Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
1991 2wd truck
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I plan on changing the timing chain and its related parts this afternoon{purchased the steel chain guides}should I adjust the valves before I get into changing the chain , or wait untill I have installed all the new parts ? Does it even matter which order I do them in, just wanted some claification thanks in advance for any responses:eek:
 

·
Soylent Green sales
rock crawler
Joined
·
12,801 Posts
... Does it even matter which order I do them in, just wanted some claification thanks in advance for any responses:eek:
The order you do what in?
Valves and TC, or the order you adjust the valves?

For the 1st, no, but I'd do the TC 1st
For the 2nd, yes.
 

·
YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
Joined
·
2,434 Posts
The valves should be adjusted hot, so before you start the tear down run the engine to operating temp and yank the cover and adjust the valves. then instead of putting it back together just keep going, that way you won't have to put the valve cover on and take it back of after it is warmed up.
 

·
Registered
1991 2wd truck
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks the more I think about it ,It makes more sense to adjust valves and keep tearing into it to avoid having to remove vavle cover again, I will post my findings when I get the timing chain cover off,the truck runs and sounds great ,the PO told me he did zero heavy maint. so as a precaution I am tearing it down to see how the guides are, I have been told that you can actually here it when the chain has excesive play, It will be interesting to see what I find thanks for the help ,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
The valves should be adjusted hot, so before you start the tear down run the engine to operating temp and yank the cover and adjust the valves. then instead of putting it back together just keep going, that way you won't have to put the valve cover on and take it back of after it is warmed up.
Depends....not if he needs his head worked on. If you have head work done then I would adjust your valves twice. I would adjust them once you have everything back together...then adjust them after you warm it back up. That is how I did it. I would rather KNOW that I took the time to pay attention to the valves twice then carelessly over tighten a valve and burn one.

I would adjust them twice...its your choice though. Taking the extra time to do it might be worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Oh...LABEL, LABEL, LABEL your bolts and where things go. I had this bite me in the ass multiple times. When you are guessing where bolts go things get really messy.
 

·
YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
Joined
·
2,434 Posts
keeping the bolts in order is easy if you take a piece of cardboard and cut slits in it in the pattern of how the bolts go in the front cover then stick the bolts through in order .
 

·
Registered
1991 2wd truck
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Hey thanks everyone for the replies, I used card board for the bolts kept everything in order. I dodged a bullet this time [for once] the chain guides were toast, and missing pieces, therefore I want to drop the oil pan. I've got all the bolts out of the pan but there is some steering linkage keeping me from dropping the pan. I took the cross member out (if that's what it's called....4 bolts) but the linkage still keeps me from dropping the pan. What is the best procedure for disassembling the steering linkage and remove the oil pan?
Dodging bullets in Nashville...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Doesn't the manual say to remove the front axle? I didn't remove mine for the reason that I didn't want to remove suspension parts. I hope that is not the case though with yours. I hope you can slide it out???
 

·
YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
Joined
·
2,434 Posts
Doesn't the manual say to remove the front axle? I didn't remove mine for the reason that I didn't want to remove suspension parts. I hope that is not the case though with yours. I hope you can slide it out???
2WD trucks don't have front axles.....

you can unbolt the idler arm on the right side of the frame and disconnect the steering stabilzer then drop it down just enough to get the pan out.

Really it's best to have the pan off when you put the timing cover back on anyhow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
oops...didn't read he had a two wheel drive...sorry!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top