I considered the fuel filter...until I discovered that there's no traditional inline filter. There's only a built-in filter component to the fuel pump assembly which is considered a "lifetime" filter (yeah right), and it's unavailable from the big box stores locally. Can order it for $24 +shipping from RockAuto, but to be honest I really don't think that's the problem. In all my years I've never seen a filter "give and take" the way this vehicle is acting...I've only seen them clog up and either somewhat restrict fuel flow, or worst case scenario, block fuel flow. Doesn't mean it isn't the problem, in fact I'm probably going to end up ordering it and replacing it, because 20 years is long enough for one filter's "life" in my opinion.Fuel filter? Do you have the tools to test fuel pressure, that's where I'd start.
Yes replace the filter assembly/redo with the new pump u have. Check injectors.but also check coils. I've had a similar loss of power issue cuts in and out and it was a coil going out. Eventually a code came up too to confirm. It also happened to me in turns or a sluggishnes to a boom re-engage even tho i kept the pedal constant throughout (and took turn faster than usual, but you get the idea.).
So, fuel filter sock, and lower filter assembly (since u replaced the pump anyway, might as well do the rest). Then look at the coils and injectors. I would have gone with a denso unit. I don't know if you can truelly trust its reliaility and fuel flow, if u can, I would return it and get a denso unit. The sock and bottom half filter assembly brand doesn't matter.Be careful with the plastic tabs holding the upper and lower half together.
Just my $0.02.
*Maybe check via ODBII Throttle Position Sensor % Ranges if it looks ok while U press the gas while key on but car not running. i.e. no dead spots through the range.
Unfortunately, no, I don't. I'm sadly low-tech & wouldn't know how to use one if I had one. Any thoughts on which sensor it could be? I do have a factory service manual and a basic multimeter, maybe I'd get lucky & be able to test it that way.Do you have a scan tool to look at the ecu data?
It may be a sensor issue!
Gotcha. Thanks, I'll add it to the list. I have a lot of homework to do tomorrow, appreciate the help!Well, in that case, start with this little guy, the MAF, Mass Air Flow sensor, see if yours is within spec:
If that is out of spec. it can cause funny reactions from the engine, like stumbling, hesistation!
Sorry for the confusion.Are you saying you have a high idle after you replaced the MAF? Where is it idling at? Double check the MAF, make sure it is sealing properly again the housing!
Yes, that's it exactly. But come to a stop and it almost immediately clears up. For the first, say, 5 seconds after coming to a stop, it's still hard to rev up...but once it's physically stopped for more than that...magically clears up and will rev up smoothly again.Do you mean the car is not rolling along very well even if you push the clutch in and trans in neutral?