[Smileshighly]

Hello, I drive a 2003 Toyota Corolla CE and I recently upgraded my clutch to a stage 2, and swapped out my 1zz transmission for a 2zz of a Celica GTS. My next goal is probably the engine as the 2zz trans, I feel will cause issues with the 1zz engine, but for now I'm riding the 1zz engine to the ground and saving in for the time being. I'm looking into making my car ride smoother and take turns better. At the moment everything is more than likely stock other than the parts mentioned above.
So far I've changed my trans from a 5 to a 6 speed trans just to make the car a little more fun and scare the Honda kids. I've added a K&N stock/box air engine filter, a EFT Stage 2 Clutch, I'm currently building a cold air intake and found me a decent looking heat shield along with a heat reflector for the engine hood, but I'm not entirely sold on the idea that a CAI or short ram will add Ponies vs the stock AI. I'm looking into anti roll kits to upgrade the stock ones and a strut bar for the engine bay, specifically this one, https://www.amazon.com/DC-Sports-CS...8-1828-1-1---&vehicleName=2003+Toyota+Corolla
Like I've said before, I'm not trying to win races with this thing but I do wanna be different from everything else on the road. So bare with me when I ask for help in modding a Corolla for performance, thank you. Recommendations for parts and ideas are very welcomed, thanks again!

Edit: TIRES! I NEED TIRES! I bought some cheap off brand last time because the car needed them bad, but now they're nearing their deaths and I'm looking into Kumho, Firestone, Goodyear, and this brand I found called Toyota Proxes??? Honestly aiming at an inch or two taller than the stock rims. Ideas?

 

[WayLowTech]

You may really want a CAI or at the very least remove the intake duct that goes from the front of the car to the filter box which is what I did. It has a stupid huge restriction that you can plainly see in these images. Both the 1zz and the 2zz have this same intake duct. People will cry about not getting cold air but without that restriction you'll be much better than you were with it. Removing it is free and I think you'll like how it sounds.

 

[Esso]

1) Energy Suspension control arm bushings and motor mount inserts.

2) Motor mount condition is key in getting power down easy. Since you have the 6speed you can use Innovative polyurethane passenger and driver side mounts from a lotus with 2zz but you will have to modify the passenger mount a little bit (bend it) to mount to the 3rd side bolt under the power steering res. Other two bolts fit OE.

3) Yes, strut brace and all Suspension bits. Ultra Racing brand is king in this department and chassis. I have a spare DC strut tower brace and Progress rear sway bar if you are local. SoCal.

4) Coilovers

5) Cold Air Intake and headers

6) XRS rear disc brake swap


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[gamer765]

@Esso, how difficult is it to install Energy Suspension control arm bushings? I bought a set and it should be arriving next week. I have a caster alignment issue and when I looked at the bushing, the metal side disc is like halfway out of the control arm bushing socket.

 

[75aces]

Use a shop that can press it out for you. They should be able to press the new one too. Will be easier than fighting it.

 

[Esso]

Oh wow. Yeah the metal sleeve for the bushing is lifting off. That will for sure change your alignment.
It is easy to install but the key is to have a torch. I used a MAPP torch which I borrowed the torch tool from a friend. You heat up the center through pin and it will slide right out clean. Then heat the sleeve in the picture and the rest of the rubber will literally slide off, if not just keep burning it and it will vaporize. Installing: I used wood blocks and a large C clamp from Home Depot. It’s tricky to squeeze them in but it’s doable. I now have a shop press for bushing replacements if I were to do it again.
Just important notes is that you will be reusing the metal sleeve and center metal pin. Since the sleeve is out of its seat you might have to press it back in. The metal sleeve on the top should stick out maybe 1/8inch. I’ll take pics when I get home for a quick inspection. Also check the condition of it too just Incase if it is salvageable.
When you take the control arm out it’s nice to have a pry bar. Putting it in will be easier with the pry bar as well.


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[John Anthony]

I recently replaced the driver side control arm bushings (both bushings). I think the "donut" bushing is supposed to stick out like that. My donut bushing on both the driver side and the passenger side (which didn't need replacing) stuck out like in your photo. I removed and installed the bushings myself, and I installed them in the same position like that. It was a real pain without a shop press. I "free-rented" three different tool sets in order to drive out and reinstall the bushings. Had to improvise a bit, but was successful. After going through all that I decided next time I'll just get a new control arm which comes with bushings already installed (or a "cheap" shop press, but I don't really have room for one). You're using specialty bushings, though, so I don't know if you can get them with a new arm. I just used standard Moog replacement bushings. I took it in for an alignment and it was still within specs. They said my control arm job looked fine.

Here below is a thread I posted recently. It has a photo and a couple of short videos I made. You can see the bushing sticking out like that, which I am thinking is supposed to be that way.

How To Diagnose This Wheel Jiggle? - 6 second video

Hey Guys! (do I sound like ChrisFix?) Anyway, I just got my Corolla back from my daughter who was driving it for 6 months while I fixed her wrecked (now better) 2006 Honda CR-V. I noticed vibration at around 50-60 MPH, so decided to get the wheels balanced at Costco where I got new Michelin...

www.toyotanation.com

 

[gamer765]

Not sure what else would cause this. Wheel hits the fender liner on turns.

 

[Esso]

The front or back side of the fender liner? Mines was because the liner clips went missing. So my liners are toast. You try to max out the wheels both sides to check if it hits the liner?


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[gamer765]

Hit the back. Liner is fine, just the wheel is off center and more biased towards the back. Driver side is centered fine. I don't even have to max turn to the right for the wheel to start rubbing on the liner. So I was thinking it might be the bushing causing the wheel to have a caster towards the rear. Also most likely the cause for haptic feedback during 60+ mph highway driving.

 

[WayLowTech]

Not sure what else would cause this. Wheel hits the fender liner on turns. View attachment 314472

I think there may be other issues there too. Look at the hood and door gaps. Door gap gets narrower lower down.

 

[Esso]

Hit the back. Liner is fine, just the wheel is off center and more biased towards the back. Driver side is centered fine. I don't even have to max turn to the right for the wheel to start rubbing on the liner. So I was thinking it might be the bushing causing the wheel to have a caster towards the rear. Also most likely the cause for haptic feedback during 60+ mph highway driving.

Bro you have no idea how much it’s going to change your car. It’s a reason why I tell people to get the polyurethane. It’s likely going to fix that bad caster. And your average top speed stability will be a world of a difference. Number one upgrade in my book. Let me get those pics in. Was busy on another car last night. Not much sunlight to play with after the whole time change.

Edit: those pics

The vertical bush is maybe 3/8 sticking up. Which is weird cause your other one is sunken down more?


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[75aces]

Any vibrations with the poly bushings? Been curious of this upgrade for years. Though, I never had the opportunity to put these in. Haven't had to.

 

[Esso]

No extra vibrations. It only really pivots and holds the wheel. I’d say motor mount inserts gave the move vibrations in the cabin. It’s a great upgrade. The first feeling I got was when you gas it the power translates really smoothly. Initial torque is notchy which is a crazy sensation compared to standard rubbers. You won’t feel the flex in rubber bushings anymore on acceleration. It goes to the ground real quick especially paired with the motor mount inserts. More noticeable streeting with them around the city going low speeds.


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