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I know the Weber carb conversion will eliminate a lot of the vacuum hoses but anybody got any performance numbers on the two? Hp? Torque? MPG?
I can get a remanufactured stock carb for $150 but found a complete Weber conversion kit for $270. Just wondering if it's worth the green.
 

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rock crawler
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Where did you find a rebuilt stock carb for $150 ?
 

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The Weber helps the performance of 20R engine some, but not the 22R according to the Toyota Pickup Owners Bible book. The Weber is also a downgrade if you are looking for good drivability under a wide range of outside temperature, engine temperature and altitude conditions.

Keep you existing stock carb too because you may eventually discover only something minor is likely wrong with it - tons of guys here wrongly assume they need a "rebuild" when only one of the diaphragms attached to the carb needs attention or something is out of whack with the automatic choke, or the diaphragm adjustment settings (e.g. throttle position diaphragm) are out of adjustment.
 

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My opinion. The the 32/36 Weber outperforms the stock carb hands down. It starts and runs like it's fuel injected. I had to enrichen the primary, it came with a 60 jet, and I had to go with a 70 to cure an off idle stumble...fuel mileage didnt change...I imagine it would be an even bigger improvement if you went with the aftermarket manifold and a non vacuum, centrifugal advance distributor, and some headers...it'll do like 115mph indicated on the flats. And the intake rush sound is pretty cool...like it might suck in a small bird or something.

it isnt affected by altitude or humidity, temp or anything...Here in Kansas it's -20 in the winter and 107 with 105% humidity in the summer, below zero it needs two cranks to start...I imagine it's rich up at the Eisenhower tunnel, but then hey, it's just a carb. The 38/38might be a bit much without cams and valves etc., overkill probably as a bolt on.

Never did like the stock carb...probably just a familiarity thing...but if it ran ok, I would have kept it.

Nobody beats the Italians when it comes to Carbs, which is why everyone copies them...except maybe Mikuni on their CV carbs for bikes

Though you gotta hand it to Aisin for getting a Carb to pass late 80's emmisions and do as well as it did.

People chuck the stock one because if they even know how a carb works they remember from old school, you turn a screw and this happens, you tighten the choke spring and THIS happens, once you need a digital ohmmeter and a micrometer or you have more than an accelerator pump diaphram to worry about you want to throw the stock carb as far as you can and either go weber or get an FI harness and do the FI swap.

In this day and age a carb is an exotic almost mystical thing..."you mean the gas goes in as a liquid and is magically transformed into a mist??" "In just the correct proportions and everything?...for any and ALL rpm ranges and load levels??"...there's somethig to be said about simplicity...The Weber has it, the stock one does not.

Anytime you open the hood and an oldtimer at a gas pump looks in and and says..."Ooooh a Weber"...in that worshipful tone that denotes that they are also thinking, "the carburetor of Ferrari"....you dont get that with the stock carb...with the stock carb you get the Indiana Jones line...they look at all the hoses and whisper..."Snakes, why did it have to be snakes".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weber_carburetor
 

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I gotta agree with Toyobeater. I just installed a 32/36 in my '90 just for it's simplicity. My stock carb was crapping out on me and just looking at it gave me a headache. My brother had a 32/36 he was gonna put in his truck so I took it an got got another one on ebay to replace his. Took all but 30 minutes to install and plug up vacuum lines, and a total of maybe 10 minutes to dial the carb in (two or three adjustments after driving it for a few days).

Truck runs great now and I've got no complaints except for that, after disconnecting the breather line that used to go to the stock air filter housing and attaching a breather filter, I found I've possibly got excessive blow-by (oil spraying out through the filter). Fuel economy has actually increased 4 mpg since the swap. I get close to 20 mpg now compared to 15-16 mpg befoe the swap (but that was with a crappy running stock carb).

I'm sure, like verlaryder stated, there was probably something simple wrong with the stock carb, but I didn't want to go through the trouble of troubleshooting it.
 

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heres my question? 32/36 or 34/34? no offroading here. just out right street performance and maybe down the road dirt track?
 

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Just my opinion, if it's a bolt on with nothing else, I'd go 32/36, if you are going to put headers on it, and get a good aftermarket manifold flow the heads and go with a centrifugal advance distributor and just generaly trick it out, the 34/34 would make it go faster. The 32/36 is a progressive carb, so that the primary flows well when not totally wound out. I think the 34/34 is both barrels on all the time and would be a waste on a dead stock motor.
 

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turns out the guy did put a port and polish job on the head and a big cam. so it goes pretty quick.

where would a get a good intake from?

i'm thinkin the 32/36 just cause it wouldn't be absurd

and yes im putting a header/exhaust. the bottom end of this motor has 337k on it, what do you think of that? think it can take it? it runs great and i dont hear a bunch of noise...
 

