This is on the I4 model but the muffler will be similar in how it's hanged under the car.
Follow the Hitch manufacturer's Instructions with the one exception - detach the exhaust pipe from the hangers just behind the rear wheels in ADDITION to removing the rear hangers up near the rear bumper. NOTE: support the exhaust with blocking so as to minimize stress on the forward exhaust system.
BEFORE you install the hitch, I would recommend that you apply an adhesive plastic strip on the bumper cover where the hitch receiver snugs up to the cover. You can get a small roll of adhesive tape at an auto parts store (like AutoZone). This little feature will minimize or eliminate paint abrasion where the bumper and hitch touch.
Position the hitch under the car using a hydraulic jack (if you don't have one, a 2nd set of hands is a necessity)..... pay special attention on the left (driver's side) of the hitch as you position it to the car frame whereas the muffler exhaust and the hitch cross bar can interfere with each other as you attempt to correctly position the hitch up against the frame rails. Once in position, bolt-in the hitch to the frame rails using the 6 bolts and conical lock washers provided (do not tighten).
The hitch flanges may be a bit sprung (spread out vs a perfect 90 degree angle to the hitch bar). position the flange so you have easy insertion of the bolts. NOTE: DO NOT force the bolts if they are are difficult to turn in - IF they are difficult... move the hitch flange so they turn/tighten with your fingers - this will prevent thread damage/cross threading .
Tighten all bolts (no torque specs provided). Re-install the metal hanger just ahead of the rear bumper NOTE: a universal socket offset will help in tightening the metal hanger bracket bolts. Re-install all rubber hanger mounts.
Now install the wiring:
You need to remove the rear moulding, the Left and Right trays in the storage area. you don't have to remove the spare tire but it will make access easier.... NOTE: the black hold-down tabs are very brittle so ya need to take care in removing them by just pressing the button in the middle and and they should just release.
For access to the tail light wiring:
Remove the rear threshold molding. The rear threshold panel just pops off with first constant pulling pressure.
Partially remove the Left/Right side panels. 1st remove the cargo net hooks.
To remove the cargo hooks - simply press the button in the middle of hook and they will just pop off.
Starting down at the deck near the threshold panel area. pull firmly till the corner pops out and work up to the top of the panel. CAUTION! Be very careful with the panel whereas the plastic is thin and will fracture....
You just need as much of the panel pulled back so as to have access to the tail light wiring and the connectors. The tail light wiring has a connector is attached to the vehicle wiring harness connector. This mated pair is attached to the body frame via a clip. Slide the mated connectors slip off the clip. ROMOVE THIS CLIP - doing this is destructive to the OEM clip and renders it unusable. Undo the mated connector and insert the T-One connector per the instructions provided in the kit. The T-One connector is keyed so it only attaches the correct way. The newly mated tail light and T-One connector has a tab that allows you to re-attach/secure the pair to the body frame where the original OEM clip was attached. As instructed, drill a hole in the body frame and attach ground wire. I used the same panel the left tail light and T-One connector mated pair is attached.
Next: run the wiring across the rear threshold to the right side of vehicle. NOTE: I tucked the wiring into the rear body panel channel rather than leave it loose under the threshold cover). Follow same install procedures as the left side.
Install the wiring from the module to the battery:
Remove the plug at the bottom of the quarter panel well make a hole in the middle and insert about 10-12" of the black wire provided in the kit and reinstall the plug. install/run the black wire to the underside of vehicle making certain that you do not attach to any moving part or near heat sources or any part that could cause abrasion to the wire.
NOTE: there IS NOT a lot of excess wire so make the best possible effort to find the most direct path to the front of the vehicle. Once I cleared the left rear suspension area, I went over the fuel tank and then used the brake lines as an attachment point/path to the front of the vehicle. Once at the firewall area, I found a path up the firewall and over to the battery.
Slip and connect the yellow wire with in-line fuse to the battery terminal. I attached the yellow wire to the bolt on the battery connector - not the part that attaches directly to the battery terminal. I then positioned the wire to fit under the red terminal cover.
Recheck all wiring and connections before you insert the fuse provided in the kit. Tighten all tie wraps and begin reinstallation of panels, and trays.
For now, I left the flat-4 connector and wire loose in the tire well/storage area. I will run the wire and fat-4 connector out and under the vehicle to the hitch. I left the flat-4 connector and wire loose on our 6 RAV and it can cause abrasion to the rear bumper paint or clear paint protector.
SPECIAL NOTE: Is used many tie-wraps along the way because I live in the snow belt and am concerned about ice/slush accumulation and didn't want hanging weight anywhere on the wire under the vehicle.
As you traverse the underside of the vehicle and install the back wire, I left the tie wraps loose so I could adjust the wire as necessary. The few provided in the kit are insufficient for my purpose.
Also, because of my background, I applied heat shrink over all mechanical electrical connections. this, in my experience adds strength to the connections as well as weather proofing.
The T-One kit is a fool-proof kit and hitch are easy to install. Install one and you will be an expert... LOL. Seriously, if you take your time and plan your install with adequate tools/help, it will take about an hour or so..... much longer than the RAV4 I did - only because of the OEM muffler install/configuration.
Final recommendation: with the draw bar attached, notice the bumper saver attachment. I added this to save he bumper cover from potential damage when attaching trailer to the ball.
I apologize for not providing more pics of the hitch itself at this time - I have more on another memory still and will add later.
Good luck!
Bob
