I have inner void wax treatment (several spraycans) and have done the inner/rear sill + lower arch "achilles heel" but want to do the floor/sill edges and all the pipes/fuel filler and suspension ironmongery :nerd:
I have had a good think about my 'auto choke' and the rats nest of vac tubing that goes with it....
I have had years of manual choke type cars and I'm suspicious of the Auto mech - is it completely opening everytime? The car sometimes runs like a total pig - fluffing, stuttering and stalls at junctions... Quick restart and runs great = Suspicious!
I'm replacing the T-handle pull with a button type knob.
I will slice the threaded foot off and araldite 30mm Button onto T stub end :smile:
Plenty of pictures when I do the install. I have ordered 10x 3mm rubber caps, to blank off any vac ports.
Yesterday I popped the trim off above the pedals, looking to pick up on the wiring to install my 'plip locking' kit. The loom is very densly wrapped as it exits the door boot, into footwell.... I couldn't see any way of picking out the 'locking wiring' easily.
Plan B :
I think I'm going to run 2 wires up into the actual rocker switch base >> these will take the signals down, through the door jamb boot, and then into the control box.
Bit of a faff BUT no loom chopping!
Do it all another day.... Bloominn freezing here, this time of year!
One of my sidelights went off - 5W T10 - luckily I found one in an old Ring bulb kit, from the bottom of my spares box. I had to twist the holder with an OE spanner, inserted behind the headlight void.. Horizontally.. as the space is bare big enough for a childs hand.
All sorted now :nerd:
Anyone had long test of LED T10 type bulbs (NO..not jazzy BLUE ones)?
This style T10 I use for the cluster and several other locations have not had one die yet. They come is most colours. https://www.ebay.com/itm/392026178373
When getting the centre link pipe replaced (big success) we spotted a leak on the front pipe/manifold joint. The shop has replaced this pipe 3 times due to Warranty faults (not down to their work). The fitter last told me "these fine thread Toyota studs can easily strip" and [presumably] didn't heave them up tight.... So now they are blown.
The shop manager is ordering 3 new studs + nuts and will extract the old ones (gastorch ftw) and refit it all for me.
The lads at the ATS depot are really great and always like to have some 'older iron' on the lift.
Hi all,
i'm having a problem with the charging(idiot) light coming on at times and cant seem to find out why. I've done quite a bit of trouble shooting, heres a few:
replaced the alternator with this one :More Information for REMY 14153
wires in plug going into Alt. was corroded but since...
Does sixth generation corona have same sizes on rear and front bumper? I've seen a person selling a chrome front and rear bumper corona and i'm willing to buy it and put it in my corona liftback 1980 also.
Hi everyone,
I have a CORONA 1986 Sedan (Model L-KT147V-TXKDS).
The issue is when I tried to take the car out for a drive the clutch gave in. Meaning the clutch just went to the floor without any resistance. Following are the observations,
1. No external oil leaks observed in the Master or...
On the outside it looks, let's say good if not exactly fine. Has all the glass, a tranny that, believe it or not, still has the synchros, a rebuilt master cylinder for the brakes, the windows roll up and down and it has plenty of room for a motor, seeing as how it has none.
Hey Yall! I was seeing if anyone here had any accessory parts for a 78 Corona Station wagon? I have an all original in Virginia, USA, that I am working on.
