God Damn this thing was Ok until you get to the removal oil Filter removing on this car is not easy I find due to the close proximity of the exhaust manifold in close proximity I got it done but i wasted almost an hour on the filter about half pondering how to get to it the best way but only being able to do a 1/4 turn with the one i have sucked.next plan is the plugs any one know how to get the rubber cover off the top of the 1mzfe (gen4- non vvti)
Well Did my First Self Oil Change
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Joined
·
374 Posts
No offense, but if you had that much trouble with an oil change, maybe you should take the car to a shop for the spark plugs. On the V6, unless you have really skinny arms (one of the guys i've worked with could do this, I swear), changing the rear 3 spark plugs can be difficult. You have to remove the intake plenum, which means you have to get a new gasket for when you're done. It's not all that difficult, but it can take a few hours if you're figuring it out and don't want to mess anything up.
And I know, the filters on the V6 can be hard unless you're used to it. I always take them off from the top with some oil filter pliers.
And I know, the filters on the V6 can be hard unless you're used to it. I always take them off from the top with some oil filter pliers.
i think i should have had it lower on the stands might have helped too, back to my question how do i get the plastic xocer off on the gen 4 i have tried allen keys and all the ones i have are either too big or small
As Kitto states use oil filter wrench that attaches on top of the filter. Place an oil pan under the car to catch any leaks; many auto parts stores accept used oil.
A TN Camry history search on rear spark plug changing should turn up many suggestions for doing this job.
A TN Camry history search on rear spark plug changing should turn up many suggestions for doing this job.
The dealer here charges about $40, although they have quick lube places where I brought my '94 Camry that do it for $18.95.
got the plugs done now just got to figure out a issue where the motor starts rev's to 3000 and then died, i hoping its a Vac leak or the rain from Last night(about 88mm or 3.5 inchs). Me and a friend are gonna take a look at it, i worked on the car till close to midnight and was tired and gave up
any idea's, before i tear the whole top end off again
any idea's, before i tear the whole top end off again
sounds like a possible vacuum leak if you took the intake plenum and throttlebody off to do the rear plugs
or the iac was disconnected, etc. etc. check all your plugs first, and then vacuum leaks
or the iac was disconnected, etc. etc. check all your plugs first, and then vacuum leaks
all are connected to toyota standards(way supposed to be when i start it sounds like its getting no fuel and when you turn to start you do not hear the pump running
If worse becomes me i'll just replace the motor
any ideas?
well, if you think that the pump isn't running, how would replacing the motor help at all?
I'd start checking the fuses and relays for the fuel system then
I'd start checking the fuses and relays for the fuel system then
I just did my first oil change on the '99 V-6 Camry. This is my third Toyota and believe that the engineers simply do not care about oil filter servicing.
'84 4x4 Pickup, very hard to reach from above or below. Heater and A/C hoses in the way. Oil drips on front axle. No way for a drip pan to catch it all.
'05 Tundra 4x4, extra hour to remove, replace skid plate, if you want to remove it from below. I remove it from above, long reach. impossible to avoid spilled oil.
'99 Camry V-6, not hard from above, simply reach around the exhaust manifold with a normal strap-type filter wrench. The mounting angle and location guarantees that oil runs down engine mount and drips off frame crossmember, that is my gripe.
Total cost is cheap, ProLine filter, identical to Denso filter from the dealer, $2.79, five quarts of Chevron Supreme dino oil on sale, $8.50, the satisfaction of a job well done, priceless.
It does not have to be this way. Only one front wheel drive Ford (Fiesta) had a bad filter location, back of engine above cat converter. Every other car/truck, Chevy, Dodge, Ford I have owned made it easy to reach from below. The BMW has the filter right on top of the engine and designed so you dont spill a drop.
'84 4x4 Pickup, very hard to reach from above or below. Heater and A/C hoses in the way. Oil drips on front axle. No way for a drip pan to catch it all.
'05 Tundra 4x4, extra hour to remove, replace skid plate, if you want to remove it from below. I remove it from above, long reach. impossible to avoid spilled oil.
'99 Camry V-6, not hard from above, simply reach around the exhaust manifold with a normal strap-type filter wrench. The mounting angle and location guarantees that oil runs down engine mount and drips off frame crossmember, that is my gripe.
Total cost is cheap, ProLine filter, identical to Denso filter from the dealer, $2.79, five quarts of Chevron Supreme dino oil on sale, $8.50, the satisfaction of a job well done, priceless.
It does not have to be this way. Only one front wheel drive Ford (Fiesta) had a bad filter location, back of engine above cat converter. Every other car/truck, Chevy, Dodge, Ford I have owned made it easy to reach from below. The BMW has the filter right on top of the engine and designed so you dont spill a drop.
Joined
·
320 Posts
Oil filter--I tend to lay a rag over my forearm to avoid exhaust heat when reaching in there, I agree that the cup wrench is the only way to go, hardly anywhere to swing the band or the jaw style. I keep thinking about getting one of those kevlar forearm shields, they look expensive tho.
Not uncommon to have probs with the first OF, don't be discouraged. On my 2nd OC on a Ford Escort, I had to call AAA to tow the car to a local garage--and since then I've gone on to be a professional mechanic and then retired from that to go back to school and do computers! I had (on the advice of a book) gone to the desperation move of spearing the filter with a screw driver to turn it (didn't work), then tried to duct tape it back up to drive to a garage (wouldn't you know, oil pressure is about the only thing duct tape isn't strong enough to stop!)
Once you're the one doing the O.C.s you only have yourself to curse if you have trouble getting the OF off--don't forget the coating on the O-ring. Also be careful of the dreaded "dual o-ring application" as we used to call it at Brady's Citgo in College Park. Stan and I each had one of those in our two years working there.
Not uncommon to have probs with the first OF, don't be discouraged. On my 2nd OC on a Ford Escort, I had to call AAA to tow the car to a local garage--and since then I've gone on to be a professional mechanic and then retired from that to go back to school and do computers! I had (on the advice of a book) gone to the desperation move of spearing the filter with a screw driver to turn it (didn't work), then tried to duct tape it back up to drive to a garage (wouldn't you know, oil pressure is about the only thing duct tape isn't strong enough to stop!)
Once you're the one doing the O.C.s you only have yourself to curse if you have trouble getting the OF off--don't forget the coating on the O-ring. Also be careful of the dreaded "dual o-ring application" as we used to call it at Brady's Citgo in College Park. Stan and I each had one of those in our two years working there.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
