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it's your turn...please explain to me why my numbers are off.
LOL The Toyota Configurator doesnt use the right money factor!!!

I work for the company, you think I don't know how to run a lease? :lol:

That thing is designed to get your expectations up, so when you come in we won't be beaten to a pulp on the car. It uses the non incentivised MF which is like .002 when in reality, the MF is usually .00001 sometimes with bonus cash as well. You are also not able to adjust the Cap cost, so you can only pay MSRP.
 

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Straight from the lease calculators fine print.....

For purposes of calculating your monthly payment, the estimated Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) was used as the sales price of the vehicle for a financed purchase, and the gross capitalized cost for a lease. Many variables, including current market conditions, your credit history, and down payment or capitalized cost reduction, will affect your monthly payment and other terms. See your Toyota dealer for actual pricing, annual percentage rate (APR), monthly payment and other terms and special offers
 

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ummm...what's your point??
:eek: It says right there, prices based on MSRP and terms vary with market conditions. See dealer for ACTUAL pricing. That's where I come in, check the current incentives (which is 2.9% APR not 3.7 they are using, and Mf of .000125 not .0022 they are using) and give the customer an ACTUAL price.

At this moment (incentives are not great) a zero down lease would be in the ballpark of $239 while a 60 month finance would be about $405 @2.9.

Give it a month or two and the lease will drop, and 0% will be available.....

So you'll be looking at ~$180 to lease and ~ $360 to buy.
 

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:eek: It says right there, prices based on MSRP and terms vary with market conditions. See dealer for ACTUAL pricing. That's where I come in, check the current incentives (which is 2.9% APR not 3.7 they are using, and Mf of .000125 not .0022 they are using) and give the customer an ACTUAL price.

At this moment (incentives are not great) a zero down lease would be in the ballpark of $239 while a 60 month finance would be about $405 @2.9.

Give it a month or two and the lease will drop, and 0% will be available.....

So you'll be looking at ~$180 to lease and ~ $360 to buy.
The ACTUAL price paid by a customer, whether its lease or buy, is the same so price negotiation plays no part in comparing a lease/buy decision. You simply sell the car to the leasing company when a customer agrees to lease. And the money factor is determined by the leasing company, not you. Also, who offers a lease at 0.30% APR (.000125 x 2400) as you claim?

My analysis used MSRP because that's available. Any deals on price doesn't really affect the difference in the lease/buy scenario. That is, both payments decrease accordingly.

Same result in the end though...you're always better off financially by buying and holding on to car long-term.
 

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BeerSteakTxas
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Please feel free to weigh in on the above
:)
Go and and catch some “schmuck” on the lot and sell him your theory.
We had argument once and all you was doing playing with numbers.
trade in? down payment? maintenance 1-2K a year? who are you kidding?
Your numbers way off of real life.
p.s. you are one son of a gun salesman, get me your GM email, I’ll tell him how good you are, he’ll be proud of you :).
 

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The ACTUAL price paid by a customer, whether its lease or buy, is the same so price negotiation plays no part in comparing a lease/buy decision. You simply sell the car to the leasing company when a customer agrees to lease. And the money factor is determined by the leasing company, not you. Also, who offers a lease at 0.30% APR (.000125 x 2400) as you claim?

My analysis used MSRP because that's available. Any deals on price doesn't really affect the difference in the lease/buy scenario. That is, both payments decrease accordingly.

Same result in the end though...you're always better off financially by buying and holding on to car long-term.

Toyota offers the lease at that special rate from time to time, in fact it was less than that for from January to August this year, it will be back there soon.

The "deals on price" can and often do effect leasing more than buying, since "lease cash" is something Toyota offers on many vehicles which do not have a "customer cash" rebate.

The Standard MF equates to over 7% APR, that's why the lease calculator you used comes out with a rediculous payment, which you are comparing to 3.7% on a purchase.
 

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:)
Go and and catch some “schmuck” on the lot and sell him your theory.
We had argument once and all you was doing playing with numbers.
trade in? down payment? maintenance 1-2K a year? who are you kidding?
Your numbers way off of real life.
p.s. you are one son of a gun salesman, get me your GM email, I’ll tell him how good you are, he’ll be proud of you :).

First of all, nobody on the lot is a "schmuck". I don't treat anyone like that, this isn't 1982.

Second, a 10 year old car with 150k miles on it could easily rack up that kind of repair cost. Timing belt/WP one year, tires and brakes the next, 02 sensors/cat converter the following year.....ect. This is assuming you don't have the time/space to do things yourself.

