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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mr. Haynes was no help! I get more help from TN for free. Your advice for $20 on replacing the rear engine mount on my son's 2000 V6 Camry Solara was: similar to 4 cyl (NOT) and engine mounting bracket is a casting that cradles the insulator.

Keywords: Rear Engine Motor Mount, Severe Engine Vibration in gear, Press rear engine motor mount Insitu (in place)

The rear engine mount is pressed into the same bracket that holds the carrier bearing for the passenger side CV drive shaft. The advice I found online was to remove the drive shaft and the bracket on the back of the engine. Using a PRESS, press out old mount and press new one into bracket.

Usually the carrier bearing is sized in place from heat and rust. Removing the bracket in the back of the motor can be a PITA. If you strip the bolts going into the engine...your nightmare begins. I was able to remove and press the new motor mount in place without having to remove the drive shaft or rear bracket. I found this easier than tearing everything out.

Tools Needed:

Air Chisel
Die Grinder
Qty 2: 6" C clamps (you will probably break one or both)
Qty 2: 1/4" steel plates ~ 4" x 6"
Torch with MAP Gas (Acetylene is even better)
floor jack
Piece of wood to protect oil pan
Hammer
1 or 2 ft bar (longer is better) I used a 3/4 drive breaker bar.
Lots of metric sockets and wrenches (1/2 drive minimum).

I broke both made in China C clamps : (but got it pressed in)


Bar for tapping:



You can get by without the air tools but it will take much much longer.
Steel plates need to be large enoungh to cover the ~ 4" diameter motor mount. The bar is to pound on the plate to drive in the mount into the casting.

Remove Pass side strut. Remove CV drive shaft from steering knuckle only!. It is better to loosen CV nut while car is still on the ground. I had the inner and outer tie rods out because I was also replacing them along with the struts. Place board on oil pan and support motor with floor jack. Remove the 4 nuts from the mount's bracket and the center bolt from the bracket. Remove motor mount bracket.

The new Rear Motor Mount looks like this:


The center fell out when I removed the center bolt. No wonder the car was vibrating like hell while in drive. The was no mount left at 200K miles. Use air chisle to cut out old motor mount. Here is what is left.



Use die grinder to clean up the opening inside in the engine bracket you just beat the hell out of.

My new motor mount was painted. I filed the paint off and tapered one side to help it fit into the casted engine bracket. Take as much metal off as you can but not too much or the motor mount will not fit snuggly in the engine bracket. If not enough metal is removed and it can get stuck while pressing in. If this happens use a torch and heat up the motor bracket. Use a thin film of axle grease on the motor mount to help it slide into the engine bracket while pressing.

Old motor mount removed:

C clamps and plates:


Tighten C clamp..tap tap...tighten c clamp.. tap tap..etc. This can take a long time..... depending on how much metal you shaved off the new mount and how many c clamps you have to break.


New motor mount pressed in place without removing CV drive shaft from transmission and engine bracket from the back of the engine. After it is pressed in place, re-install motor mount bracket to cross member and through bolt. You may need to lower/raise jack to get center bolt back in. I also put the four bolts through the cross member and loosely tighten the nuts prior to installating the center bolt.. After all 5 are in...tighten them up. Adjust jack as needed. finally remove the jack. Bracket not shown in pictures below.



I hope this procedure helps.
 

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2008 Saab 9-3
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Fixed most of your pics. You had some WEIRD Bb coding going on. :) One seems to have no uploaded to your hosting site though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I fixed the links to all the pictures. I found it easier to copy and paste link directly into the text without using the pic insert icon.
 

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Toy Nut
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Thanks ETCdude1 !!!!

This is exactly what I need to do on my car as well.

I was about to take the car into the dealer but maybe just maybe I can do this as well.
I do have a few questions.

1. Was your mount an OEM part? Why the need for filing down if it was an OEM part?

2. How many hours do you think it took?

3. Do you need any special tools to remove the strut and spring? I'm scared to mess with compressed springs as it can really do damage if handled improperly.

4. Is getting a torch necessary to do this job? How about a heat gun?

5. On a scale of 1-10, how difficult would you say this job is?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the DIY. It will help me immensily.



This is what mine looks like at the moment.