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Here's a good start.

http://www.toyheadauto.com/PerformancePages/Carburetor_Fuel_Components.html#New_Intake_Manifolds:_

From what you're telling me, I think you'd want to go with a 38DGAS and open plenum manifold...Now remember bigger doesnt always mean better...it's just that you are talking about flat out top end stuff, in which case it is better to go bigger, if you have the rest lined out, especially distributor advance and stuff like that. You may end up with something that only responds well at sky high revs...and dont expect t bolt something like that on and have it be ideal right off the bat...it takes tuning for what you want to achieve...or get the dual port manifold and the 32/36 and have real good all around performance.

Then there's this, The Offy 390cfm 4bbl (vacuum secondaries) on the dual port...

http://www.offyparts.com/product_in...id/97?osCsid=a95b88a539cd881b907fe70efc1417fa

My experiance with this was a '74 2.0 Capri OHC which did nicely with it...balanced low end midrange and top end.
 

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Guåhan
2010 Reg Cab Tacoma
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My opinion. The the 32/36 Weber outperforms the stock carb hands down. It starts and runs like it's fuel injected. I had to enrichen the primary, it came with a 60 jet, and I had to go with a 70 to cure an off idle stumble...fuel mileage didnt change...I imagine it would be an even bigger improvement if you went with the aftermarket manifold and a non vacuum, centrifugal advance distributor, and some headers...it'll do like 115mph indicated on the flats. And the intake rush sound is pretty cool...like it might suck in a small bird or something.

it isnt affected by altitude or humidity, temp or anything...Here in Kansas it's -20 in the winter and 107 with 105% humidity in the summer, below zero it needs two cranks to start...I imagine it's rich up at the Eisenhower tunnel, but then hey, it's just a carb. The 38/38might be a bit much without cams and valves etc., overkill probably as a bolt on.

Never did like the stock carb...probably just a familiarity thing...but if it ran ok, I would have kept it.

Nobody beats the Italians when it comes to Carbs, which is why everyone copies them...except maybe Mikuni on their CV carbs for bikes

Though you gotta hand it to Aisin for getting a Carb to pass late 80's emmisions and do as well as it did.

People chuck the stock one because if they even know how a carb works they remember from old school, you turn a screw and this happens, you tighten the choke spring and THIS happens, once you need a digital ohmmeter and a micrometer or you have more than an accelerator pump diaphram to worry about you want to throw the stock carb as far as you can and either go weber or get an FI harness and do the FI swap.

In this day and age a carb is an exotic almost mystical thing..."you mean the gas goes in as a liquid and is magically transformed into a mist??" "In just the correct proportions and everything?...for any and ALL rpm ranges and load levels??"...there's somethig to be said about simplicity...The Weber has it, the stock one does not.

Anytime you open the hood and an oldtimer at a gas pump looks in and and says..."Ooooh a Weber"...in that worshipful tone that denotes that they are also thinking, "the carburetor of Ferrari"....you dont get that with the stock carb...with the stock carb you get the Indiana Jones line...they look at all the hoses and whisper..."Snakes, why did it have to be snakes".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weber_carburetor
dont mean to thread jack, but did you get that carb from LC? theres two sets one with and intake mani and one with out. if i get the one with out does it bolt right up to my stock intake mani?

any mods need to be done to run it or is it a plug and play setup?
how does it run? i have a 280 comp cam, msd 6al, headers and exhaust
 

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You can buy the carb by itself, it has an adaptor with it it's all bolt on really easy. I had to go up to a 70 idle jet and that ran well. My car has a zillion miles on it which is probably why it needed to go richer.

If you buy the manifold for it, it's made for the the carb so there's no adaptor. I'd go that route if I were you because from what your saying, you want to hot rod it a bit. when /if you buy it tell them what you have in it and what you intend to do with it, street, race, hill climb, what have you and they will jet it accordingly. Doesnt mean you wont have to experiment with jetting though, so be aware you may have to fiddle with it.

I'd recommend getting the manifold carb combo for you, as the stock one with an adaptor is fine for replacement with intent to just keep it running etc, the stock manifold is restrictive and wont really keep up with the non stock cam etc that your using. It'll work fine but you wont really maximize your potential.

I use my truck as a third vehicle, parts runner, honey wants to do a garden project type stuff so I just got the carb.

I bought it off Redline.
 

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Guåhan
2010 Reg Cab Tacoma
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whats the jetting on it now? for you you had to put a 70 on?

thanks for your help and opinion. i will do some more research and saving
 

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it'll do like 115mph indicated on the flats. And the intake rush sound is pretty cool...like it might suck in a small bird or something
:licklips:

Ever ride/ drive in a 180hp+ vw bug? Dual weber 48IDA's...O sweet lord, they are louder than the strait pipes.

I often wondered, a progressive 32/36, or a 38?
 

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Guåhan
2010 Reg Cab Tacoma
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99 Posts
so i really want to get this carb, the 32/36 from lc.
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebG...UniqueID=EA7B550E-6B1B-41FF-9D1A-8136AFD3FFDD

my question is will my stock throttle cable work with it? ive noticed it comes with a throttle linkage, how do i adapt my cable to it? any body with pics with a 32/36 installed? id like to see how everything looks it would help me when i get to installing it
thanks in advance
 
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