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2009HL, 1997 T4R
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3 Posts
The absolute bare minimum 10% of the trailer weight and at least 15% if you drive over 55mph. 10% is how Caravans go in Europe but they aren't allowed to drive fast when towing. Their RVs are built differently too but they never go over 55. Over here we think that our towing laws are BS because you see a little hatchback pulling an RV over there. What you don't see is it's 35 miles an hour the whole trip.
 

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2010 Camry, 2010 Highlander
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64 Posts
If you're planning to use a weight distribution hitch system on these unibody Highlanders, I'd recommend the following.
  • Install a hitch with the highest capacity tongue weight rating. I like the Draw Tite Model 75726, since it's rated for 750 lb tongue weight and has 9 total bolts attaching it to the vehicle, verses 6 or 7 bolts for other hitch brands. The Draw Tite also has vertical mounting plates on both sides of the hitch for extra reinforcement and other brands only have these on 1 side.
  • Measure your actual tongue weight. You can use a common bathroom scale and some lumber, if the expected weight will be more than the scale capacity. eTrailer.com has good instructions here for using a bathroom scale, especially if the tongue weight will exceed the capacity of the bathroom scale. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx
  • Install a weight distribution system with the rating as close to the tongue weight as possible. Using too stiff of weight distribution system will put excessive stress on the vehicle and hitch.
I have the draw tite. I like the extra attachment points and the fact that it is the only model I could find that is rated for weight distribution. The one downside for all of the available hitches is that the attachment bolts have fairly low torque specs (42 ft-lbs for the draw tite). I've had to check and re-torque a few times.
 

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