 

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wedge something sharp between the mount and mount bracket. keep hammering the sharp object all the way through, and use an air chisel and the old mount cylinder will just pop out.
my suggestion is to actually have the mount removed and pressed in. it only takes about 5 mins to be pressed in. or you can spend hours doing it yourself.

btw, goodjob OP.

Charley
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rear Motor Mount Replacement

OceanView,

I cheaped out by not buying a factory service manual. I threw $20 at Mr Haynes for one worthless sentence. I believe conventional way to replace the rear motor mount is to rip out the CV drive shaft and rear engine mount casting (bracket mounted to engine). With casting in hand the pressing in and out of the motor mount is easy with a Press. My CV drive shaft was siezed in and the engine bracket looked like a real PITA to get out + engine bracket bolts were beat to hell (not by me). Here are the answers to your questions.

1. Was your mount an OEM part? Why the need for filing down if it was an OEM part?

I bought the rear motor mount at rockauto. Anchor is a good name and I don't beleive it's the China made crap. Presses are rated in tons. C clamps probably a few hundred pounds. Removing some metal on the motor mount hopely will get you in the few hundred pound range.

2. How many hours do you think it took?

It took a 2-3 hours. Wheel off to wheel back on. I started to do it the conventioal way (remove CV drive shaft and casted engine mounted bracket) 1/2 hr spent with my son and friends beating on the carrier bearing area with a slide hammer with a special "C" attachment for removing drive shafts. (Yes.. retaining clip and carrier bearing rataining bolt were removed). It can purchased at autozone (special order) for $20 or rent it there for free. MAP gas was insufficent heat. Also, I did not want to ruin the CV drive shaft (yes I could have got it out, but it would have been beat to hell)...and spend more money to get a new one (or rebuilt one).

3. Do you need any special tools to remove the strut and spring? I'm scared to mess with compressed springs as it can really do damage if handled improperly.

Strut removal was easy. 3 bolts top and 2 bolts bottom + a 10mm bolt that holds the brake line and ABS sensor wire. You don't need to take the strut apart. Just remove it. You only need to be concerned about the spring launching the strut mount and taking your head off when you are taking the strut apart to rebuild it. The center nut in the top strut mount should not be removed since this is what is under spring tension.

Working on a car can be dangerous. Your strut question is a concern, since strut removal was rountine when I did the motor mount replacement. I recommend that this procedure on motor mount replacement be done only by experienced mechanics. I recommend everyone take their car to a local local garage to have the work done. This procedure shows how I replaced the motor mount insitu. This procedure may or may not help an experienced mechanic. All mechanics should be knowageable of and observe all safety procedures. Please, everyone be safe.............


4. Is getting a torch necessary to do this job? How about a heat gun?

A heat gun (~1500W) won't be hot enough. MAP gas is barely hot enough. Acetylene ideal.

5. On a scale of 1-10, how difficult would you say this job is?

With 1 being an oil change and 10 being a motor swap, I would give it a 5.

I work on cars (35 years) as a hobby and to save money. If you lived in PA you could pull your car in my garage and we could make the repairs safely. I work for free. Your lack of tools and your strut question is a concern. I was young once. I have been there....,but had a professional mechanic (Uncle) to guide me and keep me safe. Please, everyone put safety first.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Your post shows a good picture of the Rear Motor Mount bracket that is bolted into the frame's cross member and its center through bolt.. The whole area and back of engine should be degreased before a torch is used. When using a torch, a fire extinguisher should be close by.
 

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I've done this job on a 93 (3VZ) and also a 95 (1MZ). I opted for taking the mount out of the car. If I recall it was about 4 hours to do the job. I had to take the mount bracket to a machine shop to have the old mount pressed out and the new one pressed in (cost $35). Since I am used to this method, to me it looks more difficult to do this in the car. Pretty impressive that you found a way to do it in the car.
 

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Toy Nut
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Your post shows a good picture of the Rear Motor Mount bracket that is bolted into the frame's cross member and its center through bolt.. The whole area and back of engine should be degreased before a torch is used. When using a torch, a fire extinguisher should be close by.
Thanks for the info.
I'm undecided if I want to invest in the tools needed to do this job as it seems it may be beyond my skill level.
Will decide this week if I will pursue it or just take the car to the dealer.