3rd, GM emails kick back to my account :lol:

Also, I don't remember an argument....I remember you told me something about a Base Camry and it ended up being an LE so your friend got 800 more for it
 

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I always like to have a newer car. Leasing has never really been my thing. I’d rather buy a car outright and keep it for 2-3 years and then trade it in whenever I get the itch, as opposed to leasing, where I have to keep the car for a certain period of time. Part of my reasoning for trading in every couple of years is that I don’t have to pay any repair costs with an older car (tires, brakes, etc). I’ve always owned Hondas and Toyotas, so when I finally do decide to trade in, I always get an excellent trade in amount. I usually never settle for paying anything more than invoice on the new car, also.

The main reasons I traded in my 2008 Highlander for a 2011 Highlander is because I like the facelift of the 2011. Also, I was getting due for a tire replacement, which would have cost somewhere around $1000. I’m sure brakes wouldn’t have been too far behind either. Instead of spending the money on tires and brakes, I applied that money towards the new car. I feel happy because I have the updated style of the 2011, and also because I won’t have to worry about paying any extra money on maintenance/repairs.

I’ve been viewing this 2012 Camry forum for a while now, because I’m thinking of trading in my 2010 Civic LX for a Camry SE. So MAToyotaSales, you may be hearing from me soon, lol.
 

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The Standard MF equates to over 7% APR, that's why the lease calculator you used comes out with a rediculous payment, which you are comparing to 3.7% on a purchase.
I'm not going to bicker about rates at this point. The savings spread is so insignificant that it doesn't alter my conclusion.

p.s. I love driving around knowing that I've had a zero car payment for a number of years and that is money in the bank!
 

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I'm not going to bicker about rates at this point. The savings spread is so significant that it doesn't alter my conclusion.

p.s. I love driving around knowing that I've had a zero car payment for a number of years and that is money in the bank!
Yes let's not bicker. I've decided to buy a 1990 Tercel and just drive it since there will be no repairs apparently :lol:
 

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BeerSteakTxas
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Second, a 10 year old car with 150k miles on it could easily rack up that kind of repair cost. Timing belt/WP one year, tires and brakes the next, 02 sensors/cat converter the following year.....ect. This is assuming you don't have the time/space to do things yourself.

3rd, GM emails kick back to my account :lol:

Also, I don't remember an argument....I remember you told me something about a Base Camry and it ended up being an LE so your friend got 800 more for it
:).
you hear what you want to hear - sales man nature.
and still you couldn't touch trade difference neither on my or my friend’s car.
Good luck in making another "more than 60-70K" this year. :).
 

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:).
you hear what you want to hear - sales man nature.
and still you couldn't touch trade difference neither on my or my friend’s car.
Good luck in making another "more than 60-70K" this year. :).

If I recall correctly he wanted 800 more for the trade, and to use 4 of those coupons. If I knew it was an Le we would have been there.

Dealers dont have magical numbers that come from nowhere, if one dealer can do it so can the other unless there is a mistake made.

I've already eclipsed those numbers if you care.
 

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Second, a 10 year old car with 150k miles on it could easily rack up that kind of repair cost. Timing belt/WP one year, tires and brakes the next, 02 sensors/cat converter the following year.....ect. This is assuming you don't have the time/space to do things yourself.
The timing belt change interval is 90k, not every other year, in fact I went 130k on the original which looked new when it was replaced. I still have the original brake rotors on my 99, second set of pads, one O2 sensor replaced, other then that, just normal maintenance and no car payments. Same deal with all our other cars.
 

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BeerSteakTxas
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If I recall correctly he wanted 800 more for the trade, and to use 4 of those coupons. If I knew it was an Le we would have been there.

Dealers dont have magical numbers that come from nowhere, if one dealer can do it so can the other unless there is a mistake made.

I've already eclipsed those numbers if you care.
right...

http://retryquit.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/image11.jpg
 

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My got her Camry SE literally 4 hrs ago
She got base model with just only 8 way seat, heated seats, wheel locks, mats and bumper applique. Nothing else.
She LOVEs it!
I used Edmunds.com to find the best deal and I was VERY happy with the price. I took 3 days to negotite the best deal with multiple dealers and we got it for $21390
Dealer fee $239.50
NJ tire fee $7.50
4 year registration was $299
plus of course tax.
Now since my wife is a twitter fan she was tweeting about that she is getting new toyota and whe is getting $1000 debit card from Toyota! so that brings down final price to $20390. Not bad! :thumbsup:

 
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