back and started on the door strippage....
* googling got the lowdown on how to get the armrest & switchplate off.
... I was fairly certain someone had been in before ...
Sure enough... the captive nuts (with fixing hex bolt tightened in) were revolving in the plastic handle.. so no more tightenees
Using determination/brute force & ignorance I managed to get the 'captive nut' to break out of the handle. I removed the handle after unclipping the rods - total quality fittings and a delight to work on!!
I spot drilled through the void [where the captive nut had been] a small pilot hole... opened this up to take the countersunk bolts I had in hand/Csunk the plastic on the handle outside (covered by the finger pull handle) to allow the bolts to lie flush.
This is the little bu99er which caused all the hassle.....
... a great deal of satisfaction gleaned to feel the handle as it should be... :smile:
a *spot of Black on the heads & dunnz dunn
OOps = * paint will wait... started to rain....
Earlier, I did a bit of shopping at my local Car Acc Shop...
This lot is for my rear sill ends/arch bottom.The aerosol is to blow preserver wax inside the sill box.
During 2014 she did 3739 miles/15 did 3187/ and this 16 did 6342 [1345 in my ownership].... hardly taxi work
I wish to announce the NEW Carina ll, 25 Years Young & reborn.....
GONE is the wallowy, disconcerting heave and floppiness and rear shuffle.....
ENJOY an almost serene 'waft', with the tyres being pummelled by the force of the struts + the comforting 'bonggle/thwump' of a taut chassis being deflected by our totally $hite roads.....
I AM now getting exactly what 'the Son of the Rising Sun' was licking his sliderule for..........
Oh JOY, Oh Fountainhead of motoring yumminess......... enough, already...:wink:
Got the car back yesteday.... two rear rubber brake pipes needed replaced when the rear struts were removed + the rear strut shrouds had to be renewed
Full service and MOT 350UKpound (I supplied 230UKp of parts)
Having, as I do, a PRESS button in the drivers door control pad - to lock/unlock the doors - Has anyone cut into the loom to install a remote 'PLIPPER' >> enabling us to PLIP lock/unlock the doors..... without the key??
Kits are quite universal, on Ebay >> but as ever - execution is never straightforward
My 'loom adapter' arrived the other day.... OF COURSE >> I CUT THE ENDS OFF
I have just to solder the tails from the AIWA radio....
Soldering didn't go too well.....
The tips all silvered but I could not get them to fuse to each other... Very Odd
Trusty 'Choccy blok' connectors to the rescue... Weyy aye!!
4 screws and fascia off... 4 screws in bracket supports HU [removed]... Toyyo HU is 'inside' the DIN Hole >> AIWA has a collar so is 'outside'/slid through the DIN Hole.
Holes in Toyyo bracket lined up, at the rear, so all is tight as a drum in there
*all sorted...
Fed the +12v/Earth tails through the dash and they are coiled loosely, just down by the clutch pedal.
This is the supply for the PlipLock controller.
Absolutely Steaminn... 'buried the needle'... Rockkinnonn YaY
Better than crimp connectors if you ask me. Maybe the solder you have is no good I have a reel that can't solder anything worth a damn the stuff melts like plastic.
..... Yes, even humble Toyotas must visit to 'sip'!
Just embarasses the other 'white good/shopper trollies' with their 'auto stop-start' and 'EGR' and... well that plethora of totally useless cr*p fitted, to keep the modern motorist poor >
You have a very nice car man. My Canadian eyes love its European style but my Canadian brain can't tell whether it's looking at a Camry or a Corolla. Who cares? It's an old Toyota and it's beautiful :loove:
My power slide/tilt is going great guns. However, when I rock back the switch for 'drop tilt' and the motor pulls the 'sledge' [thinggie??] along to drop the glass >> instead of going 'Flumpp' Closed what is happening is it goes 'CluDunkk'... :frown:
My mind sees this as the glass 'slab' is perhaps a small smidginn out of alignment (with the rear of the hole) and thus 'drops >> whacks the back edge >> slamdown!'.
There must be a relationship between the 'pivot point' [for glass tilt-pin radius] and where 'pivot sledge' [carrying tilt-pin/fixed to motor cable] starts & stops.... Adjusted originally at the factory??
Is there a 'How To' on the forum.... :nerd:
Cheers
*Does this apply to a 1991 Carina (or Corolla...) :dunno:
Thanks to all that posted! I followed the instructions from the other thread and it works correctly now.
1. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).
2. To normalize the moon roof, push and hold the moon roof switch on the “TILT UP” side until the roof fully tilts up.
3. Then release the switch.
4. Push and hold the switch on the “TILT UP” side until the moon roof tilts up, tilts down, slides open and then closes automatically.
NOTE: On the second "Push and hold the switch on the "Tilt UP" side" it took about 10-20 seconds before the intialization procedure started (tilt down, open, close)