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Brit, in Bitz!
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
UK Carina II (1991) sal. 5sp

Hi everyone. :grin:

It would appear my car is a Corona, 1.6 carb 5sp... Going by the piccies on here.

Bought it Aug1st, 350ukpounds£, 80k miles and I have racked up near 1100 miles since @ 41 ukMPG.. I like frugal !!

I will make a more detailed update from my desktop, later.

Nonetheless... the Savvy has landed :nerd:


2sav
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
as I said.... some piccies :wink:
my car is very clean


... and the subchassis is very clean...


As soon as I got into the car I noticed the sunvisors were crappy, wouldn't move easily and creaked horribly..

A quick trip to my local breakers got me two, fresh from a GM Corsa.




Mine is a carb engine, last gen before EFi


we set off on a short vacation a few days after getting the car...No Pressure!! 80,000 came & went... no problem :smile:


currently stock, on factory 13" steel rims, I sorted out some OZ 5spoke alloys, for not a £lot & good tyres on them.

4x100*pcd, 7x15 ET37

*5x100 wheels (Camry size brakes) are fitted to the 2litre models :wink:

keep looking in for updates....

2sav
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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8,257 Posts
4-lug hubs, a-series motor... it is probably more comparable to a US Corolla 90-94 generation.

-Charlie
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Now then... here's an interesting thing NOT!



I haven't taken a piccie (yet) but I have discovered the door frame inner [upper/glass], where it meets/welded/conjoin to the inner/outer door skins... you can see it is a mig welded joint rather than machine spots... has rusted through. It is like lacework with several pinholes.

The door has a full seal on the exterior - filling the door gap - but it has a split where two separate mouldings are joined, on the bend.
I'm wondering if there has been a little 'pressure point', when driving along, and water has pooled there causing this specific..localised rust??

Does anyone recall seeing a door with rust holes at this point??


I will give some thought to methods of putting it right... :|

2sav
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
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8,257 Posts
Compare to USDM Corolla:



It would be better to ask in that section of the forum...

-Charlie
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I am very aware of HOW LOW.... the roofline is on my car, relative to any selection in a car park.

To improve braking visibility I'm fitting this....




As much warning as possible... always a good investment :nerd:

2sav
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
Joined
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
My 'reverse warning sensor' kit has arrived :grin:



Nice little hole-saw provided... to cut through the plastic bumper, at the correct dia.

We will see how this works out.

I'm going to connect it all together, running a 12V lead from the ciggy socket as temporary power, and tape the sensors to the bumper... and walk around with a piece of wood board = just to ensure it isn't a duffer :nerd:

2sav
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
No one drives this car but me... therefore, I have little opportunity to use any of the other doors/doorhandles.
So when I grabbed the front passenger doorhandle, to open it for something or other, it WOBBLED in & out
.

Deffo needed fixing...!!

Yesterday was an 'off shift' and the rain wasn't due till 5




Got the car round the back and started on the door strippage....




* googling got the lowdown on how to get the armrest & switchplate off.



... I was fairly certain someone had been in before ...



Sure enough... the captive nuts (with fixing hex bolt tightened in) were revolving in the plastic handle.. so no more tightenees

Using determination/brute force & ignorance I managed to get the 'captive nut' to break out of the handle. I removed the handle after unclipping the rods - total quality fittings and a delight to work on!!

I spot drilled through the void [where the captive nut had been] a small pilot hole... opened this up to take the countersunk bolts I had in hand/Csunk the plastic on the handle outside (covered by the finger pull handle) to allow the bolts to lie flush.



This is the little bu99er which caused all the hassle.....



... a great deal of satisfaction gleaned to feel the handle as it should be... :smile:



a *spot of Black on the heads & dunnz dunn
OOps =
* paint will wait... started to rain....






Earlier, I did a bit of shopping at my local Car Acc Shop...

This lot is for my rear sill ends/arch bottom.The aerosol is to blow preserver wax inside the sill box.



2sav
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
Joined
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
WELL....!!


..... where to begin


OK then... THE END!!



During 2014 she did 3739 miles/15 did 3187/ and this 16 did 6342 [1345 in my ownership].... hardly taxi work



I wish to announce the NEW Carina ll, 25 Years Young & reborn.....

GONE is the wallowy, disconcerting heave and floppiness and rear shuffle.....

ENJOY an almost serene 'waft', with the tyres being pummelled by the force of the struts + the comforting 'bonggle/thwump' of a taut chassis being deflected by our totally $hite roads.....

I AM now getting exactly what 'the Son of the Rising Sun' was licking his sliderule for..........

Oh JOY, Oh Fountainhead of motoring yumminess......... enough, already...:wink:




Got the car back yesteday.... two rear rubber brake pipes needed replaced when the rear struts were removed + the rear strut shrouds had to be renewed



Full service and MOT 350UKpound (I supplied 230UKp of parts)

2sav
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
Joined
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Plipper >> Door locking Modification.

Having, as I do, a PRESS button in the drivers door control pad - to lock/unlock the doors - Has anyone cut into the loom to install a remote 'PLIPPER' >> enabling us to PLIP lock/unlock the doors..... without the key??
Kits are quite universal, on Ebay >> but as ever - execution is never straightforward


2sav
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
10 Quid of anyones* money....

I see, from looking under the bonnet, an alarm has been installed...... Dead as a Kipper tho!


..... notwithstanding ....


I really miss the 'plip' lock on my previous car, Proton Savvy.




https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L6EFE3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Wiring seems fairly straightforward, mind :surprise:




Blue/White = triggers doors 'LOCK'

Blue/Yellow = triggers doors 'UNLOCK'


.... job for first fine/warmish/light day, methinkks :nerd:



2sav
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
Joined
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
HU swappage... Thumbstick option!

I bought an adapter from Amazon...



My 'loom adapter' arrived the other day.... OF COURSE >> I CUT THE ENDS OFF


I have just to solder the tails from the AIWA radio....



Soldering didn't go too well.....

The tips all silvered but I could not get them to fuse to each other... Very Odd

Trusty 'Choccy blok' connectors to the rescue... Weyy aye!!

4 screws and fascia off... 4 screws in bracket supports HU [removed]... Toyyo HU is 'inside' the DIN Hole >> AIWA has a collar so is 'outside'/slid through the DIN Hole.
Holes in Toyyo bracket lined up, at the rear, so all is tight as a drum in there




*all sorted...



Fed the +12v/Earth tails through the dash and they are coiled loosely, just down by the clutch pedal.
This is the supply for the PlipLock controller.

Absolutely Steaminn... 'buried the needle'... Rockkinnonn YaY


2sav
 

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Toyota Collector
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11,835 Posts
Trusty 'Choccy blok' connectors to the rescue... Weyy aye!!
Better than crimp connectors if you ask me. Maybe the solder you have is no good I have a reel that can't solder anything worth a damn the stuff melts like plastic.
 

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Brit, in Bitz!
Joined
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211 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Agreed.... the solder is 'old skool' tin/lead stuff.

Never mind... positive/mech crush&grip will see the car [&ME] out..... :smile:

Good Vibrations never felt So Good... lol


2sav
 
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