[KC_YOTA]

Ok, so I finally got around to pulling the valve cover off to see if I have the infamous broken timing chain guide. I was having what sounded like valve clatter…so I figured I did with 150k on the clock. So I confirmed that the guide is broken on the driver side. Chain seems loose on that side as well because of not having a guide. My question is this..i have heard that I should replace the timing chain cover if there is damage to it from the chain rubbing against it. I can see bright polished spots where the chain has made contact with the cover. My question is…how much wear/damage is ok to get away with? The grooves don’t seem deep..very superfiscial?

I also adjusted the value clearance while I was in there (and the vehicle was hot). There seems to be more valve clatter now(after the adjustement). Is this due to the closer tolerance of the valves and the broken chain guides or did I do something incorrectly when I adjusted the valve clearance.

 

[texas12]

Why are continuing to drive it with a know broken TC guide. Fix it and then adjust valves.

 

[KC_YOTA]

Why are continuing to drive it with a know broken TC guide. Fix it and then adjust valves.

I have not been driving it. It's a spare vehicle and just purchased it a few months ago. Been slowly making improvements as the prior owner took less than great care of it.

Obviously the best thing to do would be to adjust the valve once I replace the timing chain set. But I just discovered the broken TC yesterday and made the adjustment to the valves since I was in there and was curious if it would help.

Anyone else?

 

[shortlid]

OK, so the tension being looser than spec on the chain since the guide is broken could cause the valve lash adjustment he did to be incorrect as well? Interesting, subscribing to the thread to see where this discussion goes!

Texas12, his post did not mention driving the truck with the broken guide? Seemed to me he was asking if the timing chain COVER could still be used or would have to be replaced ALONG WITH the timing chain and guides.

 

[79Corona]

For those that need a reminder, we like to keep it civil around here. Keep the tone helpful. Thank you.

 

[fourwd1]

... My question is this..i have heard that I should replace the timing chain cover if there is damage to it from the chain rubbing against it. I can see bright polished spots where the chain has made contact with the cover. My question is…how much wear/damage is ok to get away with? The grooves don’t seem deep..very superfiscial?

H'mm, since no one has actually answered your question, I'll try.
You won't be able to tell how deep the marks are until you have the TC cover off. If the wear damage is indeed superficial I wouldn't worry about it at all. If the chain has worn a groove half way through the wall (like a 1/8" groove in a 1/4" thick wall), then I'd start to worry. Over half way through I'd definetly replace.
That's my .02

 

[BrianJE]

I agree with fourwd1

 

[Dads09]

If the cover hasn't been damaged ( worn thru ) I would reuse it. The replacement I got seemed thinner and cheaper than the stock one.

 

[IronNam]

Engnbldr is going to be helpful for you. 150k? thats around the time i did mine, i think.
Just search around, if you have plenty of metric tools, you'll do fine. 19mm 1/2" socket and breaker bar, pb blaster, something to mark bolts etc, lots of time and stuff. thats just the basic little things.

The whole entire thing will be pretty easy to be honest, once that radiators off............. tons of space!

 

[shortlid]

Knowing what tools you will need is KEY!

 

[IronNam]

ALSO, before diving in even some more, MAKE SURE YOUR A/C PULLEY ADJUSTER and P/S PULLEY ADJUSTER both are loose and able to tighten and loosen!

mine was stuck so I ended up being A/C-less for about a year, then i decided to borrow a bolt extractor from ASG14 on the forums lol.



So a handy set of socket type bolt extractors just in case anything rounds off, 6pt 10,12,14,17,19mm sockets....high quality recommended. having the 10,12,14mm in wrenches ALSO HELPS ALOT.

I had these large pliers, adjustable jaws, those helped me hold the fan shaft as i loosened the tiny nuts (lol thats what she said)

Torque wrench for 3/8ths and 1/2" are both recommended. BORROW OR BUY ONE. you'll need it.

get plenty of cardboard. plug your bolts into it to remember where it came from, and then when you clean the bolts, the cleaner stuff wont eat into bags. cardboard


That's as far as I can think of for today!

 

[Jayota]

I had a little trouble getting the timing cover back into place without kinking the HG untill I removed the oil pump drive spline off of the crank.

 

[KC_YOTA]

ALSO, before diving in even some more, MAKE SURE YOUR A/C PULLEY ADJUSTER and P/S PULLEY ADJUSTER both are loose and able to tighten and loosen!

mine was stuck so I ended up being A/C-less for about a year, then i decided to borrow a bolt extractor from ASG14 on the forums lol.



So a handy set of socket type bolt extractors just in case anything rounds off, 6pt 10,12,14,17,19mm sockets....high quality recommended. having the 10,12,14mm in wrenches ALSO HELPS ALOT.

I had these large pliers, adjustable jaws, those helped me hold the fan shaft as i loosened the tiny nuts (lol thats what she said)

Torque wrench for 3/8ths and 1/2" are both recommended. BORROW OR BUY ONE. you'll need it.

get plenty of cardboard. plug your bolts into it to remember where it came from, and then when you clean the bolts, the cleaner stuff wont eat into bags. cardboard


That's as far as I can think of for today!

Thanks for all the great help guys! Some great advise/tips/tricks mentioned.

I think i might try and get it started this weekend. I will order the timing chain set with the steel guides from Engnbldr this week. I will follow your advice and not replace the cover unless it looks real bad once i get in there.

So I should remove the radiator to make the job easier? I don’t have power steering or A/C(wish I did) so it sounds like the job should be really easy!

 

[KC_YOTA]

I had a little trouble getting the timing cover back into place without kinking the HG untill I removed the oil pump drive spline off of the crank.

Thanks for the tip Jayota. I also forgot to ask you guys your opinion on replacing the oil pump or water pump while I am in there and have everything apart? If it should be replaced, any certain brand or type(high volume) I should be looking at?

 

[Jayota]

Oil pump should be fine, unless you have noticeably low oil pressure. I't's just two gears and you can test the tolerances with a feeler gauge when you open it up.. As for the water pump, if its getting up there in age replace it with an aisin pump. Best replacement you can get.

 

[shortlid]

…so I figured I did with 150k on the clock.

First post says he has 150,000 miles on the truck. Could that be a original water pump or likly was it replaced before reaching this many miles?