Again, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A local mechanic should be able to do it at 1/2 the price of the dealership. If you show up with part in hand you can save more since the shops mark up the price of parts. Let them know you were going to do it but decided not to. If they give you crap about part in hand then find a better shop.

Harbor Freight is a good source to get tools. China stuff will probably last the weekend mechanic a long time, but last a prof mechanic a few months if that.
 

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a friends camry has a very leaky valve cover gasket making the rear engine mount very soak in engine oil....removing the rear engine mount was effortless....im guessing soaking the mount with wd40 or pb blaster for few days should have the same effect
 

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Does anyone have the torque specs for the rear mount bracket and bolt? Thanks.
 

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Torque Specs Rear Mount

Thanks ETCdude1 for posting this.

I just did my rear, front and wishbone bushing along the change of my right axle. 5 hours total. -minus the trip to Harbor Freight.

Camry V6 1997 manual torque specs:

Rear mount upper insulator bolt - 47 Ft-lbs
Rear mount bracket to engine - 47 Ft-lbs
Rear mount insulator to chassis nuts - 49 Ft-lbs

I've just taken out my mount housing with the bushing after removing the axle which is around 2 hours.

I always take before pictures and after pictures. Working on cars things get to be out of place including some memory. So it's good to have a habit of doing that, at least for me.

Removing the bushing was OK, this is how I did it. By using a reciprocal saw, not a press nor a wheel-bearing adapter (which fits the bushing mount rim and mount housing) from HB.

Nailed the mount housing to a board or something stable to stabilize the mount housing.
Used a chisel to chisel the rubber inside the bushing out so a that there's very minimal rubber to fit a reciprocal blade/saw through.
Sprayed some WD40 or penetrating lubricant from both sides and let it set.
Then used the saw to cut in towards the meatiest side of the mount housing, just in case you cut more than the bushing rim. <-IMPORTANT
After the rim of the bushing has been cut (width of the blade) that should give enough room to use a screw driver to evenly hammer the bushing rim out.

I froze the new bushing in the freezer for at least 12 hours this wall make it contract.
Greased up the mount housing where the new mount bushing will go in.
Position the new bushing correctly, remember that the hole is not in the middle of the bushing so you'll need to align it properly. This is to fit correctly with the mount brackets when installing it back on the chassis to line up with the engine. The hole has to align to the mount bracket so that bolts can go in. You do not want to torch the mount housing to press out the mount because it's not aligned. <- IMPORTANT
Hammer lightly the new bushing mount to the mount bracket. Evenly.


Then do everything in reverse to install it back into your engine. And you are done, good job and great work! Save that $300 per mount or $900 per axle and spend it on your next set of tools.



















 

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Don't cheap out on this repair by using anything but the OEM bushing insert. I tried a different brand that cost $30+/- and lasted exactly 1.5 years before totally falling apart. I then went and got the OEM insert online for $47, and went that route. Made in USA vs Taiwan. No brainier.
 

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EXCELLENT pictures on those!



I would go OEM on this as well due to the PITA of this.

Regarding the part, I am planning to just get the entire housing (bracket + mount). I'm just hoping the bolts holding the rear mount bracket are not seized. My 98 has a completely dead motor mounts since the engine moves a lot in gear (It wants to HOP out). Previous owner had the rear mount replaced back a few years ago and it is bad again. Most times used a cheap aftermarket one.

Also, does any body know the difference between these part numbers?

12380-20030 and the 12380-20040?

12380-20030
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lexus-ES300-Toyota-Avalon-Camry-Rear-Engine-Mount-Kit-Genuine-12380-0A031-/351072096155?hash=item51bd870f9b&vxp=mtr

12380-20040
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lexus-ES300-1998-2001-Engine-Mount-Genuine-12380-20040-/151304234110?hash=item233a6f647e&vxp=mtr

When I called my local toyota dealership, they said that the 20030 is the replacement but when I said if the 20040 would work, they said it was also listed as it would be a compatible as well....sooo does that mean the 20040 will work? the only thing I can see is that the rubber insert is much bigger. Wonder if that would be better for less vibrations or cause fillimate issues? I know the Avalon/Camry/ES300 share a lot of similarities.
 

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Thanks for the Excellent pics and torque specs.

