[s84kam]

Hey guys, I drained and filled my through the air bleed nozzle. Is this an effective way to clean out ALL of the fluid that in the piping radiator and engine?

I first used hooked up a water hose to my resevoir and another line to my air bleed, and I got 2 buckets of old pink fluid. ( i know i shouldn't be using tap water, but it was an effective to have the pressure push out all the old stuff back )

Second, i used pre mixed toyota coolant, using a hand pump to push fluid into the system and out of the air bleed. The system used almost 7.5 Liters of coolant.

Question - was this method safe and did it flush everything out of the system?

 

[camrylegend]

There are two engine coolant drain plugs...one in front and one in the back. The air bleed is used when pouring in new radiator fluid into the radiator. As soon as you see some radiator fluid leaking out of the bleeder screw...tighten it up and you're good to go.

Check out this previous DIY thread:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/122-2nd-generation-2008-2013/828482-diy-coolant-change-part-locations-comments-oh-thermostat-replacement.html

 

[mcgowaw]

i read the linked post and am wondering if my 06 i4 has either an engine bleeder or a radiator bleeder. don't remember seeing either.
thanks
tony

 

[hardtopte72]

Hey guys, I drained and filled my through the air bleed nozzle. Is this an effective way to clean out ALL of the fluid that in the piping radiator and engine?

I first used hooked up a water hose to my resevoir and another line to my air bleed, and I got 2 buckets of old pink fluid. ( i know i shouldn't be using tap water, but it was an effective to have the pressure push out all the old stuff back )

Second, i used pre mixed toyota coolant, using a hand pump to push fluid into the system and out of the air bleed. The system used almost 7.5 Liters of coolant.

Question - was this method safe and did it flush everything out of the system?

The problem would be if you still have tap water left in the system. If not, then yes it is fine to use that method. If not, not only do you possibly have reduced freeze and boil over protection, but you may leave hard deposits in the system.

Most likely you are fine, but in the future, I would just do a drain and fill. A flush is really only necessary in response to something like changing from Silicate to OAT or cleaning up a sludgy system.

 

[Kingdom934]

i read the linked post and am wondering if my 06 i4 has either an engine bleeder or a radiator bleeder. don't remember seeing either.
thanks
tony

I know the 1MZFE has two. One in the front which is easy and supposedly a one in the rear that I can't see. Not sure if the 2AZ has one, at lease I didn't see one yet.

The problem would be if you still have tap water left in the system. If not, then yes it is fine to use that method. If not, not only do you possibly have reduced freeze and boil over protection, but you may leave hard deposits in the system.

Most likely you are fine, but in the future, I would just do a drain and fill. A flush is really only necessary in response to something like changing from Silicate to OAT or cleaning up a sludgy system.

You could always just run with distill water for a day (or a few) providing you don't have extreme weather for that time and then drain/refill right after that. I've done that when converting from green/red/neglicted coolant (brown) to toyota red/pink.

I've not had an issue running just distill water to get rid of any left over tap water (depends how bad your tap water is), but I've done that to a 95 1MZFE, 98 1MZFE and my 04 2AZFE when I cleaned out of the green coolant. Not sure what other people opinion is though. Usually I just run distill water for a few days with daily drain and refills to get most of the old coolant stuff out. Of course when you do the final refill of red, I tend to put a lot more red to compensate for the left over distill inside the block.
This doesn't have to be done if your coolant system is regularly maintained with the same kind of coolant though.