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· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My A/C was feeling a little warmer than it should, I purchased a recharge kit and the gauge said way low. I'm at 100K and just had my engine rebuilt, anything is possible at this point. I put some gas in it and the pressure came up a little. I added a little more and it came up a little more but still way too low .. and yes I did compare to ambient temp.

The next shot of gas shut off the condensor fan and the air got warm, obviously an overcharge situation. The pressure still says low but I bled a little and the fans started and the air cooled. Next day it would not run, I blead more and it ran. Next day again, had to bleed again.

It's been working since ... until today when it got hot and it quit, probably high pressure again due to higher ambient. I shut the A/C off and then back on and it started

Can anyone tell me what Toyota recommends for high and low side pressure and what minimum discharge temp should be? Also, what pressure is high pressure cutout?
 

· Registered
15 Camry XSE V6
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247 Posts
what was wrong with engine that you had to rebuild? I ask as i have same car and is it 4 or the 6? i have 6 with almost 100k and no real problems cept for slight brake shake, but still on OEM pads, rotors and calipers.
 

· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
TAZCOOLS, it was rebuilt at 95K because of the excess oil burning issue. It's an I4 and it was drinking 1 quart of oil every 1200 miles. I had just bought the car when it was found to be "one of those engines". I keep seeing guys saying that everyone makes too much about the oil burning issue and the old "I worked for Toyota for X years and we only saw one of these", you can't prove that by me, mine drank it up.

I put a temperature probe in the vent and I see that at highway speed, sometimes I hit 34 degrees! And about 85 degrees ambient, the A/C shuts down and I have no cooling! I drove home from work yesterday with NO A/C, it was not a good ride. Leather seats + 90 degree interior = a miserable ride home! I know if I recoverd a little gas, it would start working again. It has to be overcharged, I put about 3/4 of a recharge can in it eventhough the gauge still said that it was low.
 

· Registered
15 Camry XSE V6
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247 Posts
Thanks, was goona get the 4 but now am glad i got the 6. BTW venting refrigerant is illegal, so I would not incriminate yourself.

Can I vent HFC-134a refrigerant?
It is illegal under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act to knowingly vent substitute refrigerants during any service, maintenance, repair or disposal of an appliance.

also:
Enforcement

EPA is performing random inspections, responding to tips, and pursuing potential cases against violators. Under the Act, EPA is authorized to assess fines of up to $37,500 per day for any violation of these regulations. Information on selected enforcement actions is available in the enforcement section.
If you suspect or witness unlawful releases of refrigerant or other violations of the Clean Air Act regulations, you can file a report easily and anonymously by visiting EPA's Office of Enforcement and Compliance Assurance website.


this does include DIY's, thats why it costs so much to have A/C fixed. Business, Tech and the equipment must be licensed. Government at work.


not preaching just trying to inform if people don't know.
 

· Registered
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46 Posts
Have any a/c components ever been physically disconnected? If so, and they were re-connected and system charged without pulling a vacuum on the system, you will have air in the system. You should also make sure your condensor is not clogged with bugs, etc. Also make sure your cabin air filter is not clogged. Any a/c system requires the proper charge, no air in the system, and proper air flow across both evaporator and condensor.
 

· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As far as I know, the system was never opened during service yet I'm sure that lines ect were disturbed. It worked OK when I got it, but I noticed that my wifes '06 XLE cooled much better, so does my Tacoma.

Today, ambient 82, discharge was 42 degrees for a long time, then it went to 37. It ran fine today, when it gets hotter later it will probably quit.
 

· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It works into the 86 degree ambient range now without shutting off, unfortunately it seems to take a really long time to get cold. Eventually I see temps down into the high 30's, that may take 1/2 hour. After about 5 miles I see 42 degrees and it stays there for quite some time. 42 is OK, but it stays at 55 for the first 5 miles.

According to this piece of junk gauge on the charge can, the pressure seems to hover around 35 which I realize is probably too high.
 