I have to do this on the Avalon. For yours, I think its about the bracket fitting. The size difference might have to do with the bushing and its corresponding bracket. I got the other bushing in poly and it is definitely smaller than the current listed online. If you are able to verify that either bracket will mount and the hole location is an exact fit for axle, then the bigger one would be good. If not it would be a pain.

Based on the comment that both fit, what I did was order the oem style and then compare with poly so that I could return one of them. Unless I had the bracket and I went underneath to verify, it would have been a terrible oops with work in progress.

On the same note, I did take a look at another aftermarket one (DEA). There was rubber composition difference and its weight difference also as compared to OEM (has imprint NG = rubber type). Agree with oem only on this one (unless you are able to make use of the poly).

I got 12371-0A030 (mount bushing = insulator) instead of assembly 12380-0A040. Maybe I should have got the whole assembly. Maybe I will take a peek under the car and see if I should return it and get assembly looking at these pics. I was going to attempt in-situ. If not, assembly would save more time for $60 more since you would take out axle from housing and remove bracket from engine this route.

@jwalker911: question. Is there at least 6 in room on the other side of the mount housing? We see a pic from left side. I am asking about its behind.

Thanks ETCdude1 for posting this.

I just did my rear, front and wishbone bushing along the change of my right axle. 5 hours total. -minus the trip to Harbor Freight.

..

I've just taken out my mount housing with the bushing after removing the axle which is around 2 hours.
 

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Just the bushing alone is fine for this honestly. It is very doable if you have a press in your garage. I just pressed out the cheap one that failed and installed the Toyota OEM part. I used the new bushing to press the old one out, using a circle metal pressing disk to press the whole assy together, with a corresponding cup to catch the old bushing.

This is the exact kit I have, works very well for this job, as well as wheel bearings (duh haha)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19PC-Master-Set-Front-Wheel-Hub-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Install-Service-Tool-Set-/361354537503?hash=item542268aa1f&vxp=mtr

However, you need a press to use it, the threaded adapter is only strong enough to install a new part, not press out the old one. Presses are $150 at HF, and I never consider the cost of a new tool into a job like this, as I will use it again in the future!


It was not a big deal for me to get to this part as I am going it as part of a sub-frame drop, otherwise a block of wood is your friend to prop the engine out of the way.
 

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Thanks Timoboy. Cool. I was contemplating axle removal vs in-situ. I was going to get one of those. It comes so handy. Then I thought if I could do without messing with the axle, would be great. The avalon bushing is 4in. I got something to fit that size and wanted to press it out the other end.

Just the bushing alone is fine for this honestly. It is very doable if you have a press in your garage. I just pressed out the cheap one that failed and installed the Toyota OEM part. I used the new bushing to press the old one out, using a circle metal pressing disk to press the whole assy together, with a corresponding cup to catch the old bushing.
 

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Yeah, I personally would just remove the housing rather than do it in place. I live in California now along with my 1MZ Sienna and 1MZ 5-speed Camry, but they both originally came from places that inspire corrosion. I had no issue at all removing the axle, or removing the bolts that hold the housing on the block, so I would doubt you will either unless you have serious corrosion down there. Even so, a good heat up has saved nearly every bolt I have encountered with rust on these cars, combined with lots of ATF to lubricate.

Good chance you will have to do the inner CV boot anyway or will soon, look at it at a chance to do both.

I never attempted to do anything in place, but then again I have torn into these style suspensions enough times that I am pretty much fearless at this point. About 6 years ago I got tired of shops damaging our cars, and from then on do all my own work. These era Toyota's are very very user friendly cars to work on, pretty much anyone can do their own work with some good tools, patience, and enough research.
 

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I jacked it up and had a helper do the shifting. I can see the engine hop local front to rear. I get the reverse clunk louder when it goes from D to R. R to D is less noise. I can see only the front mount move. Rear seems good.

Crawled under and put some light on the rear mount from pass wheel well. Rear mount looks good mostly. Could not see under the rubber cover on the inner side. Might be just a bad front mount. I already replace the torque mount. Trans mount no movement.

As for the rear mount, it looks like there is only ample room on one side. The other side has the exhaust pipe with the o2 sensor. Just enough space for the mount bracket. So if were to be pressed out, it has to come out towards the wheel side.

I am also in Cali so if I have to I can take it out too then.
 
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