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Raybestos EHTs cost exactly the same as Akebono's, anyone saying they're better?
Aren't DOT friction codes semi arbitrary and assigned by the company, like tire wear codes ?
 

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Raybestos EHTs cost exactly the same as Akebono's, anyone saying they're better?
Aren't DOT friction codes semi arbitrary and assigned by the company, like tire wear codes ?
It's a DOT code and not arbitrary and nothing like tire wear codes.
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
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FWIW, I used Centric ceramic pads and Centric rotors. Cheap and effective. The car is not my "ride" and not my "whip". It's just plain transportation and for that purpose these parts serve admirably.
 

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My plain transportation saved my life more than once. If I had lesser brakes or tires, I would've joined a couple major highway pileups at a rate of speed that would yield an unknown outcome. Its best to watch the crashes from the rear view mirror. Cheap or OE might not have been too effective.

When compared to Akebonos, my Raybestos EHT's were always 40% cheaper for full front/rear pad sets. $60 for a full set of EHT that would cost $100 for AkebonerProacts.
Front only pads were $50 for the Ake and $35 for the EHTs on another car. Not sure why they cost you the same but the Raybestos price/performance ratio seems excellent.

I've replaced a ton of centric warped rotors. I don't think their quality is on par with Wagner or Raybestos, even though I'd wager the castings probably come from the same prison child labor foundry in asia. I won't use centric rotors anymore. I don't have an issue with Stoptech Ceramic and Sport pads since both seem to be an upgrade from OE, as are many of the store branded pads from Autozone, AdvanceAuto, Carquest, and OreillyAutoparts. The OE/Advics rotors seem to be excellent. I've also used Fremax/Napa rotors without any issues. If you have money to burn, the EBC pads are a great upgrade, but I don't use or recommend the Greens... either get the Reds, Yellows, copper free ExtraDuty, or Ultimax... Once I priced the ExtraDuty pads for the SUV, I decided to skip them. Hawk are still around. Haven't seen any big advertising for them like the ol' days. Same can be said about Carbotech, Porterfield, PerformanceFriction...... They make excellent pads but seem to limit their production to various automakers and are leaving out plenty of the newer cars. Could be that too many drivers want quiet and dustfree and some of the best brakes will make a little noise and produce some dust. God only knows why some consumers only want silent, dust free, mushy pedal, and lasting forever pads that just don't work too well.

No one remembers what happened to SatisfiedBrakes? A little fraud with their brake pad formulas caused their bankruptcy.
 

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This is the only brake pad advice you need.

 
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In my old shop we turned every rotor and drum, even new ones were checked and made perfect. I even turned the adapters on the lathe, and nick in the mating surfaces would waste rotors if you did not stay on top of it.

If there are some miles on the system, you also need to carefully extend the pistons and remove any debris build up so they retract properly for least drag. Rotors also need to be close to the same thickness, replace one while reusing the other at minimum thickness can create pulling issues.

My most memorable example of dragging calipers was being branded by a rotor on my callous pad just below the fingers when i grabbed a rotor and it left "min dia 10.5 mm" on the callouses that were so thick it never blistered.

I can't tell you what pads are on my Echo. they came with the car, have passed inspection and work fine. My driving style basically avoids brake applications and their energy wastage like the plague.
 

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Here is a picture of a ProAct next to an EHT pad...

The EHT has more media from less chamfer space wasted and by filling more available space around the backing plate.

I have never felt the need for chamfer yet some brands overchamfer too often... I guess it saves them some media when a mixing batch makes more pads.
 

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I forget what brand I get at the local parts store but I get the semi-metallic pads. I don't have any excessive dust but I get a minor squeal now and then at very slow speeds. I'm still on the original rotors which I have never turned during my ownership between 113,000 miles when I bought it and the current 461,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed a minor braking unevenness so there is a little warp on at least one rotor.
 

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Also check to make sure the anchor pins move freely and the piston can be retracted easily. After 10 years I usually rebuild the caliper, maybe like $5 parts each side, caliper seal, dust boot, and anchor pin boots. Just make sure to use a JIS K2228 grease, not one of those Permatex green, purple or Sil-glyde (looks like without silicone but with up to 60% castor oil, what a joke).

I forget what brand I get at the local parts store but I get the semi-metallic pads. I don't have any excessive dust but I get a minor squeal now and then at very slow speeds. I'm still on the original rotors which I have never turned during my ownership between 113,000 miles when I bought it and the current 461,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed a minor braking unevenness so there is a little warp on at least one rotor.
 

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here is an interesting comparison done by a cop org

https://www.justnet.org/pdf/evaluationbrakepads2000.pdf

This represents one of the most controlled studies I've found.

The EE rated Hawkheads seem better than the FF rated Raybestos cold and pretty close warm and hot. There does not seem to be a good P value on the correlation between DOT codes and performance, IMHO.

Of course Car and Driver liked the EBCs

Orange = Mazda
Green = Hawk HPS
Light Blue = EBC Yellowstuff
Dark Blue = Hawk HP Plus


on their Miata, odd on the 100 mph panic stop..no ABS? Cops saw almost zero difference with ABS from 70 mph
 
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