· Maven
Joined
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3,075 Posts
Using REAL GAUGES, correct the pressure to the factory spec and be done with it. Try to avoid wasting our time with your problems if you aren't willing to act on our suggestions.
 

· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
Joined
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
gdanaher, not everyone has immediate access to advanced equipment in this area. While I'm trying to digest your comment, I truly appreciate the good natured people who those want to advise. I'm a long time contributor to this site as well as the Tacoma site, I'm doing the best that I can with what I have. I do however have a friend who is an HVAC professional who I have enlisted to give me a hand as soon as we can both get time where we aren't working.

I however do not appreciate your comment about "Try to avoid wasting our time with your problems if you aren't willing to act on our suggestions". I'm sorry if asking for information and learning something is a bother to you.

This site has a history of helping all no mater what skill level and I know when I have reached the end of my own expertise, thus my tag "master of none". At this point, all I can say is have a nice day and thanks for being .... well .... you.

That being said, I will refuse to engage if further bantering with you on the subject. Thanks for your previous technical advice, I hope that it helps me to get to the correct parameters.
 

· Maven
Joined
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3,075 Posts
I'm not bantering with you. You have a serious problem and it needs serious attention. Air conditioning works under high pressures, and if these are not managed correctly, they can result in explosions, and that can result in death. You seem OK with using a five dollar can of refrigerant with a cheap gauge and wondering why it doesn't work. I'm sorry that there is no 'advanced equipment' in Pittsburgh. I never thought of your city as being 80 years behind the times, but you have given me new perspective.

I, too, am a long time contributor, and you will note that I have been thanked more than most for help and assistance. That being said, I am short with you. Consider the possibility that there might well be a reason for that. Have a great day, and leave the professional work to those who know what they are doing. Your wife would like to avoid attending your funeral.
 
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· Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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14,858 Posts
Like gdanher said it your gauges are probably nr reading correct.

Even if they are your initial problem is likely caused by a small leak in the system either from a rock hitting the condenser, failed o-ring, line, or evaporator.

Whenever you experience hotter temps those cans are never a good way to fix it. Reason being you don't ever really know true gauge pressures, and you don't know what is actually in the system (how much oil, air, refrigerant). What I recommend is to stop what you are doing and take the car to a dealer or well rated A/C shop. These cars take a new type of oil and using the wrong type could cost you your compressor and lots of heartache if a small repair is made by an A/C shop and if you keep pumping and removing freon (illegal anyway to not vacuum it out) you are risking more damage, more problems, and at the end of the day no A/C.

Hope everything works out.
 

· Registered
2010 Camry SE
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240 Posts
If your A/C mechanic friend is unable to end up helping you I would take it to the dealer or a good a/c shop. I'm pretty good with mechanics but I won't touch the a/c system since I don't have the proper equipment and knowledge for it. I'd hate to hear that you got hurt or fined.
 

· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
Joined
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATE: I took the car to the dealer. I was told that a proper charge was 1.2#, I was at 1.6#! They recovered and evacuated the entire system followed by a recharged. It works like a dream! 102 degrees today and I was COOOOOL! :D
 

· Maven
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3,075 Posts
Glad it all worked out for you. Too much refrigerant can certainly cause a shut down at higher pressures, and it creates an added lug on the compressor clutch and engine which in turn costs gas and money. Enjoy the cool drive.
 

· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
Joined
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
"creates an added lug on the compressor clutch and engine" .... absolutely, I noticed a marked difference in how smooth the engine runs when using the A/C.

So.... my $38 fix (recharge can) cost me $38 + $110, live and learn!
 

· J.O.A.T, Master of none
'14 Tacoma DC/LB
Joined
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2,822 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
it says 1.2 on the hood...
Even if it does, when reading only pressure, how would one know how much was in it? All I would see was pressure .. granted if over charged, pressure would be high. I'm thinking the only way to know how much was really in it was to recover and measure.
 
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